Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread

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How about anti weathering? I have 2 real, real old 2-6-0 and an 0-6-0 that is older than old. The 0-6-0 does NOT run but the 2 2-6-0's Run like butter! Smooth & quiet! I got them out of purgatory and dusted them off and ran them. The subject here is, as we all know, old coal loads as well as cheap coal loads look like week old dry black oatmeal, only less textured. So, as I was cleaning up the loads I wet my finger to rub something off. And it made the coal sparkle like, well, real coal does! Of course the spit dries up quite rapidly. Any of you folks know a treatment that lasts longer than spit. Cheers, JB
 
How about anti weathering? I have 2 real, real old 2-6-0 and an 0-6-0 that is older than old. The 0-6-0 does NOT run but the 2 2-6-0's Run like butter! Smooth & quiet! I got them out of purgatory and dusted them off and ran them. The subject here is, as we all know, old coal loads as well as cheap coal loads look like week old dry black oatmeal, only less textured. So, as I was cleaning up the loads I wet my finger to rub something off. And it made the coal sparkle like, well, real coal does! Of course the spit dries up quite rapidly. Any of you folks know a treatment that lasts longer than spit. Cheers, JB
Never worked on a coal load. I am wondering what a dull cote from Testors would do to the sparkle?
 


How about anti weathering? I have 2 real, real old 2-6-0 and an 0-6-0 that is older than old. The 0-6-0 does NOT run but the 2 2-6-0's Run like butter! Smooth & quiet! I got them out of purgatory and dusted them off and ran them. The subject here is, as we all know, old coal loads as well as cheap coal loads look like week old dry black oatmeal, only less textured. So, as I was cleaning up the loads I wet my finger to rub something off. And it made the coal sparkle like, well, real coal does! Of course the spit dries up quite rapidly. Any of you folks know a treatment that lasts longer than spit. Cheers, JB
Give it a good clean with a toothbrush or something similar and use satin finish lacquer.
 
How about anti weathering? I have 2 real, real old 2-6-0 and an 0-6-0 that is older than old. The 0-6-0 does NOT run but the 2 2-6-0's Run like butter! Smooth & quiet! I got them out of purgatory and dusted them off and ran them. The subject here is, as we all know, old coal loads as well as cheap coal loads look like week old dry black oatmeal, only less textured. So, as I was cleaning up the loads I wet my finger to rub something off. And it made the coal sparkle like, well, real coal does! Of course the spit dries up quite rapidly. Any of you folks know a treatment that lasts longer than spit. Cheers, JB
Gloss clearcoat? Or gloss black in this instance?
 
Never worked on a coal load. I am wondering what a dull cote from Testors would do to the sparkle?
Well if it comes from the tipple or the sorted piles, it might not have much sparkle, due to coal dust.

On the model side, Dullcote leaves it flat, does seem to mute some of the detail of the load. (experience from doing my earliest hoppers)

Any more, I remove the loads before weathering.
 
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Well if it comes from the tipple or the sorted piles, it might not have much sparkle, due to coal dust.

On the model side, Dullcote leaves it flat, does seem to mute some of the detail of the load. (experience from doing my earliest hoppers)

Any more, I remove the loads before weathering.

I should also mention my workings are in N scale; the surface detail muting might not be a problem in HO scale.
 
Thanks all!
Scrubbing with a brush and a damp wiping clean would be mandatory. I would think Gloss black or gloss clear coat would be my guess as well as a satin finish. I think I may have an old hopper hiding somewhere I could use as a guinea pig.
 


Have you tried the wife's hair spray ?

Yeah, felt it added unwanted texture to surfaces.

Now that I’m airbrushing, rather than rattle-canning and therefor able to put on thinner coats, I think a substantially thinned gloss clear paint or gloss acrylic varnish might have a chance to produce a good result.

Coal in scale needs more of a hint or a glint than gloss, I think.
 
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Ok, going to (try to) get into the fray and post picture of some of my doing in N scale. First attempt at pictures in this forum.

The starting point: seven C&O steam era hoppers, in as received condition. The 90-tonner at bottom right is “out-of-era” and us unlikely to ever see meaningful time on my layout, but serves me usefully as a test piece for my first batch of airbrushed cars (three Athearn 3-bay 70-tonners, three Atlas two-bay 55-tonners, , and the aforementioned Atlas 90-ton):

IMG_3066.jpeg


And here is a closeup of the Athearn three-bay cars:

IMG_3068.jpeg


Obviously, my layout is far from finished, so the photography suffers from the lack of a realistic scenic backdrop.

