Recent content by rbwhale

12 inches in HO scale (1:87) is more like .14 inches, or a little over an eighth inch.

USPS Priority Mail is quite cheap. When I was selling my heavy G scale track on EBay this year it reduced the rate for a heavy box of 12 pieces by about 50 bucks. The seller has to use the USPS Priority Mail Boxes or envelopes. Perhaps your seller is just lazy or unconcerned.

"Lotsa possibilities there..." True, and they make my not-particularly-tech-minded-head spin. All I want is some nice bass and better fidelity through my Bluetooth powered speakers. And, maybe, a subwoofer, although when my wife starts objecting if my N scale SD-40-2 begins shaking pictures on...

Thank you so much. I had not considered getting a larger scale decoder but, since size is not relevant, it makes perfect sense. Once again I'm so appreciative of all of the expert advice I've received from forum members. You guys are awesome.

That's a good point. I suppose I just don't want more wires running around to trip over in a very confined space. But I try to be open minded: if Bluetooth is too complicated I could wire it. I just don't know what to buy and what to connect to what. Do you have any insights? Thanks

I have some questions on still another topic I know nothing about. I have two large bluetooth bookshelf speakers next to my layout with good bass. If I want to go about playing loco sounds through those speakers instead of tiny loco speakers is that possible? If it is, what do I need to acquire...

I am gluing to 2" XPS foam. Would you advise attaching at several spots along the piece of track or just laying down a bead and spreading it flat, so that the entire edges of the unitrack roadbed are in contact?

My N scale layout, designed to be folded up against my study wall, is proceeding but, as I was preparing to start gluing down my Kato unitrack with DAP acrylic caulk, I was struck by the following thought. Ouch: Most glued down track remains horizontal. Mine will be rotated 90 degrees relative...

Thanks. I did get that much out of the video, and the switches I ordered are DPDT On-Off-On momentary switches.

The Kato switch has only two wires. I've seen that video several times, I'm just trying to wrap my head around the way to do multiple switches. So, if I understand you, I can run the DC power with two wires into the panel, to that terminal block, and then use shorter wires to connect the power...

I would prefer to use the DPDT momentary toggles. I suppose I just need a way to minimize the number of wires, For example, can I uses a terminal block to send DC powers to all the switches? I think I have to run a positive and negative wire to each DPDT center terminal for each individual...

The work on my fold up N scale layout is progressing at a pace best described as "glacial" but I am ready to try my hand at the turnout control panel. It will control 5 Kato #6 remote turnouts, all within 3 feet of one another, powered by a separate 12 volt DC power supply (track power will be...

Thanks.

Much appreciated. I'll take your advice about the distribution boards, and I am going to use the separate power supply to handle the lights as well. I can't tell you how much I depend on a forum like this: the wisdom of crowds is invaluable in model railroading.

From what I'm hearing here, and in your post, is that a 100 watt 5 amp power supply should be sufficient, since even the highest current draw, the Kadee electromagnetic decoupler and the turnouts are only activated one at a time. Posts on the N scale forum agree that the turnouts need a little...