Would anyone want to design a layout for me?
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Oh ya! That caulk has many purposes. I use it for track, building mountains/hills out of foam pieces, HO scale figures. I even feed it to my dog! LOL
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N
North Coast Railroad
Guest
The benchwork does look pretty darn good. Interesting track, I would like to see your stub yard worked into it.
Keep us posted.
Keep us posted.
Got a little more of the benchwork done today before I ran out of 1x4's 
I know benchwork isn't much to look at but it's all I got right now haha.
Having a bit of trouble getting everything perfectly level Because of the carpet but it's pretty close. That was part of the deal about using this room, cant remove the carpet haha. Hope the plywood top will help tie it all together. If not, good ol mother earth isn't perfectly level either, and I'll just have to fix it with the subroadbed. Any suggestions?
I know benchwork isn't much to look at but it's all I got right now haha.
Having a bit of trouble getting everything perfectly level Because of the carpet but it's pretty close. That was part of the deal about using this room, cant remove the carpet haha. Hope the plywood top will help tie it all together. If not, good ol mother earth isn't perfectly level either, and I'll just have to fix it with the subroadbed. Any suggestions?
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Motley
Active Member
I have the same exact problem. My layout is in a finished basement with carpet. My benchwork is less than perfect.
I had some problems with not so perfect trackwork. No problems with anything until I got a 4-6-6-4 MTH Challenger, and that thing is very picky.
I resolved the issues by leveling out my track by squirting some latex caulk under the rails where it was dipping. I used a long straight-edged level, laid it across the problem areas, and were you see light, is where the dips are.
That's why you test, test, and test some more, before ballasting and scenery.
I had some problems with not so perfect trackwork. No problems with anything until I got a 4-6-6-4 MTH Challenger, and that thing is very picky.
I resolved the issues by leveling out my track by squirting some latex caulk under the rails where it was dipping. I used a long straight-edged level, laid it across the problem areas, and were you see light, is where the dips are.
That's why you test, test, and test some more, before ballasting and scenery.
Motley
Active Member
Oh ya! That caulk has many purposes. I use it for track, building mountains/hills out of foam pieces, HO scale figures. I even feed it to my dog! LOL
Motley
Active Member
While I'm thinking about it, let me give you some track laying advice.
What I've done that works. I use 2" drywall screws. Lay down a thin strip of caulk on your roadbed (I use cork). On curves, I secure the track with 2" drywall screws, only on each outside rail but between the ties. Maybe every 4"-8" or so. But not tight down on the rail.
I connect the section with rail joiners. Then I solder all joints, just on the outside of the rail.
Check for any dips, squirt caulk under. Check that it's all level.
When the caulk dries after a few hours, I remove all the drywall screws. Good to go onto the next section.
Some people also use push pins, but I found the drywall screws hold better on curves.
What it looks like....
What I've done that works. I use 2" drywall screws. Lay down a thin strip of caulk on your roadbed (I use cork). On curves, I secure the track with 2" drywall screws, only on each outside rail but between the ties. Maybe every 4"-8" or so. But not tight down on the rail.
I connect the section with rail joiners. Then I solder all joints, just on the outside of the rail.
Check for any dips, squirt caulk under. Check that it's all level.
When the caulk dries after a few hours, I remove all the drywall screws. Good to go onto the next section.
Some people also use push pins, but I found the drywall screws hold better on curves.
What it looks like....
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Thanks for the kind words and help so far everyone.
I stopped in the one and only train shop in my area and spoke with the owner about how to wire this up. Found out that just using one DC transmitter was not an option. He said because the runs were so long I would lose alot of current down the tracks and my engines would run either really slow or come to a stop the further they got away from where power is put to the tracks.
Any thoughts on this?
His advice was to use isolators and divide the layout into half or thirds and use multiple transmitters or convert all my old engines to DCC.
I stopped in the one and only train shop in my area and spoke with the owner about how to wire this up. Found out that just using one DC transmitter was not an option. He said because the runs were so long I would lose alot of current down the tracks and my engines would run either really slow or come to a stop the further they got away from where power is put to the tracks.
Any thoughts on this?
His advice was to use isolators and divide the layout into half or thirds and use multiple transmitters or convert all my old engines to DCC.
Rotorranch
MRR Refugee
DCC would probably be the easiest to wire, but it can be done on DC without too much trouble. Whatever you decide to use, you will need a large gauge bus wire system to tansfer to the far reaches of the layout. Then you can run smaller feeder wires to the track. Not too hard to do, and will make a big difference in performance.
Rotor
Rotor
Motley
Active Member
I would recommend get a decent DCC system. Both Digitrax and NCE offer affordable systems for a layout your size. You will need at least a 3-5amp system. Depending on how much you want to spend.
I prefer NCE. I have the 5amp Powerhouse Pro with Wireless controller, and it's great for newbies, and easy to learn and control.
Once you get a DCC & Sound locomotive, you will absolutely love it. To convert your old engines, you could just get cheap DCC replacement decoders for about $25-$40 each.
I prefer NCE. I have the 5amp Powerhouse Pro with Wireless controller, and it's great for newbies, and easy to learn and control.
Once you get a DCC & Sound locomotive, you will absolutely love it. To convert your old engines, you could just get cheap DCC replacement decoders for about $25-$40 each.
I have decided to go the DCC route folks. I will slowly convert the most used engines I have to DCC and roll from there.
I do have a question on benchwork however. I was thinking of getting the 2" foam to use as the subroadbed so I can carve out small rivers and such but wonder if it's worth it or not.
Also, does it have to be glued to plywood or can I simply glue it to the top of the bechwork as is? If I do have to use plywood can I get away with 1/4" instead of 1/2" or 5/8"?
I do have a question on benchwork however. I was thinking of getting the 2" foam to use as the subroadbed so I can carve out small rivers and such but wonder if it's worth it or not.
Also, does it have to be glued to plywood or can I simply glue it to the top of the bechwork as is? If I do have to use plywood can I get away with 1/4" instead of 1/2" or 5/8"?
Well I got all the plywood on and screwed down and smooth at all joints.
Drew the layout on the plywood as a rough sketch and made sure all my turns would fit. Right now i have two 24" curves that i want to try and expand to atleast 26".
Just need to pick up the foam and finalize the layout on the foam so I can start laying cork
Drew the layout on the plywood as a rough sketch and made sure all my turns would fit. Right now i have two 24" curves that i want to try and expand to atleast 26".
Just need to pick up the foam and finalize the layout on the foam so I can start laying cork
That's a good question on the switches. I know I want remote ones since I'm going with DCC but also want a good brand that won't give me too much trouble. I was actually going to start a thread asking about switches but wanted to search the forums first.
I may end up with about 6 total looking at it the way it sits right now.
I think the title of this thread needs to be changed. It went from a help thread to a build thread haha.
I may end up with about 6 total looking at it the way it sits right now.
I think the title of this thread needs to be changed. It went from a help thread to a build thread haha.
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