Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread

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31216 or is it 30216 for the number. Checking online photos your right in there with coloring. I could not find the number but here is a series of cars near the 2 numbers above.

First off, you are doing the weathering for yourself but… When someone else sees the car they are not going to say that’s not how the real one is. My advice, try to keep rust streaks straight. Pooling of the paint happens as dirt and rust gather in along the ribs and on the top edge of the bottom sill of the car. That’s real!

Looks like the cars were built 1954 to 1962, so get them dirty.

I love the wheel stop in the 1st picture of UP 30334
A5520BB8-FDFE-403D-B2D1-81224AFD8193.jpeg
4CDEDE9D-56B0-461E-8565-54775AE93F79.jpeg
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54200DB7-7502-46E3-BADB-EEA57760FC39.jpeg
C152F7FB-B5CF-4656-A779-59B9304ABB24.jpeg
 
TLOC said:
1st attempt! Heck, I have seen the work by guys who get paid and don’t do as well. Your fade is nicely done, especially on the letters. Everything looks on this side to be running from top to bottom. Smudge, if you don’t like it just keep adding washes to it. Brown or the oxide red colors in my book along with the dark green or dark blues are tough to weather and get rust effects. I see Vallejo Air color bottles, they are very forgiving if you want to change up. Are you spraying or hand brushing?

Play with it and remember, there is a prototype for everything out there. Have fun with it. If you still dislike it, strip it down and start over. That’s always fun and sometimes the strip down leaves an effect you may love
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Wow, I'm :D from ear to ear with you saying that, thank you.

I didn't find those particular foto's, but used a few others I found, yours are better I think. The ones I have were taken earlier in the cars life, mine aren't quite so distressed.

I actually cheated with the fading on the lettering, (99% IPA and a cotton bud). I used about 8 or 9 dark umber washes on the body, using a brush and sponge alternately to try and get some depth.

I thought about using the airbrush for part of it, but wasn't confident I could pull it off, without making a real mess with it.

I've matt varnished it as it is, so I don't lose what I've done, but getting the rust streaks is causing me a headache, trying to find a medium colour that is light enough to show against the body, but dark enough to look like rust, think I need to do some more research about rust colours.

The Vellejo colours I like because they wash off under warm water even when dry when I get it wrong, which I did several times yesterday, but I'll keep trying.

santafewillie said:
Very good for a first attempt. Clouding can be caused by using alcohol on a car previously spray-painted with some brands of dull coat. I've read that the cloudiness can be corrected by another spraying of dull coat, but I haven't ever needed to try.
Click to expand...

Thanks Willie, your suggestion definately works.
 
Smudge617 said:
Wow, I'm :D from ear to ear with you saying that, thank you.

I didn't find those particular foto's, but used a few others I found, yours are better I think. The ones I have were taken earlier in the cars life, mine aren't quite so distressed.

I actually cheated with the fading on the lettering, (99% IPA and a cotton bud). I used about 8 or 9 dark umber washes on the body, using a brush and sponge alternately to try and get some depth.

I thought about using the airbrush for part of it, but wasn't confident I could pull it off, without making a real mess with it.

I've matt varnished it as it is, so I don't lose what I've done, but getting the rust streaks is causing me a headache, trying to find a medium colour that is light enough to show against the body, but dark enough to look like rust, think I need to do some more research about rust colours.

The Vellejo colours I like because they wash off under warm water even when dry when I get it wrong, which I did several times yesterday, but I'll keep trying.



Thanks Willie, your suggestion definately works.
Click to expand...
Rusting a brownish color car like I wrote before I find difficult. Using those prototype pictures shows much of that rust as almost black. Photos are credited on eachpicture by photographer and the site I used them from.

Railcarphotos.com

I highly recommend as it’s so easy to search for individual cars by numbers. If they don’t have the number they usually have numbers in the series the car was built. Many of Alcomotive’s 2 bay hoppers were weathered from ideas grabbed from photos of his cars on the site.

