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I have only made one layout, but if I ever do another I think I would like to try something different. It would be nice to have a layout in mountians, like the L&N for example. Also I would like one along the Florida coast like FEC with all the palms and such. Which one to have? Why not...

Yes, track first. You can cover the track with tape to keep the debris from the plaster or whatever from getting on it. Ballast I would put in last, the final touch.

I have never tried but I would think so. I am too chicken to try to weather my locos with an airbrush just yet, so I have used powered chaulk, put on with a brush. Try it on a junked car and see if it will wash off.

A bit short, but this was all I could find: http://www.trainsetsonly.com/page/TSO/PROD/933-3012&ProductsPerPage=20&sort=id.asc&Initial=&lastcat=Bridges&Offset=

Call these guys: http://www.miltondepot.org/ The depot has lots of stuff, their mainstay in L&N.

You can always make your own if decals are out there. What period are you interested in? http://www.ebay.com/itm/HO-DECALS-L-N-CABOOSE-c1963-80-MICROSCALE-MINI-NIP-/250884331562 This one ended but they are always popping up from time to time.

Looking way back, I think I used these thick rolls of mechanics paper towels, just wet them in water/white glue. Put them on thick so I could put my trees on, then a shell of hydrocal over that. Brushed on thinned paints for soil and grass, added small srubs,sprayed mix of water and white glue...

Ok, I'm set to go. Thanks guys. Frog

It looks like you took the brass spring off before painting? All my cars are assembled already. No problem with getting a bit of spray on the brass spring?

I am ready to try out my new airbrush on a few cars. I am going to do the truck and wheels first in a grime light over spray and see how they look. No problem there as I'll have both off the car body. But if/when I decide to weather the cars what is the best way to mask off the coupler...

What I use to do way back when I was a kid was to just stick the small Testor bottles in one of my pockets for the day. That worked pretty good.

We have such a barn next to our yard. Barns were built for different needs, cow barns, mule barns, whatever. Ours is a utility barn with a mule stall, 2 cribs, hayloft, and three sheds for the tractor and large farm truck. I am surprised it is still standing, built in 1948. Wooden sides...

I just pack and stack 'em. The computer paper boxes are great for this. With cardboard and hot glue I made slots and brackets. The brackets are high enough to keep clear of the couplers and protrude far enough out to prevent the cars from hitting the ends with the couplers. I can get 24...

Hey I thank you for that. I found a couple of places to order some but $8 shipping was a bit too much for just that. Can't understand why our Hobby Lobby doesn't have any. Right now a project I am doing is on hold as to the MicroSet, I suppose I could try water, I have plenty of MicroSol...

Never tried Ebay at all, but I went to a small local train show last weekend and they had tons of used rolling stock for as little as $2, some with good couplers on them. Highest prices on the used cars was $5 which still isn't bad. No pulpwood cars, though, which for me was probably a good...

I have some sectional 18 rad curve track on my layout, most "hidden from view". At the time I just used what I had. If I did it all over, flextrack all the way for the reasons mentioned above. Also if you can start your curves easy, not from straight to 18 or 22 rad. Just work into the...

Ever since 9/11 it has been tough to take pics of railcars. A several years back I spotted in our yard here a Atlantic Coast Line 40 ft. boxcar in very good shape. I wanted to go get some pics of it--haven't seen one since the early 70's, but I was told no. More than likely had I just gone on...

Well at last I have completed my A and B units, not too good to crow about but I have learned a lot of do's and don'ts, also I have become a "pro" at stripping and starting over. The primer worked like a charm, very sharp lines, tough working with yellow when your masking tape is of the same...

Thanks for the advice. I don't mind at all in taking it down and clening it, I just didn't want it to get clogged up. I have yet to use it, I want to pratice first with some oddball paint I hardly ever use or something else that is inexpensive. Then at last I will start to work on my...

Kinda a basic topic, but I got a new airbrush, a Badger Patriot 105. I have read how to strip it down but I was told I don't have to do all that unless I start having problems. I was told to just clean out the bowl good and run thinner through it until clear, then put the tip of the brush...