Applying decals


FM C liner

FM C liner

Member
Hey guys,
I just purchased a undecorated steam locomotive, I picked up some decals for it and I heve a few questions about it. I noted that I need a gloss coat to apply the decals, does that mean I need to spray the hole locomotive or jusy the parts that get decals? What brand of gloss should I use? I heard some on youtube talking about using acrylic floor finish for it. I know I need to get some decal setting solution, I see Micro set and Micro sol,does that work well? Sorry for the dumb questions, I just don't want to screw this all up. Any help you can give would be great.

Thanks
Scott
 
Where did you get the decals? I'm looking for some myself. Sorry no help on applying, but I'll be reading that part with interest.
 
I've had success NOT applying to a glossy surface.

I just slide the decal to the model, then apply Solvaset. After 24 hours or so, an application of Dulcote and its good to go.

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Thanks GP22, the locomotive has a matte finish to it, so it sounds like I should be in good shape. Thanks for the info.

Scott
 
The surface doesn't have to be gloss, but it should be smooth and at least have a bit of sheen to it. You WILL get better results if it IS gloss, but it's not mandatory. Decal film has a gloss finish to it. If you put it on a non-gloss surface, you now have to try to match the finish with an overcoat. Flat finish over the gloss of the decal film and the matte finish of the paint may not always end up the same. The gloss decal film will make a matte finish look darker, which can be difficult to hide after the fact.

Cut out your decal and place it in a puddle of water or shallow dish. Let it stay soaking until it almost comes off the paper on its own. If you try to take it off the paper before it's ready, the gum on the paper surface won't be fully dissolved and may leave a haze on the back of the decal. Now, apply a good sized puddle of Micro-Set (blue bottle) on the surface where the decal is to be applied. Slide the decal off the paper into this puddle on your model and roughly position it. Just let it set for about five minutes. The film will wrinkle slightly, but it's not dissolving.

At this point, take a Kleenex and wick off the excess liquid from under the decal. Now you can do your final positioning of your decal as it's not floating in the solution. Carefully pat the decal with your Kleenex so it is almost dry, but just damp. Now take your Micro-Sol (red bottle) and brush a thin wet coat (don't flood it) over the decal and along the edges. With the Micro-Set still slightly damp, it will also help draw the Micro-Sol under the decal.

Here's the important part .... at this point, leave it alone and let it work. The Micro-Sol dissolves the decal film to a certain extent and any attempt to move or adjust the decal will damage it. Just let it be to dry on its own. Once dry, inspect the decal for any air bubbles. Carefully slit any bubbles (after its dry) with a sharp blade and apply another spot of Micro-Sol. Repeat as necessary until it all lays flat.

Mark.
 
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Mark,
Thanks for the information, I just want to make sure it looks goos when it is done. You sound like you have done this a few times, I will get some of the solutions needed and give it a shot. Thanks again for your help.
Scott
 
Only about 40+ years worth of doing this Scott ! ;)

FWIW - I use the Walthers Solvaset instead of the Microscale Micro-Sol. It's a bit stronger and hence a bit fussier to work with. Champ decals have a bit thicker decal film, so you might find the Walthers Solvaset to be helpful in getting them to snuggle down better.

Mark.
 
the gloss helps to prevent silvering. you could just gloss the area to be decaled. i have also had luck on a non glossed surface. you can also take future floor polish and brush it onto the area right before the decal is applied, and lay the decal on top of it. kind of one of those more than one way to skin a cat type of things.
 
Thanks Mark, I just ordered the microscale stuff before I got on here, hopefully it will work well. Appreciate your help.

Scott
 
wright2626,
I heard about the floor finish somewhere, I have some acrylic floor finish here, maybe I will practice on something first. Thanks for the help.

Scott
 
Well I put the decals on the locomotive, so I thought I would put a few pics of how it turned out. I think it came out ok, not perfect but I have them on and have some experience with this now. Thanks for all the help.

Scott

decal1.jpgdecal3.jpgdecal5.jpg
 
One tip with wet decals. a minute after applying all the micro sol, If you roll a cotton swab over the decal (carefully) it will greatly reduce any tiny air bubbles under the skin.

If I can find dry transfers in the same decal set I prefer them to wet decals. I never got perfect results with wet decals on anything other than a glossy top coat. I really hate that extra step of spraying gloss and waiting an extra day for that coat to cure - plus it looks like a glazed donut until you respray a flat finish coat. The only negative with dry transfers is that you only get one chance to get the thing square and where it accurately belongs. If it's tilted one degree it will be noticeable. Whereas a wet decal can be teased into the correct position.
 
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Thanks Charles, I will take all the help I can get. I think they came out pretty good for my first time. I will continue to practice so I can improve.

Scott
 
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