I am not familiar with the layout that you referenced.
As to your transformer question, you have one in the box, should work fine with your locomotive or any DC locomotive.
Thanks for the info, I’ve already ordered most of the track, I didn’t think about using flex track. I’ll for sure use it more when I expand. Here’s a poor pic of the layout.Good luck going forward. The transformer that comes with this set, although I don't recognize the brand, should be sufficient for a 4' x 8' layout.
Things to consider: Do you just want to see trains go around and around? Or do you want to build in switching opportunities? Do you want a second inner loop or a passing siding? How soon do you plan to expand?
I don't see switches in the box, so that might be your first purchase. Install them in the beginning even if they lead to no where. I would add a second terminal track, or learn to solder additional feeder wires at additional points.
Recommendations: Try to avoid taking the track apart and reassembling it with any frequency, as this will weaken the rail joiners and eventually affect the current flow. Many folks solder the rail joiners or the track. I do not because of potential expansion/contraction issues with the plywood. But I have power feeders connected to every track section. I use flex track so there's a feeder every 6' or so. Use as much flex track as possible, even on dead-straight sections to reduce the track connections.
If you are going to use DC for power, then a MRC power pack is usually the best choice. You will need a second one if you have an inner loop that you wish to control separately at the same time.
Replace the horn-hook couplers with Kadees as soon as possible. Exchange wheels for metal ones if you plan to stay in the hobby for long.
Learn about DCC and decide if it is right for you. I use DC because I am a solo operator, I can only control one train at a time, sound means nothing to me, and I don't want to pay for or install decoders in 80 engines! I do have multiple power supplies, but as I stated, I can only pay attention to one train at a time.
Post pictures as you progress since we all love pictures. Ask as many questions as you have, the only dumb one is the one that you don't ask! If you have the time, come join us in the Coffee Shop for both train banter and useless chatter. There's a lot of action there although it's not everybody's cup of coffee!
Me too, I’ve been studying this for a couple weeks. I think it will make sense when I get My table built and start laying everything out.
Agreed!
I plan on laying all the track first then work on the details. I want to try and model the landscape of were I’m from. The red dirt on NW Oklahoma.
Any chance you can change the dimensions from 4x8 to 5x9, and then grow the layout from that size? Or even 5x8, or 4x9? I've found over the years, that going from a 4' wide to 5' wide layout, can add a lot in terms of the size of locos and rolling stock that will operate reliably. That includes lengthening/reducing grades, and things like that, which mean you might be able to operate longer trains, or trains at more realistic speeds. Plus more space, means maybe another industry, or more space for scenery in general.
I would if I could find a 5X9’ sheet of plywood. Grade is addressed in detail in the book, as is a 5x9 layout. I’m still in the planning gathering phase so anything is possible.
5' x 9' layout addressed? Sorta' kinda'. What they show in the book is the 4' x 8' layout super-imposed on a 5' x 9' table to simply show more available room around the outside of the track plan for scenery purposes, and/or possibly throw an extra siding or two around the outside of the track plan, as opposed to enlarging the actual plan with larger curves.
It also says you can add 6” sections of track at the locations Z on the master plan to stretch the track a little.5' x 9' layout addressed? Sorta' kinda'. What they show in the book is the 4' x 8' layout super-imposed on a 5' x 9' table to simply show more available room around the outside of the track plan for scenery purposes, and/or possibly throw an extra siding or two around the outside of the track plan, as opposed to enlarging the actual plan with larger curves.
On a 5' x 9' table, one might be able to go to 22" radius curves instead of the 18" curves (and you might have to go to 5' x 10' in order to achieve this), but now we're talking more time in re-drawing and/or re-scaling the layout in order to make sure that everything works out properly. Scaling up the curves? Not a problem. But scaling up the Snap-Switch turnouts with their built-in 18" radius diverging track? Oops - unless we hand lay our turnouts, that's gonna' start presenting problems.
For anyone's first layout, they would probably be wisest to stick with a proven plan and leave custom modifying for later on down the road after gaining some good, initial experience. Plus they'll be up & running a lot sooner!
Actually that is incorrect.
DC doesn't require any fancy equipment to use. Some of us can't pay attention to two trains at once.
I’m sorry you don’t like the 4 x 8 layout I have chosen and suggest a wall mount system. What makes you think I have a wall to use. Guys like you are the reason I’m hesitant to post in forums but I can solve that problem pretty easily. Good bye, I’m out!
Hi magilla12,
Well, I think the layout in the book actually ends up being more like a 5x9 after all the "growing" is done.
