What happened to my decals????

[jasonelki]

So let me get this straight, some of you gloss the model prior to decals? Just the areas where the decals will go, or the entire model? Seems like models look a bit odd when glossed, but I suppose you just go through after and dullcoat, knocking down the shine.
I have a few engines I'm going to decal and just trying to get the process down!

 

[Espeefan]

Looks like it's all been said to me, but here's my experiences anyway:

Scalecoat does not have to be gloss coated prior to decal application. I never do, and paying customers have never complained. YMMV.

Tamiya's yellow masking tape will lift poorly set decals, and with scalecoat, will not lift the paint. If it does, you have a poor application anyway, or you didn't let it cure long enough.

If I do gloss, I gloss the whole model, except I may not gloss steam engine frames & runing gear. Again, depends on peronal tastes.

The X-Acto knife trick is great and I ve used it a bunch, especially on Champ decals. Those things are TOUGH!

 

[malletman]

Same here, a new X-acto blade and a staight pin or needle to prick bubbles and patience is whats needed to save silvered decals, even ones applied years ago. The setting solution will wick in between the decal and the paint thru the pin pricks or where you slit the decal with the hobby knife. I have successfuly decaled on both satin and gloss paint surfaces without the need to put a layer of gloss on it. You want to keep the layers of paint and gloss to a min. I have noticed that if I use to many coats of Testors gloss from a can, details can blend in from the thickness of the gloss coat. The rattle cans dont get as fine of a coat as my airbrush. I try to use paints that will give me a good surface for decaling, then I seal with gloss and airbrush the dull coat as I normal weather the model at the same time. Mike