What do you use for dullcote/flat finish?

[DaveTheTrain]

Hi folks,

I'm just getting started in painting and weathering my ho scale models with an airbrush. I've been reading a ton and got my first paints to test with - acrylics to start with. The nicest models I see always have a nice flat finish and I'm wondering what people are using? I've read that Testors dullcote through an airbrush is very good, but the formula recently changed and isn't as good as it used to be. Does anybody have experience with the Microscale "Micro Flat" as a finish?

Thanks for any info!

Dave

 

[Y3a]

I don't use waterbased paints, as they don't do well when thinned a lot.

I have been using Scalecoat 1 and 2 for 30 years now. They don't need primers to obscure details. Acrylics have too thick of carriers and too large of pigment for me.

I clean the models, spray a 20% primer 80% paint mix on first, and when mostly dry I will spray 70% primer 30% paint at 40lbs air pressure from a Paasche H. That coat is very glossy. I then let it dry for a week. Next I detail paint (smokeboxes, pop valves, etc) and let it dry for a few days. I decal and set the decals with Solvoset. Finally I use Testors clear gloss Lacquer thinned 35% or so. I let it sit for 1-2 days. I paint everything as right out of the paint shop, then use flats to weather, except for grease, oil which is still glossy.

 

[NH Mike]

I've always used Testors dullcoat. Not sure about any formula change that would alter results as it always has been a laquer and still is. I use it over Floquil enamels both the old original dio-sol type and the current less potent formula with no problems. I just make sure the final color coat and decals are thoroughly dry and set, at least a few days, before laying on the dullcoat. The best thinner I've found for dullcoat is Testors thinner for their Metalizer paints which are also laquers. About 6 parts dullcoat to 4 parts Metalizer thinner.

 

[Espeefan]

I have used Testors Dullcote, but have recently changed to Testors Acryl-flat. It's water based, goes on well, and doesn't stink like the old Dullcote. I reisted the changed to acrylics for a long time, but they have come a long way with the chemistry, and they are much better than they used to be. I still use solvent based paints, but it's a matter of color availability more than a system now.

 

[Mark R.]

I use Model Master clear finishes - both flat and gloss. Mixtures of the two will produce nice satin finishes as well.

They are made by Testors as well, but like the Model Master colors, they are a higher quality finish than the regular Testors line. The Model Master flat is DEAD flat - unlike what the original Dullcoat now is (don't know what happened with that stuff (?))


Mark.

 

[catt]

I use either Krylon flat or satin finnish depending how dull I want the finnish.Around here you can get a 12oz. for about $4.00 it will last a whole lot longer than those piddly cans of Dullcoat.

 

[montanan]

Flat Finish

It looks like I'm with a lot of others. I weather with chalks and an airbrush, and I seal the weathering with Testors dullcoat also. I don't put any freight cars or locomotives on my layout until they're weathered.