Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread

[TLOC]

Here in NY a lot of them are on feet. They are older so that might have something to do with it.

Either way, those look great. When I am out and about tomorrow guess what I will be looking at?

 

[TLOC]

A lot of times those trapezoidal footings are used where three ground freezes and thaws regularly. The base wider at the bottom locks it into the soil and prevents frost heave, which could throw the shanty off kilter and damage the signal cabling.

Here in Wisconsin foundations need to go below the frost line. A flat slab can float and that maybe what CN uses with flexible connections. I suppose feet can be done the same

 

[TLOC]

SMUDGE617 I saw in the diner you are frustrated with your practicing.

We are here to help. Thank you for the compliment in the diner but one thing you may have read somewhere in the 35 pages of this thread. When we all started out it wasn’t easy. When I came back to my airbrush in 2014 I couldn’t get paint to spray out of the airbrush. Why do I now have 7 airbrushes? Because I thought it was the equipment, not the operator. I now only use 2 for weathering and 1 for clear coating.

Play with the PSI. Play with the adjustments on your air brush. Thin your paint more, or maybe less. It’s an experiment but jot down the things that are working for you. Light coats, layer, layer! Let us know…

 

[CambriaArea51]

SMUDGE617 I saw in the diner you are frustrated with your practicing.

We are here to help. Thank you for the compliment in the diner but one thing you may have read somewhere in the 35 pages of this thread. When we all started out it wasn’t easy. When I came back to my airbrush in 2014 I couldn’t get paint to spray out of the airbrush. Why do I now have 7 airbrushes? Because I thought it was the equipment, not the operator. I now only use 2 for weathering and 1 for clear coating.

Play with the PSI. Play with the adjustments on your air brush. Thin your paint more, or maybe less. It’s an experiment but jot down the things that are working for you. Light coats, layer, layer! Let us know…

All that and you have to get a feel for distance. How far you have the airbrush away from what you are spraying and how much is coming out. If you notice in my pics the news paper has lots of test spray spots. I adjust the flow for what I'm doing before it hits the model. I've never been much on thinning the paint but that could be the type of airbrush I have. I've never used powders up until 2 years ago when certain paints were becoming hard to find. Now it's a mixture of both which I end up using less paint, plus the powers are nice in those hard to reach places.

 

[Smudge617]

SMUDGE617 I saw in the diner you are frustrated with your practicing.

We are here to help. Thank you for the compliment in the diner but one thing you may have read somewhere in the 35 pages of this thread. When we all started out it wasn’t easy. When I came back to my airbrush in 2014 I couldn’t get paint to spray out of the airbrush. Why do I now have 7 airbrushes? Because I thought it was the equipment, not the operator. I now only use 2 for weathering and 1 for clear coating.

Play with the PSI. Play with the adjustments on your air brush. Thin your paint more, or maybe less. It’s an experiment but jot down the things that are working for you. Light coats, layer, layer! Let us know…

All that and you have to get a feel for distance. How far you have the airbrush away from what you are spraying and how much is coming out. If you notice in my pics the news paper has lots of test spray spots. I adjust the flow for what I'm doing before it hits the model. I've never been much on thinning the paint but that could be the type of airbrush I have. I've never used powders up until 2 years ago when certain paints were becoming hard to find. Now it's a mixture of both which I end up using less paint, plus the powers are nice in those hard to reach places.

Thank's TomO, I appreciate that, I have (had) the bad habit of thinning the paint to much and ended up with very watery looking paint when applied, I stopped thinning the paint at all now, as I mostly use Vellejo air paint I don't need to thin it (according to Vellejo's bumpf anyway), that seems to be working. Although I'll thin it for something like a fading effect, but I'm a long way away from trying that.

My frustration was that I couldn't get an even initial coat, I wasn't trying to weather it, just change it from a dark colour to white which would make it easier for me to see the weathering effect, and practise different techniques as CambriaArea51 has mentioned, how far away I need to be to create a different effect without overpainting it, as well as how fast or slow I need to move the airbrush at different pressure settings to get that effect I'm looking for.

 

[TLOC]

Thank's TomO, I appreciate that, I have (had) the bad habit of thinning the paint to much and ended up with very watery looking paint when applied, I stopped thinning the paint at all now, as I mostly use Vellejo air paint I don't need to thin it (according to Vellejo's bumpf anyway), that seems to be working. Although I'll thin it for something like a fading effect, but I'm a long way away from trying that.

