CambriaArea51
Well-Known Member
Thank you. I need to get a rack for the paint.
Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread
- Thread starter TLOC
- Start date
ModelRailroadForums.com is a free Model Railroad Discussion Forum and photo gallery. We cover all scales and sizes of model railroads. Online since 2002, it's one of the oldest and largest model railroad forums on the web. Whether you're a master model railroader or just getting started, you'll find something of interest here.
I have a buddy who we occasionally operate on his layout. He worked 7 years for the CSS and says he’s seen the inside of more coil cars that he cares to remember. He says COVERED coil cars never got this rusty. However, later he said I depicted a coil car very accurately that doesn’t use the covers. I told him I’ve never seen the floor of a coil car even though I’ve seen many videos. So I based my weathering on how abused the covers were. This client strangely enough did not want any graffiti or tagging.
Either way, my next car will not be as rusty but the covers will be pretty used. Even though I changed my approach a couple times while weathering the car, this was a fun project. I ended up changing over to Arcylic paint after selling the car instead of using oils on the covers. I’d still be working on it if I had used the oils. The next one for me will be oils
I found a companion covered hopper on line #77039 in a 2011 photo but with cleaner sides. We are heading out to a Musical but I have some ideas how I would weather this car.
Do you use an air brush or a hand brush to weather?
My plan.
No fade
Apply an overall background color (maybe a dirty beige earth brown color mix) applied as a wash
Apply with a makeup sponge between each panel a light rust color
Apply again but with a slightly darker rust color
Counting from the left edge of the car, Panels 1, 5,6, 12 and possibly 17 have a grayish color to them. Mix a gray color to match the photo and YOUR eye and apply within those panels, pull down straight. I’d use a flat brush
Apply if satisfied with the colors a Clear color with a matte finish. Let it dry over night
If this is the type of info you want fine I can continue, let me know
Affiliate Disclosure: We may receive a commision from some of the links and ads shown on this website (Learn More Here)
- Status
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Back at the coil cars!
The cars upon arrival
Interiors as shown previously
Underneath
This was this morning. Just too overdone or something. It just didn’t feel right. Never sent these pictures to the client. This is what happens when I don’t have a reference photo for inspiration and guidance.
I removed the previous weathering including the texture. While I prefer these done this afternoon to the morning pictures it still needs another layer of grime. That white needs to be blended better with the rest of the weathering on the cover. These covers show more of the original colors than before. That’s what I wanted. Tomorrow’s next layer of grime will be more of a blend than a covering. In person the rust texture really pops!
The interior of the coil car.
The main coloring here is Vallejo Panzer Aces light rust dabbed with a mop brush. Then I took some light rust pigment and dabbed that on while the paint was still wet. There is now a texturing of rust inside the car. I then took a hair dryer to dry this concoction. When dry in less than 5 minutes I dabbed Vallejo Air burnt umber. In the morning I will spritz the car interior and add a darker rust pigment hoping to get a better blend of color and add to the texture.
The coil car was faded quite heavily. See the first photo. There’s not much area to work on besides the interior and the covers. But I have added dark rust in spots.
Interiors as shown previously
Underneath
This was this morning. Just too overdone or something. It just didn’t feel right. Never sent these pictures to the client. This is what happens when I don’t have a reference photo for inspiration and guidance.
The interior of the coil car.
The main coloring here is Vallejo Panzer Aces light rust dabbed with a mop brush. Then I took some light rust pigment and dabbed that on while the paint was still wet. There is now a texturing of rust inside the car. I then took a hair dryer to dry this concoction. When dry in less than 5 minutes I dabbed Vallejo Air burnt umber. In the morning I will spritz the car interior and add a darker rust pigment hoping to get a better blend of color and add to the texture.
The coil car was faded quite heavily. See the first photo. There’s not much area to work on besides the interior and the covers. But I have added dark rust in spots.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Paint racks!
I use Aryclic nail polish shelf pieces for holding most of my everyday paints. Some came from Target and one of the step ups came from Michaels.
On the wall is a nail polish holder from Target. Was a 6 piece unit! Was a gift. Each shelf hold 17 of the Vallejo dropper bottles
I also have 1 drawer unit near the bench
It holds some odds and ends type of paints and some of my most used pigments
Part of my Tamiya collection is in a step up unit from Target
A corner unit basically used now for miscellaneous items including some thinners
I have 5 holders for Pan Pastels holding 25 of my 41 pastel pans. I find I use maybe 5 PP colors on a regular basis
Finally my catch all storage unit that started out mainly for oil paint storage.
Part of what’s left of my weathering bench at the house. 2’ deep x 50” long. This bench has been with me since 2015 through many moves and remodels!
I use Aryclic nail polish shelf pieces for holding most of my everyday paints. Some came from Target and one of the step ups came from Michaels.
