Weekly photo fun 7/23-7/30

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Dang Jeffrey, you just got those like two days ago, and you already weathered them?

Wow those look completely different. Great job!

I need to learn how to weather cars and locos. But spending all my time on the layout. Some day I'll give it a shot.
 


Motley said:
I need to learn how to weather cars and locos. But spending all my time on the layout. Some day I'll give it a shot.
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Interesting you say that. I actually changed some things one my layout so they looked better WITH the weathered locos/cars. Try a couple, you'll have fun!
 
Motley said:
Dang Jeffrey, you just got those like two days ago, and you already weathered them?

Wow those look completely different. Great job!

I need to learn how to weather cars and locos. But spending all my time on the layout. Some day I'll give it a shot.
Click to expand...
Actually I got them yesterday. In that time I've clipped the capacitors, programmed both units, sprayed the shells down with a heavy coat of Valspar Clear Flat to fade them then weathered them with AIM weathering powders. I've done one additional thing to the trailing unit. I blacked out the number boards and the cab numbers. I'll patch in a new number later. Now, as to weathering, there's nothing to it if you use the Bragdon or AIM powders. It's a snap to apply them and if you don't like it just wash the powder off and start again. Oh, one other thing I did to the units to make it easier to get the shells off. I cut out the section of the pilot beneath the couplers so I don't have to take them off again. The couplers are a royal pain to put back on.
 
jeffrey-wimberly said:
Actually I got them yesterday. In that time I've clipped the capacitors, programmed both units, sprayed the shells down with a heavy coat of Valspar Clear Flat to fade them then weathered them with AIM weathering powders. I've done one additional thing to the trailing unit. I blacked out the number boards and the cab numbers. I'll patch in a new number later. Now, as to weathering, there's nothing to it if you use the Bragdon or AIM powders. It's a snap to apply them and if you don't like it just wash the powder off and start again. Oh, one other thing I did to the units to make it easier to get the shells off. I cut out the section of the pilot beneath the couplers so I don't have to take them off again. The couplers are a royal pain to put back on.
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Thanks Jeffrey for the inspiration. How do you apply the powders, and do you have to use a airbrush? Can I do this without an airbrush, I can't invest in one now. Do Rattle cans work ok?

Who sells those powders?
 
Motley said:
Thanks Jeffrey for the inspiration. How do you apply the powders, and do you have to use a airbrush? Can I do this without an airbrush, I can't invest in one now. Do Rattle cans work ok?

Who sells those powders?
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I get the AIM powder through Walthers. A set like I have runs $40 but they're on sale right now so they can be gotten for slightly less. I use a Testor's model paint brush to apply the powder. Just touch it down in the powder then brush it onto the model. Stipple it to make it stick better. The more you stipple it the better it sticks. I usually then brush the powder downward so the weathering looks more natural instead of blotted on. One car can be done in about 10 minutes and that's if I'm taking my time.
 
jeffrey-wimberly said:
I get the AIM powder through Walthers. A set like I have runs $40 but they're on sale right now so they can be gotten for slightly less. I use a Testor's model paint brush to apply the powder. Just touch it down in the powder then brush it onto the model. Stipple it to make it stick better. The more you stipple it the better it sticks. I usually then brush the powder downward so the weathering looks more natural instead of blotted on. One car can be done in about 10 minutes and that's if I'm taking my time.
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OK thanks, I will order some of those powders, my LHS doesn't have those. Also, they have the floquil weathering spray cans, do those work well? I might pick a can up and try it out tonight.

btw, what do you mean by stiple it?
 


I sprayed the tank with Valspar Clear Flat until it got a white haze to make the UP gray look faded then put on patches of black weathering powder.
 
The U.P. looks like a Tyco/Mantua. Clean it up good and it will run great. If you have contact trouble in the tender remove the trucks and clean the contact area very good. Be careful to not loose the wavey washer between the truck and tender as that is an intricate part and doubt if you can find a replacement. If the tender wheels are brass you can replace them with IHC passenger coach wheel sets http://www.ihc-hobby.com/cgi/bsc.cgi?sn=78J24629I35JG091B0256F48061710 which might be hard to find now. Those are the only problems I know of with Mantua steam and that is not on all of them only some of the older ones.
 
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Lester Perry said:
If you have contact trouble in the tender remove the trucks and clean the contact area very good.
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I would suggest the use of CRC 2-26. Spray on just a little and let is sit for minute then work it around then wipe it off. It will leave a protective film that will also help increase the conductivity. Look for it in the electrical dept of your local home improvement store. I get mine at Lowe's.
 
I have that exact same UP 4-6-2. I have been thinking of putting a new motor in it, mine doesn't seem to like DCC. Must be the open frame...

Has anyone done anything like that? I must admit, it would be my first time trying.
 


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