My frustration was that I couldn't get an even initial coat, I wasn't trying to weather it, just change it from a dark colour to white which would make it easier for me to see the weathering effect, and practise different techniques as CambriaArea51 has mentioned, how far away I need to be to create a different effect without overpainting it, as well as how fast or slow I need to move the airbrush at different pressure settings to get that effect I'm looking for.

I occasionally thin Vallejo Paints but it depends on what I am trying. My main go to base coating paint now is Tamiya Arcylics but that was after years of trying other things. You will get there and the frustration is understandable. Lots of good “how to airbrush“ tutorials out there on You Tube

I see Alan responded in the Diner

 

[Espeefan]

Thank's TomO, I appreciate that, I have (had) the bad habit of thinning the paint to much and ended up with very watery looking paint when applied, I stopped thinning the paint at all now, as I mostly use Vellejo air paint I don't need to thin it (according to Vellejo's bumpf anyway), that seems to be working. Although I'll thin it for something like a fading effect, but I'm a long way away from trying that.

My frustration was that I couldn't get an even initial coat, I wasn't trying to weather it, just change it from a dark colour to white which would make it easier for me to see the weathering effect, and practise different techniques as CambriaArea51 has mentioned, how far away I need to be to create a different effect without overpainting it, as well as how fast or slow I need to move the airbrush at different pressure settings to get that effect I'm looking for.

Use the skim milk rule. Paint should be thinned until it leaves a skin on the cup just like when you've finished drinking a glass of milk. I know Vallejo says you don't need to thin but just like with cars, "Your mileage may vary!" I've found that when spraying model air, a little of their flow improver works wonders, and I also thin their paint slightly. The only bad thing about acrylics is they dry very fast, so you can get dry spray (sandy or orange peel effects). Just hang in there. It'll come. Whatever you do don't let it dry in the airbrush!

 

[TLOC]

Use the skim milk rule. Paint should be thinned until it leaves a skin on the cup just like when you've finished drinking a glass of milk. I know Vallejo says you don't need to thin but just like with cars, "Your mileage may vary!" I've found that when spraying model air, a little of their flow improver works wonders, and I also thin their paint slightly. The only bad thing about acrylics is they dry very fast, so you can get dry spray (sandy or orange peel effects). Just hand in there. It'll come. Whatever you do don't let it dry in the airbrush!

Excellent advice.

 

[Smudge617]

Use the skim milk rule. Paint should be thinned until it leaves a skin on the cup just like when you've finished drinking a glass of milk. I know Vallejo says you don't need to thin but just like with cars, "Your mileage may vary!" I've found that when spraying model air, a little of their flow improver works wonders, and I also thin their paint slightly. The only bad thing about acrylics is they dry very fast, so you can get dry spray (sandy or orange peel effects). Just hang in there. It'll come. Whatever you do don't let it dry in the airbrush!

Paint drying in the airbrush was a major problem that I had, but after watching a tutorial on YT, I found my problem was when I released the trigger, I didn't keep it depressed to allow air through the nozzle and clear any paint.
I've got the improver, but haven't tried it out yet, but I'll have to, I'm not getting great milage with the paint as it is, I would like to extend it by about 25% if I can, but first things first.

 

[Smudge617]

This in one of my practice cars, I started out just painting it a white with a aluminium roof, as I've already posted.

Any advice or criticism welcome.

Just tried to dull this up a little, worked to some extent, but as you can see I've overpainted it in some places.

Just tried to add some mud along the bottom edge here. Ignore the trucks, this is a Triang model, so the trucks are riveted on.

 

[TLOC]

I wasn’t planning to be at the bench but the 1st NFL game wasn’t until 3:50 CST. SO…

Packed these 2 up for shipping out on Monday

Yes, I put up this morning a couple sections of the layout. Pictures IMO look better on ballasted track with background structures

the above 3 tankers were up next on my personal to do list, but things change. Picture taken on a temporary section of the layout, never finished

the above 2 TBOX cars were in line but not for awhile. This is a picture before the layout was removed. On Saturday I weathered the trucks, wheels, couplers, faded the bodies and moved them a shelf waiting their turn. Both cars have build dates of 2013 and the prototype pictures are 2017 and are still clean except for the trucks. You can see the body fade. That’s what I am going to try to achieve. Just a few weeks earlier than planned.

