CambriaArea51
Well-Known Member
Tom, I had a couple of those Walthers high cube cars. I did them as fairly new with light weathering and dull coat. Bearings are painted blue as they are when new.
Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread
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Powders and fingers leave fingerprints and we don’t want the authorities finding us through our rail cars
The fade on the box is good.
The roof looks good, but if you wanted to lighten it a dull coat or some gray or silver thinned.
As for the trucks I like how they are done. The wheels could be done in a different tone to offset them from the trucks plus it gives it depth whether they are darker or lighter.
That’s a good point on the wheels. I will do that. Pictures later.
The roof. I was going to do a mat clear to seal it. I will now add a couple drops of Tamiya x-21 base to the VMS mat clear and see what happens.
Appreciate the advice
thanks
Now I need to tone down the rust streaks on the trucks. I want to see some but with a better blending of the color. The orange rust stands out too much when I place the car on the tracks
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TLOC
Well-Known Member
Great work, absolute great advice on the gloves.
Powders and fingers leave fingerprints and we don’t want the authorities finding us through our rail cars
TLOC
Well-Known Member
I am dirtying the roof and faded the side panels. Some dirt collecting in the door tracks but that should be it on the first car. Glad you mentioned the blue bearings. Thanks and your car looks great
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TLOC
Well-Known Member
Some dirt for the roof and door sliders.
1st burnt umber thinned with water till it looks right, maybe 60% water to 40% paint. Burnt umber from Vallejo Air, the number is on the bottle shown in the picture.
The station!
Then I take the brush dipped into plain water (center cap is the water but now used) and apply to the roof panels. While those panels (usually 2) are wet I apply the thinned burnt umber mix to the MIDDLE of the panel. It will spread out and cover the panel, if not, just touch somemore of the thinned burnt umber to the panel
No rush, just do a couple at a time
Voila, set your timer for 20 minutes and do something else. I decided to lightly touch the door sliders and ladder rungs and see how it turns our
I will let it dry and see where it’s at and how I like it. The roof will need a couple more shades of color but nothing too dark and rusty. I will not be doing a panel liner along the side ribs. I think the fade is enough. Am I right?
Later!
1st burnt umber thinned with water till it looks right, maybe 60% water to 40% paint. Burnt umber from Vallejo Air, the number is on the bottle shown in the picture.
The station!
Then I take the brush dipped into plain water (center cap is the water but now used) and apply to the roof panels. While those panels (usually 2) are wet I apply the thinned burnt umber mix to the MIDDLE of the panel. It will spread out and cover the panel, if not, just touch somemore of the thinned burnt umber to the panel
No rush, just do a couple at a time
Voila, set your timer for 20 minutes and do something else. I decided to lightly touch the door sliders and ladder rungs and see how it turns our
I will let it dry and see where it’s at and how I like it. The roof will need a couple more shades of color but nothing too dark and rusty. I will not be doing a panel liner along the side ribs. I think the fade is enough. Am I right?
Later!
TLOC
Well-Known Member
This is not real time, there was at least 2 hours from the actual weathering in my post above till now.
Trucks are weathered and have a mat clear coat applied.
Wheels added
CambriaArea51 showed that he painted the bearings which I very much appreciate, as I had not. Thanks Tom
one of the few times I use Arcylics from Michael’s
Microbrush dipped into the paint cap and added to the bearing. I then take the truck and dab it while still wet into a wool white sock to remove the access and show the detail
Finally the roof. The burnt umber wash has dried. I am on the fence with this. I knew it needed more work but it maybe too rusted already compared to the rest of the car.
This car is pushed aside while I work on the other car
Trucks are weathered and have a mat clear coat applied.
Wheels added
CambriaArea51 showed that he painted the bearings which I very much appreciate, as I had not. Thanks Tom
one of the few times I use Arcylics from Michael’s
Microbrush dipped into the paint cap and added to the bearing. I then take the truck and dab it while still wet into a wool white sock to remove the access and show the detail
Finally the roof. The burnt umber wash has dried. I am on the fence with this. I knew it needed more work but it maybe too rusted already compared to the rest of the car.
This car is pushed aside while I work on the other car
CambriaArea51
Well-Known Member
Thank you.
The fade on the box is good.
The roof looks good, but if you wanted to lighten it a dull coat or some gray or silver thinned.
As for the trucks I like how they are done. The wheels could be done in a different tone to offset them from the trucks plus it gives it depth whether they are darker or lighter.
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
I like that, I think it's right, any more rust and you'd probably have to do more to the sides to match.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Thanks.
That’s a good point on the wheels. I will do that. Pictures later.
The roof. I was going to do a mat clear to seal it. I will now add a couple drops of Tamiya x-21 base to the VMS mat clear and see what happens.
Appreciate the advice
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Agreed. If the roof goes rustier then the sides need to have at least rust streaking. That’s not going happen on this one.
thanks
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
One of my first lessons I taught myself was to use gloves, I think I had more paint on my hands than I did on the model, since then always use at least one glove, so much easier.
CambriaArea51
Well-Known Member
Tom, the wheels look good.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Thank you. I am glad you mentioned it.
Now I need to tone down the rust streaks on the trucks. I want to see some but with a better blending of the color. The orange rust stands out too much when I place the car on the tracks
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
I want to try the Tamiya paints, but I think as I run out of Vellejo ones I'll replace it with a Tamiya one. I've ordered the XF-86 flat clear, which I think is the one you use as well and the XF-52 flat earth, I'll give them a try and see how that goes for me.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
I have been using a few different mat or flat clear finishes.
Of course Testors dull cote in a spray can. It is now very hard to find in my area and I have no cans in inventory. I don’t bother buying it in the bottle as like the spray can the smell is too strong. Makes my applied Pan Pastels disappear no matter how far away I spray from the model.
I currently am using VMS clear mat varnish applied from the air brush. I believe it’s dries as clear and hard as the Testors without the smell that I no longer can tolerate. IMO it seems that’s it’s not as aggressive as Testors and does not melt away the applied Pan Pastels. Applied at 15-20PSI.
I have the Tamiya x86 that I have used thinned with Isopropyl Alcohol in the airbrush. It IMO is as aggressive as Testors was but it doesn’t have the smell. Makes my Pan Pastels almost disappear.
Of course Testors dull cote in a spray can. It is now very hard to find in my area and I have no cans in inventory. I don’t bother buying it in the bottle as like the spray can the smell is too strong. Makes my applied Pan Pastels disappear no matter how far away I spray from the model.
I currently am using VMS clear mat varnish applied from the air brush. I believe it’s dries as clear and hard as the Testors without the smell that I no longer can tolerate. IMO it seems that’s it’s not as aggressive as Testors and does not melt away the applied Pan Pastels. Applied at 15-20PSI.
I have the Tamiya x86 that I have used thinned with Isopropyl Alcohol in the airbrush. It IMO is as aggressive as Testors was but it doesn’t have the smell. Makes my Pan Pastels almost disappear.
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
They've turned out really great, fantastic work as always Tom
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Thank you. These were fun. Fading and some rust/dirt on the roof. Thanks for the positive vibes.
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