What I did a few weeks ago with the brown Centerbeam is fade it first to a dusty lighter color and then added rust with a micro brush. Pictures don’t do the rust color justice but it’s orange rust moving to deeper dark umber. In person I wasn’t sure but the client loved it in the pictures and he was raving about it at the Trainfest.
D271C542-3908-4C8B-A610-AB9F8464AD86.jpeg
5C404419-4719-40D4-B487-DCB9F126AA67.jpeg

I applied the dark umber Vallejo Air 71.041 in spots 1st then barely touched with light rust and let it run.

Here is a gondola floor and a separate styrene piece pulp car floor I did for brown oxide color cars. This was Vallejo Air, burnt umber, Chocolate brown Model color from Vallejo, and Vallejo Air light rust dabbed on separately, left to dry before the next layer. These were full strength not thinned and blended on the color with a brush. As I experiment I write the formula down but each time it looks different.
AB37CDC6-8C11-4A01-B30B-CA5AECCC57A8.jpeg

The client for the centerbeam did this car in that same train. He says he took my formula and applied it to the aluminum roof, lighter colors 1st. I see his work and wonder to myself why he sends me stuff? So, I asked him Saturday at the train show, 4 young boys was a good enough answer for me
F118C7B2-777B-4B45-950B-4782E757AF82.jpeg


I am hoping as I continue to practice with oils that it looks better. Some of the rust washes I have made from oils are beautiful when applied but others are not even nice. Still practicing. I did for Xmas ask for a decent range of Abteilung 502 oils, so I have no excuses and will have to use them.

So, no matter what formula you come up with, when applied to 2 different surfaces or sides of cars they will be different. So just experiment
 


TLOC said:
Rusting a brownish color car like I wrote before I find difficult. Using those prototype pictures shows much of that rust as almost black. Photos are credited on eachpicture by photographer and the site I used them from.

Railcarphotos.com

I highly recommend as it’s so easy to search for individual cars by numbers. If they don’t have the number they usually have numbers in the series the car was built. Many of Alcomotive’s 2 bay hoppers were weathered from ideas grabbed from photos of his cars on the site.

What I did a few weeks ago with the brown Centerbeam is fade it first to a dusty lighter color and then added rust with a micro brush. Pictures don’t do the rust color justice but it’s orange rust moving to deeper dark umber. In person I wasn’t sure but the client loved it in the pictures and he was raving about it at the Trainfest.
View attachment 155829View attachment 155830
I applied the dark umber Vallejo Air 71.041 in spots 1st then barely touched with light rust and let it run.

Here is a gondola floor and a separate styrene piece pulp car floor I did for brown oxide color cars. This was Vallejo Air, burnt umber, Chocolate brown Model color from Vallejo, and Vallejo Air light rust dabbed on separately, left to dry before the next layer. These were full strength not thinned and blended on the color with a brush. As I experiment I write the formula down but each time it looks different.
View attachment 155832
The client for the centerbeam did this car in that same train. He says he took my formula and applied it to the aluminum roof, lighter colors 1st. I see his work and wonder to myself why he sends me stuff? So, I asked him Saturday at the train show, 4 young boys was a good enough answer for me
View attachment 155833

I am hoping as I continue to practice with oils that it looks better. Some of the rust washes I have made from oils are beautiful when applied but others are not even nice. Still practicing. I did for Xmas ask for a decent range of Abteilung 502 oils, so I have no excuses and will have to use them.

So, no matter what formula you come up with, when applied to 2 different surfaces or sides of cars they will be different. So just experiment
Click to expand...
Thanks, I'll keep experimenting with it, hopefully I'll get better. :)
 
Due to Smudge617 weathering project and I have a new gondola to the layout well it has to get weathered.

Here is the project, A Thrall 3564 built gondola
A001F6C3-2A21-4C4A-B400-CDD76D2C94A3.jpeg

A relatively newer car in my time frame of 2005, it’s not real weathered. Found about 20 photos online and will use this picture as a guide, it actually was the most faded
79F1D9AD-2D14-4495-9616-DB3BA8DBDA81.jpeg

But if I could do decent graffiti I would do elements from both of these
8164CBD9-C37C-4577-B1EC-89B84C303985.jpeg
DF79773B-4EE5-47F5-820F-093F8CAB9998.jpeg

I could not find pictures of the inside of the gondola, but they get scratched, dinged and bumped fairly quick. So it will be rusted. This car on the layout will be used in a Manifest through train and it shouldn’t be switched on the layout. Just running staging to staging, great for the granddaughter. I like like the wire coil loads that I still have been unable to re-produce decently…

I brush washed with 70% Isopropyl Alcohol straight from the bottle. This does start a slight fade process but also removes any oils from the plastic body. No picture!