On the wall is a nail polish holder from Target. Was a 6 piece unit! Was a gift. Each shelf hold 17 of the Vallejo dropper bottles
I also have 1 drawer unit near the bench
It holds some odds and ends type of paints and some of my most used pigments
Part of my Tamiya collection is in a step up unit from Target
A corner unit basically used now for miscellaneous items including some thinners
I have 5 holders for Pan Pastels holding 25 of my 41 pastel pans. I find I use maybe 5 PP colors on a regular basis
Finally my catch all storage unit that started out mainly for oil paint storage.
Part of what’s left of my weathering bench at the house. 2’ deep x 50” long. This bench has been with me since 2015 through many moves and remodels!
TLOC
Well-Known Member
My client says the coil car is fine!
A final matte clear coat today and off to Florida on Thursday via the UPS . Generally I use the USPS which normally is cheaper and 3 days. UPS is $4.00 more and 5 days but shipping east of the Mississippi River has had its ups and downs since the new year for the USPS. . Client said he wanted UPS, therefore UPS it is
A final matte clear coat today and off to Florida on Thursday via the UPS . Generally I use the USPS which normally is cheaper and 3 days. UPS is $4.00 more and 5 days but shipping east of the Mississippi River has had its ups and downs since the new year for the USPS. . Client said he wanted UPS, therefore UPS it is
CambriaArea51
Well-Known Member
Tom, those coil cars look so good they need sandblasting and painting.
traiNscale
Well-Known Member
Damn Tom
Those cars looking awesome.
some questions: what are those round seetrough storage things? are there cables in it or what are those?
also, what diorama is above your bench? or is this a part of your layout?
cheers
marco
Those cars looking awesome.
some questions: what are those round seetrough storage things? are there cables in it or what are those?
also, what diorama is above your bench? or is this a part of your layout?
cheers
marco
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Thank you, I’ll take that as A good thing because that what me and the client were looking for.
I have a buddy who we occasionally operate on his layout. He worked 7 years for the CSS and says he’s seen the inside of more coil cars that he cares to remember. He says COVERED coil cars never got this rusty. However, later he said I depicted a coil car very accurately that doesn’t use the covers. I told him I’ve never seen the floor of a coil car even though I’ve seen many videos. So I based my weathering on how abused the covers were. This client strangely enough did not want any graffiti or tagging.
Either way, my next car will not be as rusty but the covers will be pretty used. Even though I changed my approach a couple times while weathering the car, this was a fun project. I ended up changing over to Arcylic paint after selling the car instead of using oils on the covers. I’d still be working on it if I had used the oils. The next one for me will be oils
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Marco!
The round silver things are Intermountain Railway Companies version of the steel coil. This car while distributed by HomeShopsLLC.net was produced for them by Intermountain. It’s a very nicely done car with Intermountain’s normal amount of nice but too delicate details. But it is light. These silver coils are heavy and while I have not weighed them I will today.
According to my buddy who worked for the real Chicago South Shore Railroad whose main customers still are the steel mills on the Chicago southside and Northern Indiana near Gary so I will believe him. He says the coils are just lifted into those slots without any dunnage, strapping or blocking. His claim is it takes a derailment to shift those coils in cars like these
The coils weigh in excess of 25,000 pounds each. Usually the mills will place 6 coils in a car. This model car because of the spacing only will hold 4 standard coils. Typical Intermountain compression or screw up
dunnage /dŭn′ĭj/
I will get some updated pictures of what is above my workbench. Originally this section was part of my continuous run when I added the lift out section across the aisle. I now just run point to point. The business depicted is a plastic extrusion company. It was and still is my programming track. It is no longer used as part of the layout.
The round silver things are Intermountain Railway Companies version of the steel coil. This car while distributed by HomeShopsLLC.net was produced for them by Intermountain. It’s a very nicely done car with Intermountain’s normal amount of nice but too delicate details. But it is light. These silver coils are heavy and while I have not weighed them I will today.
According to my buddy who worked for the real Chicago South Shore Railroad whose main customers still are the steel mills on the Chicago southside and Northern Indiana near Gary so I will believe him. He says the coils are just lifted into those slots without any dunnage, strapping or blocking. His claim is it takes a derailment to shift those coils in cars like these
The coils weigh in excess of 25,000 pounds each. Usually the mills will place 6 coils in a car. This model car because of the spacing only will hold 4 standard coils. Typical Intermountain compression or screw up
dunnage /dŭn′ĭj/
noun
- Loose packing material used to protect a ship's cargo from damage during transport.
- Personal baggage.
- Fagots, boughs, or loose materials of any kind, laid on the bottom of the hold for the cargo to rest upon to prevent injury by water, or stowed among casks and other cargo to prevent their motion.