2 similar cars above in the number series but not the actual numbers I will be weathering. Using as an example

stay tuned as I hope this is a quick experience

 

[TLOC]

This in one of my practice cars, I started out just painting it a white with a aluminium roof, as I've already posted.

Any advice or criticism welcome.

View attachment 159960
View attachment 159961

Just tried to dull this up a little, worked to some extent, but as you can see I've overpainted it in some places.

View attachment 159965

View attachment 159962

Just tried to add some mud along the bottom edge here. Ignore the trucks, this is a Triang model, so the trucks are riveted on.

View attachment 159963

Chris, Looks to me you are on the right track, (pun intended). I like the roof. The sides I am unsure due to the lighting. But I like it for a base body color. If you have texture issues I am not seeing it. Keep going

 

[Smudge617]

Chris, Looks to me you are on the right track, (pun intended). I like the roof. The sides I am unsure due to the lighting. But I like it for a base body color. If you have texture issues I am not seeing it. Keep going

Thank's for the encouragement. I tried doing some rust streaks, not at all what I intended, I'll have to strip it back and try again.

 

[TLOC]

Thank's for the encouragement. I tried doing some rust streaks, not at all what I intended, I'll have to strip it back and try again.

R u streaking using your Vallejo paints?

 

[Smudge617]

R u streaking using your Vallejo paints?

Yes, I think I need to use powders.

 

[TLOC]

Yes, I think I need to use powders.

Arcylics dry too quickly to create consistent streaking. You could try a method with your Vallejo colors by using water applied to the surface and apply the Vallejo on that. Its called wet on wet and it’s a bit more complicated then I just described. It will give you a wash effect not actual streaking. You should seal your base color before proceeding to streaking

Pan Pastels I am very familiar with and I have done some chalk weathering. Use a small micro brush to apply PP for streaks. I think the same for chalks.

Before applying the PP or chalks you need to apply a mat clear coat. That will give the weathering powders, chalks or PP a tooth to grip to.

There are weathering products for streaking and grime available from AK Interactive.

If you have the powders, chalks or Pan Pastels i would try those 1st. Again layering is best practice.

Are you getting more satisfied using the air brush? Better results? My suggestion is be comfortable with the air brush before you start the next step.

 

[Smudge617]

Arcylics dry too quickly to create consistent streaking. You could try a method with your Vallejo colors by using water applied to the surface and apply the Vallejo on that. Its called wet on wet and it’s a bit more complicated then I just described. It will give you a wash effect not actual streaking. You should seal your base color before proceeding to streaking

Pan Pastels I am very familiar with and I have done some chalk weathering. Use a small micro brush to apply PP for streaks. I think the same for chalks.

Before applying the PP or chalks you need to apply a mat clear coat. That will give the weathering powders, chalks or PP a tooth to grip to.

There are weathering products for streaking and grime available from AK Interactive.

If you have the powders, chalks or Pan Pastels i would try those 1st. Again layering is best practice.

Are you getting more satisfied using the air brush? Better results? My suggestion is be comfortable with the air brush before you start the next step.

Yes, I think I'm trying to run before I can walk with trying to do rust streaks, I used the wet on wet method, and it turned out exactly as you said, more like a wash.

The airbrushing is coming along, I've got more of a feel controlling the amount of paint I use, but still making the odd splodge of paint here and there, but more practice should get me there.

I've got some powders I used on my structures, I may try and use them while I'm waiting for the paint to dry, the're the wrong colours for cars anyway.

Thanks for the advice, I really appreciate it.

 

[santafewillie]

Yes, I think I need to use powders.

I have always found powders work best for me for streaking.

 

[CambriaArea51]

When using powders where rubber gloves. The oil from your fingers will get on the car and the powders will bring out your prints. Powders you'll need a few different brushes, some stiff some soft. It was a learning experience for me and a little goes a long way and I mean little.
This grain car I used a micro brush to go down the seams then a wide soft brush down the length of the seam and then the length of the car (side to side) with a little pressure.

 

[CambriaArea51]

Two more tank cars done.