1st step on this one, brush water with a brush on the surface, then I dab on a rust color. Vallejo Air Rust.
2D0EEAAD-342B-4278-A74A-E7AE80660FA3.jpeg

then dip the brush in water, dip in the rust color and on the car
EA756C01-C33B-46D7-9F85-B06931257A44.jpeg

Just let the rust run and dry, today maybe an hour! Here it’s resting/drying
6E4E95F3-62A7-471B-AF45-33395509A6B9.jpeg

Thanks Chris for getting my weathering juices flowing

Back later
 
More researching info. I was wondering why searching pictures the outside of these are are so clean of rust? The GTNX #290000 to 290199 series were built by FCA ( purchased Thrall cars builders) between 11/2012 to 1/2013. That means a different train on the layout. I had been purchasing cars that fit the 2015 timeframe that I briefly modeled so it can still stay. I am not that big a stickler for dates and eras, it makes it easier for me when I buy though. But like here I sometimes stray. Before FCA took over Thrall, the 3564 gondola started production in the mid 90’s, just not the number I have. Sorry, enough on that

So this is another car I found that shows some rusting in this 3/2016 picture. So this is the sample I will now weather from and yes, I will showThe tagging
D54413C8-02B0-4B93-A839-B130972297AE.jpeg

I have enough info to finish this car. I did apply the next layer of rust colors. It has been drying while I type this and make my lunch

bye
 
Next layer. The color is
B429226C-6B02-40A5-87C8-B0D2BE23D6C4.jpeg

I dab the water on a small area but not the flooding I did in the first layer. Next I touch a different brush to the water, dip the brush in the color and dab/stipple on. Here I try to get the color on the blacker spaces the first layer left exposed. The water lets it blend together.
D3634E5D-B550-4471-AD8E-78B77EA412D0.jpeg
2C04DB05-E180-4C0D-9430-5ABDB59DF107.jpeg
BD25B8EA-AB4A-4F2A-B066-E7E0526F3484.jpeg

This will dry until after my lunch and I will see then how it flowed. This layering will still have some exposed black and that’s where I will dab the next layer of color.
 
TLOC said:
Due to Smudge617 weathering project and I have a new gondola to the layout well it has to get weathered.

Here is the project, A Thrall 3564 built gondola
View attachment 155840
A relatively newer car in my time frame of 2005, it’s not real weathered. Found about 20 photos online and will use this picture as a guide, it actually was the most faded
View attachment 155841
But if I could do decent graffiti I would do elements from both of these
View attachment 155842View attachment 155843
I could not find pictures of the inside of the gondola, but they get scratched, dinged and bumped fairly quick. So it will be rusted. This car on the layout will be used in a Manifest through train and it shouldn’t be switched on the layout. Just running staging to staging, great for the granddaughter. I like like the wire coil loads that I still have been unable to re-produce decently…

I brush washed with 70% Isopropyl Alcohol straight from the bottle. This does start a slight fade process but also removes any oils from the plastic body. No picture!

1st step on this one, brush water with a brush on the surface, then I dab on a rust color. Vallejo Air Rust.
View attachment 155844
then dip the brush in water, dip in the rust color and on the car
View attachment 155846
Just let the rust run and dry, today maybe an hour! Here it’s resting/drying
View attachment 155847
Thanks Chris for getting my weathering juices flowing

Back later
Click to expand...
Errrr! no problem, 🤔

I've found out why I am being so unsuccessful with my rust, you use metallic rust, which is a darker shade than one I have. (I actually didn't know you could get metallic rust).

And thanks for explaining your method, I will be copying it, now where's the copy and past button? :)

I know I did a link somewhere for a US company that make Graffiti decals, I'll see if I can find it again.

