What are you buying this Month?

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@Smudge617

Yep we do and yes your right, having it in two halves makes doing curves a lot easier :)

How it comes:

xsvoZWj.jpg


Separated:

VXtZC6m.jpg


Bevelling:

VvsfUE8.jpg


w2YdhI4.jpg

Finally got these to download to the forum.

This is how our cork bed looks, no center split and the edges aren't bevelled either


Cork.jpg
Cork1.jpg
 


Morning guys - I think the cork you guys get Smudge has one advantage over what we get - yours comes in an endless roll (more or less) where as ours is generally in strips of 3' lengths. Sometimes you need to cut 6" of the end of a strip to finish a section of track. That being said - have to admit, I would prefer ours being halved.
 
Morning guys - I think the cork you guys get Smudge has one advantage over what we get - yours comes in an endless roll (more or less) where as ours is generally in strips of 3' lengths. Sometimes you need to cut 6" of the end of a strip to finish a section of track. That being said - have to admit, I would prefer ours being halved.
The single biggest advantage of split roadbed is that you can line up one half along whatever you have laid out as a track centerline. And then the other half on the other side, fit up against the first. It also...and this is a big advantage, IMO, preserves the original centerline by simply bringing it up to the top. If you want to, or are willing to spend time bending your flex track back and forth and back and forth again to get a smooth curve, having that centerline as a reference can be invaluable.
I'm sure you can do something similar too with the wider cork, provided it's consistent enough in width that you can basically do the same thing by drawing another curve halfway inside (or outside) your centerline, but you may not have the centerline. HOWEVER...you can preserve the centerline and bring it up on top if you build a simple tracing tool which will let you mark a line halfway either outside the inside radius line or inside the outer radius line...or straddling both across the entire width of the roadbed. You will probably have to free hand it--put down some marks using your tools and then sketch between them--but I'll bet you can get it done.

And in any case, bending and re-bending the track will more tedious...but also rewarding when you get it both smooth...and along the right curve.
 
Morning guys - I think the cork you guys get Smudge has one advantage over what we get - yours comes in an endless roll (more or less) where as ours is generally in strips of 3' lengths. Sometimes you need to cut 6" of the end of a strip to finish a section of track. That being said - have to admit, I would prefer ours being halved.
Another advantage to the roll would be much cheaper to ship. They want $16-$18 depending on the source just to ship a box of 25.
 
I'm sure you can do something similar too with the wider cork, provided it's consistent enough in width that you can basically do the same thing by drawing another curve halfway inside (or outside) your centerline, but you may not have the centerline. HOWEVER...you can preserve the centerline and bring it up on top if you build a simple tracing tool which will let you mark a line halfway either outside the inside radius line or inside the outer radius line...or straddling both across the entire width of the roadbed. You will probably have to free hand it--put down some marks using your tools and then sketch between them--but I'll bet you can get it done.
Yes it could be done, and the cork is standard OO scale width. I mark the inner track radius as a "centerline" and work from there, it's no different than using an actual centerline, it actually makes for a larger radius.
 


I know you sent me a link at one time, but don't remember the thread. Can you resend? I want to take another look. I think it was only available through Ebay U.K. I think I looked to see if any U,S. suppliers had it, but don't remember the results.


There's also this one I found, which has adhesive backing.


.
 
I thought I had enough books, then a friend recommended 'Golden Age of Yorkshire Railways'. A book in very good condition from the Second Hand Bookshop was purchased. A mine of information. Also from the same bookshop 'Lancashire & Yorkshire Railway Miscellany'.

IMG_2721.JPG






David
 
What a question....love it... to be honest, I started with a bunch of sorting boxes to get my bits and pieces , detail parts organized. Then of course detail parts. anything from Grab Iron to stacks...also a new engine body from Shapeways...Balsa wood dowels for trees....12 mm static grass...matt medium....a refill bottle of Zip Kicker....and my NEW PRIZED POSSESSION a Grab Iron Template in HO scale...believe it or not..not one online shop in Europe or the US had one...I found one in Australia....go figure...the shipping cost was a doozie...a searchlight block signal...and the BIG one :

Atlas N 40 000 715 Diesel Alco S-2 View attachment 169447Canadian Pacific #7013 DCC + Sound​

She will be my first HOn30 Loco with sound.....Yes I decided that a $200 Will be cut up...I know I am insane...lol
Have fun guys
Chris
 
What a question....love it... to be honest, I started with a bunch of sorting boxes to get my bits and pieces , detail parts organized. Then of course detail parts. anything from Grab Iron to stacks...also a new engine body from Shapeways...Balsa wood dowels for trees....12 mm static grass...matt medium....a refill bottle of Zip Kicker....and my NEW PRIZED POSSESSION a Grab Iron Template in HO scale...believe it or not..not one online shop in Europe or the US had one...I found one in Australia....go figure...the shipping cost was a doozie...a searchlight block signal...and the BIG one :

Atlas N 40 000 715 Diesel Alco S-2 Canadian Pacific #7013 DCC + Sound​

She will be my first HOn30 Loco with sound.....Yes I decided that a $200 Will be cut up...I know I am insane...lol
Have fun guys
Chris
ALCO S 2.jpg
 
Cork: Last layout I bought a roll of cork - 48" x 3/16" x 50' which seemed spendy. After the calc's I found it was way cheaper then buying strips. So I cut my own on the [ band/table ] saw. At first I tried cutting the whole width of roadbed; 1 1/4", I think but found that bending for curves was a pain. So I started cutting 1/2 width of the roadbed. Much easier and I could maintain that center line. All in all the center line did not matter that much as it is pretty simple to eyeball it to get you ties/track correct. The beveled edges did not happen. It didn't seem to matter after the ballast got down and it looked good at 3'.

Later
 


I may try making my own someday. Seems easy enough, especially if you have 2 machines, I do, BS and TS, one setup for the bevel cut and the other set at 90 degrees. On the plus side, I think the bevels would be much better.
 




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