Alright, on to the great outdoors where I do some of my airbrushing. (I do some acrylic airbrushing indoors, the more noxious solvents I take outdoors)

IMG_3072.jpeg


Yeah, I spray ‘em upside down, so I get the hopper doors & undersides, and get undeneath the lip at the top of the body. I don’t turn them over to get the top of the lip or inside the bays. These cars will have their loads reinstalled anyway, and the rims/lips really aren’t glossy. The Dullcote has already been applied in this photo. Bottled Dullcote thinned 1:1 with laquer thinner. (I’ve since gone to 2 parts Dullcote to 1 part laquer thinner, and like that better, and may thin less on my next venture.

Ok, don’t have interim process photo, but finished shots up next. The general process to get finished was:

1. Airbrush on Vallejo Air clear matte varnish (a bonehead mistake I mentioned earlier, in the weathering locomotives thread(?), because I didn’t frikking read the bottle, and thought I was using white)
2. Since the matte varnish looked good, I just put Vallejo Air White (yeah, for real this time) heavily thinned to a wash as a fade coat. Varied the number of coats among cars.
3. Airbrushed on heavily thinned Vallejo burnt umber for modest “overall rustiness.”
4. Hand-painted individual rust areas with Vallero burnt umber. Thinned to a wash for large panel rust, unthinned for individual rust spots.
5. Pastel chalking with medium to dark grays, intentionally going for uneven fade effects
6. Sealed with Vallejo matte varnish (also for real this time), thinned 1:1.

All thinning of acrylic done with Vallejo airbrush thinner.

IMG_3090.jpeg


That one above is my test piece. The lighting is a bit dark, so it’s hard to tell, but I overdid it on both the fade coat and the rust coat, as a result it gravitates a bit toward pink in hue.

Below is a better piece. Trucks weathered with a 1:1 mix of Valkejo burnt umber and rail brown (brand uncertain, and I’m not at home to ferret it out). Wheels weathered with pastel earthtone chalk mixing medium brown and dark brown. Applied dipping a small brush into 70% isopropyl,, then into the pastel mix, then swabbing it on the wheel face. (I like the texture - I sometimes like to get my eye down to ground level when the train passes; the texture allows me to see the wheels turning - one of the more vivid things I remember as a small boy waiting at RR crossings, watching the dirty wheels turn.

IMG_3091.jpeg


Below are a few shots of applying two-toned rust - the first being the burnt umber, the second being a “Normal Rust” of a military miniature brand (can’t renember that one, either, and still not at the house). Painted the normal rust (the brighter color) first, followed up with the burnt umber over it, but leaving the edges of the brighter showing, to give the impression of newer rust at the edges of a rusty patch:

IMG_3097.jpeg


Above with flash, below, same car without flash:
IMG_3104.jpeg


Some other cars with same technique:

(Things are acting up, so splitting the post here)
 
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ok, the post started begaving strangely, so I figured I had better stop there, and break it into two.

The other cars:

IMG_3103.jpeg

Without flash above, with, below:
IMG_3095.jpeg



Next car
IMG_3102.jpeg

Without flash above, with, below:
IMG_3094.jpeg



IMG_3092.jpeg


Kind of hard to see the two-tone in the last, but it’s there, no better photo of it.

It’s hard (for me) to get good photographs in N scale - if I lean too much on the zoom, resolution suffers; If I get in close, focus suffers, and I also get in the way of my own light.

Feedback welcome!
 
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Great work! I don't know about n scale but I have several HO Athearn hoppers of that style and had to add 10 grams to each to get to NMRA standards. I use nickels (5 grams) and pennies (3 grams). You can't add 1 or 2 grams at a time, after that the only exact weight you can't add is 4 grams. It's cheaper than buying weights and no shipping costs! Once again, great job. What is your coal? that looks great as well! JB
 
What is your coal? that looks great as well! JB

Thank you for your kind remarks!

My coal is just the coal loads that come with them, unadorned. I might pull some out for some experimentation.

Seeing the 55-tonners without loads makes me realize that they are Microtrains instead of Atlas; the Atlas hoppers and Athearns all have loads. The Microtrains (MT) all lack loads, but I can order some from MT.

Yeah, my Atlas 55-tonners are in a batch in progress right now.
 


ok, the post started begaving strangely, so I figured I had better stop there, and break it into two.

The other cars:

View attachment 174491
Without flash above, with, below:View attachment 174495


Next car
View attachment 174492
Without flash above, with, below:View attachment 174496


View attachment 174493

Kind of hard to see the two-tone in the last, but it’s there, no better photo of it.

It’s hard (for me) to get good photographs in N scale - if I lean too much on the zoom, resolution suffers; If I get in close, focus suffers, and I also get in the way of my own light.

Feedback welcome!
Thank you for sharing. That is definitely in the spirit that I started this thread. Great work and great explaining your process.

I have done a handful of N scale commissions and they are IMO tougher to do then HO. Your pictures are fine, especially the last one that shows the texturing on the side panels.

TomO
 
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