Microscale Decals: HO Scale - Modern Graffiti for HO scale railroads

www.microscale.com www.microscale.com
 
The previous layering had dried and not to my liking
A5C65200-55E8-4537-8DAA-875BE425191A.jpeg

See the rust line accumulating where side wall meets the floor? It is much too uniform. I will try to make this layer break that line up

Similar to the 1st 2 steps with one big difference. I do not wet the surface prior with water. I take Vallejo Air #71.040 Burnt Umber thinned 2 drops of water to 5 drops of paint on my paint pallet.
DDA6BF6B-38DC-4614-99DF-A0C457E2B1E7.jpeg

Wet the brush, dab the water off and dip into the Burnt Umber and dab onto the car floor. Not heavy dabs, but I hold the brush straight up loosely with my fingers. When it hits the floor the brush actually slides up my fingers. I continue that until the entire surface is covered.
DF05244C-50F4-41ED-B5A9-D8CD7010ADD7.jpeg
FC8AFF5E-9BB7-4832-83E1-7F772380C01C.jpeg
3BAF01E8-4F3D-483A-9AEE-37FADD9A4A14.jpeg

If this had been a much older car, I would have done the same floor covering process but either used the Panzer Aces 302 Dark Rust
D5FBB2C3-1F4C-4DA7-9080-680D7BF013CC.jpeg

or Abteilung 502 Pigments Light Rust
C683CAFE-4DA5-41A5-8BB4-6DB2F6E4D58B.jpeg

Either can and will give a textured rust colored finish. But since this car will be carrying loads the texture won’t be seen.

Inside side walls, later.
 
Smudge617 said:
Errrr! no problem, 🤔

I've found out why I am being so unsuccessful with my rust, you use metallic rust, which is a darker shade than one I have. (I actually didn't know you could get metallic rust).

And thanks for explaining your method, I will be copying it, now where's the copy and past button? :)

I know I did a link somewhere for a US company that make Graffiti decals, I'll see if I can find it again.

Microscale Decals: HO Scale - Modern Graffiti for HO scale railroads

www.microscale.com www.microscale.com
Click to expand...
Chris, what metallic rust? Edit. Never mind, never knew 71.069 is metallic

Suggestions on Decals!

Circuscitydecals.com

is who created my custom decals and IMO they are the best I have used. James (Alcomotive) in the diner also uses him.

I would email Matt there using their contact page asking if he will ship to you. Mention Tom OConnell and James Rowland recommended him to you. That is after you check out his graffiti decal page. Matt’s dad is a friend?
 
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TLOC said:
Chris, what metallic rust? Edit. Never mind, never knew 71.069 is metallic

Suggestions on Decals!

Circuscitydecal.com

is who created my custom decals and IMO they are the best I have used. James (Alcomotive) in the diner also uses him.

I would email Matt there using their contact page asking if he will ship to you. Mention Tom OConnell and James Rowland recommended him to you. That is after you check out his graffiti decal page. Matt’s dad is a friend?
Click to expand...
Can you check the web address please, I'm getting "This site can't be reached"?

EDIT.

Google searched him, got it thanks.
 
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HELLO FELLOW MODELERS, FOLKS WHO WEATHER OR WANT TO, OR WANT TO JUST LOOK

When I started this Continous Weathering back in 2/2022 thread I asked for CONSTRUCTIVE CRITICISM, advice, suggestions, tips, techniques and pictures of your work. To that extent, I believe this thread has been successful. PLEASE continue. No one here and especially me know it all. We can and have been learning together

happy modeling
 
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TLOC said:
HELLO FELLOW MODELERS, FOLKS WHO WEATHER OR WANT TO, OR WANT TO JUST LOOK

When I started this Continous Weathering back in 2/2022 thread I asked for CONSTRUCTIVE CRITICISM, advice, suggestions, tips, techniques and pictures of your work. To that extent, I believe this thread has been successful. PLEASE continue. No one here and especially me know it all. We can and have been learning together

hapoy modeling
Click to expand...
I definitely couldn't agree more, I think you can safely say this thread is 150% successful. :)
 


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