I will get some updated pictures of what is above my workbench. Originally this section was part of my continuous run when I added the lift out section across the aisle. I now just run point to point. The business depicted is a plastic extrusion company. It was and still is my programming track. It is no longer used as part of the layout.
traiNscale
Well-Known Member
naaa tom i dont mean the rollingstock 
i mean those:
i mean those:
PAN PASTEL chalks
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Ok my bad! As Marlin39 said those are Pan Pastel pans. They are a pastel for weathering. Used like chalks or powders but are more of a pastel like a women’s make up. Just another tool in the arsenal for weathering. Probably the easiest medium IMO to learn how to weather
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Thank you. I also really like version 2
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Marco asked about the layout section above my work bench
No longer used as part of the layout it was originally designed as my experiment in scenery and programming track. It then evolved into part of the continuous loop. Then when we moved out and 18 months later returned it basically now is just a minor programming track for lowering volume in diesels and programming the diesel number to the decoder. Any non basic programming is done at a few friends programming benches that use Decoder Pro and/or Lokprogrammers
The plastic extrusion plant
Not one to hide the true workings of a work bench. I was sort of in the process of cleaning up when a delivery arrived and I had to open up and inspect a new diesel arrival
This is the 1st view when stepping into the actual train room. It’s not usually this messy
No longer used as part of the layout it was originally designed as my experiment in scenery and programming track. It then evolved into part of the continuous loop. Then when we moved out and 18 months later returned it basically now is just a minor programming track for lowering volume in diesels and programming the diesel number to the decoder. Any non basic programming is done at a few friends programming benches that use Decoder Pro and/or Lokprogrammers
The plastic extrusion plant
Not one to hide the true workings of a work bench. I was sort of in the process of cleaning up when a delivery arrived and I had to open up and inspect a new diesel arrival
This is the 1st view when stepping into the actual train room. It’s not usually this messy
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Sometimes when you are all messed up you don’t know it or recognize it! I took those above pictures of my bench. Wow! That triggered me. That maybe the most messy the bench has been in months
Just a few minutes ago and more like it between projects
Yes I still build wire armature trees. 3 experiments in the picture below
I even feel better with a cleaner bench top
Just a few minutes ago and more like it between projects
kjd
Go make something!
How would you do this car? Appologies to the original photographer, I didn't note them or where I found the photo. I usually use acrylic craft paint from JoAnns but couldn't figure out a process to get this look. I don't know what it is carrying but the rust on the walkways at the ends and new(ish) hatch covers makes me think it might be corrosive. Salt maybe or is that grain spilled on the far end, right above the XTRA lettering and the weathering is just being 32 years old? The photo is from PA in 2012.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
It’s my understanding those long hatches are more for agriculture products than aggregates but also it maybe fertilizer. These hatches also look like they have recently been replaced and that was common on grain cars.
I found a companion covered hopper on line #77039 in a 2011 photo but with cleaner sides. We are heading out to a Musical but I have some ideas how I would weather this car.
Do you use an air brush or a hand brush to weather?
TLOC
Well-Known Member
No airbrush!
My plan.
No fade
Apply an overall background color (maybe a dirty beige earth brown color mix) applied as a wash
Apply with a makeup sponge between each panel a light rust color
Apply again but with a slightly darker rust color
Counting from the left edge of the car, Panels 1, 5,6, 12 and possibly 17 have a grayish color to them. Mix a gray color to match the photo and YOUR eye and apply within those panels, pull down straight. I’d use a flat brush
Apply if satisfied with the colors a Clear color with a matte finish. Let it dry over night
If this is the type of info you want fine I can continue, let me know
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Not quite the same car KJD is asking about in the above posts but close enough. Not enough ribs!
But, I can weather this one.
It had an unsealed light weathering on it that was mostly PanPastels and AK Interactive weathering pencils. Easily removed with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol.
Same plan as above. It’s inspected and the wheels and trucks are weathered and will be removed
No fade. I will hand brush a background cover. A light but earthy color. Let me do that and come back in an hour or so with pictures and what colors I used
Here’s the car after a quick cleaning. I believe this guy is from Accurail, but not 100% sure
I’m going to do this while working on other weathering projects
I have done wheel and truck frames here before. I’ll dig into what pages those are at
But, I can weather this one.
It had an unsealed light weathering on it that was mostly PanPastels and AK Interactive weathering pencils. Easily removed with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol.
Same plan as above. It’s inspected and the wheels and trucks are weathered and will be removed
No fade. I will hand brush a background cover. A light but earthy color. Let me do that and come back in an hour or so with pictures and what colors I used
Here’s the car after a quick cleaning. I believe this guy is from Accurail, but not 100% sure
I’m going to do this while working on other weathering projects
I have done wheel and truck frames here before. I’ll dig into what pages those are at
- Status
Affiliate Disclosure: We may receive a commision from some of the links and ads shown on this website (Learn More Here)