If you are referring to the stream channel, I would use sheet rock compound or hydrocal first, then paint. Then, I think vegetation along the top of the stream and sand/mud along the channel.Spent a couple hours before the family came to get stuff out of the basement.
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Main creek channel deepened and the bridge restained. It took some time to get the extra old glue off where I stripped off parts I wasn't going to use. Looks like in the picture the stain is still a little damp. Dark Walnut was used. Has a dark tarry, creosote look in person. While I didn't get a picture, I also got the lift bridge piece glued and set. Where the lift bridge sits, I used some Atlas 3" straight pieces so I wasn't depending on the flex at the access points. I also made the gap between the layout rails and the lift bridge rails a bit tighter (reduced the gap).
I think before I set the track back in place, I need to get the channel walls constructed. The bridge in the above picture still is not glued in place. I think it would be easier to have it mostly plastered and colored before I set the bridge.
What should I use for the stream "walls"?
From Amazon I got 15 pounds of hydrocal for $33, free shipping. I wasted about half of the first bag experimenting.Thanks Dave,
I was not wanting sheet rock compound, but that may be less expensive than hydrocal. You kind of nailed what I'm attempting to recreate. Many streams in my area have a high bank on the outside of the curve and a low sandy\mud\fines bank on the inside of the curve.
Jouef is now owned by Hornby, in their heyday they were the premier model train company in France, but they still manufacture models in France, I've put a link for their catalogue if anyone would like to have a browse.Turns out the bride was made be a French model company called Jouef. When I did a web search it turns out to be no longer made, but the company still sells European models.
Lookin good, PatrickWell,
Some additional shots of new work. This was the last shot posted of Saturday's work. View attachment 144874
I also had time to finally fix some areas that tend to derail my 6 axle locomotives. All my 6 axle engines move smoothly across all lines. That is my E7's and an SD-40 I have.
Then I took some time today to do this:
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View attachment 144876I have now a complete working bridge. I think I can still add details without compromising the bridge structure. I'm still not sure what water details or leave it as a dry wash.
I did clean the rails, as they needed it. 91% iso and pieces of old blue jeans. Now 2 lines in my have failed, but I think it's a wiring issue as the other 3 lines are fine. Next is to figure out how I want to start the town area and ballasting track. I think I'm at a point to further see where I want to go with the layout.
You could try something like this, it sits on the rails so wont release too much onto the track, there a few different types around, and a bit sturdier too.Looks like it's been a while...
First attempt at ballast, what a mess!
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Can't get a train down this siding, can you see why?
Thank goodness I am friends with my dentist.
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Took 30 minutes to clear the ballast that got stuck on the inside of the rails and clear the "ties" of the ballast mess.
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I can run trains on this now but still clumpy in spots.
A picture of my ballast spreader:
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This is the outside line of my yard area. I have about 2 feet completed. I did vacuum up the lose stuff. Any ideas?