What's happening on your layout?

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I'm not sure if that ink pen will work very well. Problem is the same as painting with a brush; it's hard to get the paint on rail base between the tie plates. With spray, the paint covers pretty much the whole rail, just at the end i have to get it off the top of the rolling surface of the rail. My layout description is under Waldenburg Midland if you want to see more.
Hey, I looked at your video on Waldenburg Midland with trains running, looks like loads of fun. The edge work is pretty cool.

I was not sure what "it's hard to get the paint on rail base between the tie plate" was but just in case it helps, at times a picture is worth a thousand words. One thing I should mention, my track is ON30 and the width of that pen head is just perfect. I often do the pen before putting the track down and then I just run my finger on top to remove the ink. Even when the track is down, with scenery, I can just run the pen along the edge of the track without any masking. In the end, no matter the method, if the train runs, then it worked.
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I'm not sure if that ink pen will work very well. Problem is the same as painting with a brush; it's hard to get the paint on rail base between the tie plates. With spray, the paint covers pretty much the whole rail, just at the end i have to get it off the top of the rolling surface of the rail. My layout description is under Waldenburg Midland if you want to see more.
 
Hey, I looked at your video on Waldenburg Midland with trains running, looks like loads of fun. The edge work is pretty cool.

I was not sure what "it's hard to get the paint on rail base between the tie plate" was but just in case it helps, at times a picture is worth a thousand words. One thing I should mention, my track is ON30 and the width of that pen head is just perfect. I often do the pen before putting the track down and then I just run my finger on top to remove the ink. Even when the track is down, with scenery, I can just run the pen along the edge of the track without any masking. In the end, no matter the method, if the train runs, then it worked.
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Hey that's pretty cool, i might consider this for hard to reach places and near switches. Do they come in Grime color?
 


Hey, I looked at your video on Waldenburg Midland with trains running, looks like loads of fun. The edge work is pretty cool.

I was not sure what "it's hard to get the paint on rail base between the tie plate" was but just in case it helps, at times a picture is worth a thousand words. One thing I should mention, my track is ON30 and the width of that pen head is just perfect. I often do the pen before putting the track down and then I just run my finger on top to remove the ink. Even when the track is down, with scenery, I can just run the pen along the edge of the track without any masking. In the end, no matter the method, if the train runs, then it worked.
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You got me curious so I did a search on "model master enamel stain marker grime" and they actually have it. I don't know why I did not think to search for grime before but that is perfect. I bought one on for $7. thanks. Happy new year
 
Been meaning to ask, what technique did you use to get the paint off the top of the rails?

I will be painting my track similarly and wonder if I need to use cotton cloth with isopropyl?
I use paint thinner on paper towels. I can only do few feet at a time because automotive primer tends to harden right away. Station area was actually done 5 tracks wide with 3 feet at once. As soon as i'm done with thinner soaked towel, i run track cleaning sponge over the rails. Switch points are covered with masking tape, i'll do those by hand.
 


Here is a train I was running earlier today,

If I haven't said it already. Welcome to the forums, we are glad to have you with us.

Great train, thanks for sharing.

Ken once said something like, watching a video in portrait mode is like peeking through the slots of a fence. I agree, but a peek at a great train is better than nothing. 😁 Thanks again!
 
I decided to put this little kit together today, also add some more details to some of the quarry buildings

First, the Roundhouse "Assay Office". The ebay buy came with three of these little buildings, I still have one new in the package to assemble

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The foreground building is a couple hour build, still needs paint and glass, I also got the galvanized on the Crusher building and the smokestack

bldg construction work.JPG


I got the tin on the rock bin as well, also put on some new chunks of sandstone. The new tin is begging weathering, for now it will be new tin

Dave LASM
 
I rebuilt part of my staging yard and to keep the trains from going over the Cliffs of Great Peril, made some simple, solid train stoppers. They are just scraps of styrene and meant to be functional without regard to appearance. The long strip sits flat on the ties. .080x.100" cleats on the bottom keep it from sliding. The angled parts are behind the cleats so when a train hits the buffer, it drives it harder against the ties. The angled pieces are tall enough to grab the axles but low enough to clear the car body. After they were done, I realized cut bars and other car end detail might not work with this design and it might be better to catch the coupler instead.
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I rebuilt part of my staging yard and to keep the trains from going over the Cliffs of Great Peril, made some simple, solid train stoppers. They are just scraps of styrene and meant to be functional without regard to appearance. The long strip sits flat on the ties. .080x.100" cleats on the bottom keep it from sliding. The angled parts are behind the cleats so when a train hits the buffer, it drives it harder against the ties. The angled pieces are tall enough to grab the axles but low enough to clear the car body. After they were done, I realized cut bars and other car end detail might not work with this design and it might be better to catch the coupler instead.
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That looks good nice scratch work
 
My interests have suck so low, I am actually building some plastic structures. I guess boredom bit me in the ass and I drug out my nemesis, SSltd's Jenning's Lumber Co. I've done this before; but this time I might give it a go...it is either that of AMB Dabler's Mill and Supply. Jenning's is board on board and you have to make over 120 bents. I don't know if I have the patience anymore to do something like that. I have the full kit with all the machinery and 200 bucks would take the decision off my mind and someone else can give it a try
 


I am waiting for a new bag of hydrocal, so did a bunch of "piddly" stiff on the layout; stuff that has to get done but is barely noticable:

From Groningen to the bridge, I got all the spacer ties in place and glued down (between the flex track pieces), got all the track tacked in place and lined up properly that you can see here and tacked down

prog 1.JPG


I actually got a box car out and checked out my track a little, this part is also nailed down and ready for paint and ballast:


prog 2.JPG


Also got the bridge track cut to the right length and put down a little base ballast (filled in some spaces with glue and sand)

prog 3.JPG


This track will be painted and ballasted. I had some gaps where the grade dropped down going into Grantsburg.

Dave LASM
 




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