Air bubbles in my decals


ICG/SOU

ICG/SOU

HO & O (3-rail) trainman
I had the issue earlier and now that I've begun doing decals again, I'm having issues with air bubbles.

My technique is that I put some Micro Set on the model, then slide the decal onto the surface. After positioning the decal, I blot away the excess liquid with a paper towel, and let set. I apply Micro Set after a few minutes. No bubbles, and the decal adheres to the model.

Later I use Micro Sol (I've also used Solvaset in the past) to make the decal set nicely. After the Micro Sol as dried, I notice that now, I have air bubbles. Many times on small decals I end up poking a small hole in the decal and reapply Micro Sol and the decal will usually dry and lay flat. With big decals (heralds), I sometimes have to use a stippling brush and poke holes while there is Micro Sol on the decal in order for the bubbles to go away completely.

I figure there is something wrong with my technique. What am I doing wrong?

Thanks.
 
Are you applying your decals to a glossy surface? Bubbles or silvering is usually a result of a non glossy surface.
 
I get bubbles too, even with a glossy surface. I usually just prick them with a fresh #11 blade point and apply Solvaset to get them to lay down. You might try adding a couple drops of alcohol to your decal setting solutions to break surface tension and make it harder for bubbles to form.

I have had them silver as well, and you can get rid of that by slicing into the film with a fresh #11 blade and re-applying solution.

I drag decals across a paper towell to get rid of the water they soaked in as well. This reduces silvering & bubbles (I use distilled water)

Hope this helps!
 
Hmmm - FWIW I've done quite a lot of decals in my car modeling days, mostly without issue - My 02c;

- That's a lot 'sols and 'sets you've got going there! :) [I know that's pretty much the instructions from the Microscale bottle, but I reckon they just want you to use more product!.....]
- My understanding (and I could be wrong!) is that Microsol is simply a stronger version of Microset - Which to use is determined by the thickness of the decal and how "gnarly" the surface is.
- It sounds like you've got the decal laid down pretty well after the first application - Why mess with it? [I'm not arguing btw, just don't quite get it!]

For some reason I also recall not trying to "blot" it dry but rather simply let it evaporate is a good idea - Dunno where I got that from, but that's what I do.

Cheers,
Ian
 
fast_ian said:
For some reason I also recall not trying to "blot" it dry but rather simply let it evaporate is a good idea - Dunno where I got that from, but that's what I do.

Cheers,
Ian
Click to expand...

Well the instructions say not to blot it but to let it dry itself
 
After i position the decals using the micro set, i blot them to keep them in place, then use micro sol right away, i don't let them dry. It seems to work for the air bubbles, only usually get 1 or 2 small ones around detailed areas.
 
Thanks, folks. I'll try not blotting.

I don't do the the Micro Sol before the decal is set because I've found it softens the decal too much and if it gets knocked out of alignment, I risk tearing it moving it back into place.
 
I apply the decals onto a good sized puddle of Micro-set. Move the decal around a bit to ensure the Micro-set has completely coated the backside. Let it set in the puddle until you can see the clear part of the film starting to wrinkle. Now hold the decal vertical which will cause the excess Micro-set to flow to the bottom where you can wick it away with a Kleenex. Let the decal set horizontally for a few more minutes. I then use a soft brush (1/8 - 1/4 round) and carefully use it to squee-gee out the rest of the Micro-set from under the decal. At this stage, it's quite easy to smooth out any wrinkles or bubbles. Most times, you may not even have to add any Micro-sol or solvaset. IF you do need some for fussy areas like door hinges - apply it very sparingly and ONLY where you need it. Do not flood the surface or apply it excessively - that WILL cause bubbles. A few minimal coats are better than one flood coat !


Mark.
 
Mark, thanks. I think part of my issue too has been adding too much Micro Sol.

I did one half of a boxcar and covered hopper last night, and had good results without blotting. I used the wicking method to remove excess liquid.
 
Guess I might as well chirp in here with my routine. I just follow the directions with the Microscale directions. Now my difference is this
while the decal is floating in place, I apply the edge of a paper napkin/Kleenex (whatever) just to the edge of the wet area, capillary action removes any excess solvents from the whole area. Do not touch or pat the decal, put the model aside and let it dry
AMR.jpg

The Cape Breton & Central Nova Scotia Railway decal is 4 inches long, and is applied over a very irregular surface (access doors and hinges) so there is bound to be a few bubbles to fix. Again follow the Microscale directions
Now as far as the surface goes I just spray paint the loco with micro scale "Engine Black" paint. There's no primer or shiny coat applied, For a finish and a sealer I spray with a can of Testors dull coat. That's it, it works for me

Cheers
Willis
 
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