Adding re-railers to track.


Kentuckyjed

Kentuckyjed

Member
Posted in an older thread so I am reposting.
Are there any re-railer sections per say that could be added to/ dropped inside a straight section of track and left there? I put a built in re-railer/crossing on my layout but I wish I would have put more and don't have the room for the crossing part due to track proximity.
 
Kentuckyjed said:
Posted in an older thread so I am reposting.
Are there any re-railer sections per say that could be added to/ dropped inside a straight section of track and left there? I put a built in re-railer/crossing on my layout but I wish I would have put more and don't have the room for the crossing part due to track proximity.
Click to expand...
That's an interesting question, I only put in one and wish I had added more as well. I haven't tried it yet, but I was also thinking I could pop one off of a spare Bachmann EZ Track or Atlas rerailer.
 
Hey Kent....
My track is code 83, so I took piece of 80 black styrene & cut rerailers to fit between the molded tie plates. Of course you can make them as long or short as you want and as many as you want. I favor a longer rerailer.
This is somebody else's great idea, I read about a few years ago.
Just be sure the styrene is lower than the tops of the rails.
Rerailer.jpg
 
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2Tracks said:
Hey Kent....
My track is code 83, so I took piece of 80 black styrene & cut rerailers to fit between the molded tie plates. Of course you can make them as long or short as you want and as many as you want. I favor a longer rerailer.
This is somebody else's great idea, I read about a few years ago.
Just be sure the styrene is lower than the tops of the rails.
View attachment 200262
Click to expand...
That's a good idea, I'll have to try that myself. I use code 100, but I'm sure I have something of the right thickness.
 
2Tracks said:
Hey Kent....
My track is code 83, so I took piece of 80 black styrene & cut rerailers to fit between the molded tie plates. Of course you can make them as long or short as you want and as many as you want. I favor a longer rerailer.
This is somebody else's great idea, I read about a few years ago.
Just be sure the styrene is lower than the tops of the rails.
View attachment 200262
Click to expand...
That is a good idea. I might try it or try and cut out a rerailer from an old piece of rerailer/crossing I have.
Thanks 2Tracks.
 
2Tracks said:
My track is code 83, so I took piece of 80 black styrene & cut rerailers to fit between the molded tie plates.
Just be sure the styrene is lower than the tops of the rails.
View attachment 200262
Click to expand...
That is only 1/2 the equation. It needs another piece on the outside of the rail to help the wheel there climb back up onto the rail.
The styrene on the outside should be sloping up to achieve the same height as the rail.
 
I agree, an outside piece would sure help make a car rerail if it was running down the track, so, is that the reason the rerailer is at that spot? If so, then I guess I'd leave it, or fix the track.......
I use them in staging to set cars on the rail, because the wheels are usually close to the rail when its set down, just a few motions over the guide and the car is on the track, no outside pieces needed.
The guide does need to be glued down.
 
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Here's a rerailer I made on the empty side of my rotary dumper. It does a pretty good job getting the cars that slipped off the rails in the dump process back in line. All the ties are removed under this section but it could be fabricated on top of the ties. Note where the inside and outside tapers meet the rails. In the first version, they were even with each other but it didn't work nearly as well as this version where the outside taper meets the rail about a quarter inch before the inside taper.

rerailer.jpg
 
Very cool Paul!
As to dropping between the rails, there is or was such a thing and I believe it’s called a “Jiffy Railer”.

As a side note I actually did the worst possible thing I can think of doing the other day, derailed a loaded Schnabel car on the center track in staging! I don’t think there’s a retailer in existence that could get that back on track. D'oh!
(Totally my fault… threw a turnout midway thru)
 
Rico said:
Very cool Paul!
As to dropping between the rails, there is or was such a thing and I believe it’s called a “Jiffy Railer”.

As a side note I actually did the worst possible thing I can think of doing the other day, derailed a loaded Schnabel car on the center track in staging! I don’t think there’s a retailer in existence that could get that back on track. D'oh!
(Totally my fault… threw a turnout midway thru)
Click to expand...
I have seen a picture of the Jiffy railer but there is no information on the internet that can be obtained about it. It would work perfect in my application.
jiffy.jpg
 
Does anyone out there make a code 100 HO scale railer insert? I have seen on other posts where someone had a 3-d printer and made some.
 
kjd said:
Here's a rerailer I made on the empty side of my rotary dumper. It does a pretty good job getting the cars that slipped off the rails in the dump process back in line. All the ties are removed under this section but it could be fabricated on top of the ties. Note where the inside and outside tapers meet the rails. In the first version, they were even with each other but it didn't work nearly as well as this version where the outside taper meets the rail about a quarter inch before the inside taper.

View attachment 200512
Click to expand...
The key is the ramps on the outsides to the re-railer working.
 
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