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Ahh, thanks. That’s what I thought but didn’t know.

Understood, but these seem to be latching, whereas the ones I have are strictly momentary, and lack whatever that is that is attached on the outside with that small band. What is that. And how does it affect the switch?

Can anyone tell me what the screw size that will screw into the brass “ferules” that hold the trucks on inside these passenger cars? Am installing some DCC lighting and am going to orient the wheelsets to pick up left rail from one wheelset, right from the other. Also looking for a “drop in”...

Does anyone know how those magnetic switches function? I purchased some but they do not have magnets attached, so they only operate momentarily when a magnet is applied. How do these switches (with the tiny magnets attached) function? Does it take a stronger magnetic field with the opposite...

Thanks, sir! Had no idea, but want to get some lighting capability in them. Are thw battery units the ones you can turn on and off with a magnet? Seems I saw something like that once, but can’t remember where or when.

Can the Kato KAT11212 kits be made to work in the Concor (N&W, Powhatan Arrow) streamlined cars ? Has anyone done this. What about the heavyweight cars (Concor)? If not, has anyone used a readily available kit to do this? Have 3 Class J's, enough cars for 2 Powhatan's (or a Cavalier) and a...

Good to know. Thanks!

Not yet, but working on it!

Does anyone have one of these? I’d love to know your opinion of it, am considering buying one.

Ah. That tracks. Thanks, will look for those.

You wouldn’t have a link to a source for these, would you? I can’t seem to find them anywhere.

The only word for your boxcab is awesome! Now I’m getting the itch for sure.

😆

So, what’s the difference between an 11-105,106,107,108,109? What are the motors like in these? I am thinking of building some “powered freight cars” to act as pushers for my underpowered/slippery steamers, and am curious as to whether anyone has done this, as to whether anyone has used these...

Awesome. Thanks!

Thanks for the reply and the info. I’ve heard that because the N scale ones lack a traction tire that they don’t pull so well on grade (I’ve never run them!), and a doubleheader would be prototypical, so there’s that. Was thinking of trying Bullfrog Snot if needed, have heard it works pretty...

Great, thanks! What would you use to replace the Rapido on the tender?

Hard to believe these Lifelike Proto 2000 USRA 2-8-8-2 Y3s are as old as they are. Does anyone know of a source for spare parts for these? Would also like to do a coupler conversion, to double head them in a consist. Has anyone done this conversion? What part did you use (Kaydee coupler)?

Was thinking of soldering on my leads, then brushing on some liquid electric tape. Should work. Stuff stinks, though! The light has a small pcb attached to the front of the frame, I assumed it was to step the voltage down. Want to control the light, so wondering if I should keep the pcb, cut it...

Thanks very much for replying to my post. Hadn’t expected to get help so quickly, but very happy to be wrong (as opposed to normal, being very wrong to be happy!) Thanks again!