CambriaArea51
Well-Known Member
The windows are done and put back together. (camera picked up the paper through the window) No weathering on this one I'll probably sell it. Here the other one I stage on the coal module for a breakroom.
Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread
- Thread starter TLOC
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My brushes all got contaminated with micro fibres…I think from something that was in my brush container
I bought new brushes, but the oil thinner (Turpenoid) I’m sure is contaminated as well, ..
The jug of T is $30… so I figure I will I will use up that before I go on to toss the brushes…
So now I have to take a critical eye to the paintwork before it’s dry,
Photos are helpful in this..
Maybe sand out the fiber and mask and paint a square black patch over the spot…
I do keep all my brush groups separated. Oil brushes, aryclic brushes, pan pastel and chalk brushes all in their own container. Same with brushes I use for blending. But, I now realize I use the same bottles of cleaner for all brushes. While not the cause of this dilemma it could be an issue down the road.
I have not gone back to the bench yet today but late last night I looked at the smaller fiber bits. I have used in the past a high pressure wash of straight 99% Isopropyl Alcohol to remove weathering shot via the airbrush at 55-65 PSI. But, those were not sealed cars. These 2 cars are sealed! I do have some 1000 grit sanding sticks, that might be easier. I am going to a hockey game this afternoon so when I get back I will look them over.
Yes, I am hiding from these cars but hopefully someone will learn from my mistakes.
Yes, to the difference in weathered trucks. I take them off the car, pull the wheels, use a turner and then weather them after a dip into 70% Isopropyl Alcohol bath for cleaning. It doesnt take long to disassemble, tune, clean and paint but the difference is always noticeable
thanks for sharing
Old picture showing my Pan Pastels in 4 of the 7 racks of 5 I have.
I would do a basic fade, some light dirt on the undersides, and possibly a few rust spots. I think one of our club members has this train, but he hasn't brought it out to play in a long time.
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CambriaArea51
Well-Known Member
I had one Intermountain flat car left for a wrecked car load. These are very light and need a load plus some extra weight. I hand paint the couplers with Model Master rouille rust, it's a dark color. Then some templo for weight.
CambriaArea51
Well-Known Member
Next I painted the wheels and axles with craft paint. A mix of burnt umber and raw sienna. I cut some lumber and test fitted the tank car. Next will be weathering the flat car and finish the tank car.
santafewillie
Same Ol' Buzzard
I also use scrap plastic packaging to make windows for rolling stock and structures. My to go material comes from Atlas switch packages.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Very nice flat car and load
TLOC
Well-Known Member
I didn‘t see much Conrail except in photos, but that looks like a dirty caboose. Nicely done
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Sometimes I don’t know enough when to let things go. I posted this picture before. 2 tankers the top one faded with Pan Pastels white blender. The bottom tanker was to be sprayed with my Tamiya Arcylic custom fade concoction.
I was using this credited photo as a guide
How hard could the fade to match the prototype photo be? The pan pastels are great except I picked it up WITHOUT cleaning my fingers or wearing a glove. Fingerprints then appeared after the PP‘s were sealed with a clear coat. Never a good thing.
This morning I sprayed both with my Tamiya fade custom mix that when on fine on the non pan pastel car. Pictures when it is dried. The car I had sealed would have been ok except for a couple fibers now sticking to the car from when it cleaned the body.
I thought it was fine until I sprayed it and the fibers appeared.
LESSON TIME
#1. always wear gloves when touching the model
#2. triple check the model is clean
#3. if you are in an environment that maybe dusty, cover the model as it dries
Seems my paint booth area that just has open floor beams has occasional dust falling. I didn’t use the dehydrator and that was a mistake
It is break time as I verbally hassle my and I figure out what to do next
Tom
I was using this credited photo as a guide
How hard could the fade to match the prototype photo be? The pan pastels are great except I picked it up WITHOUT cleaning my fingers or wearing a glove. Fingerprints then appeared after the PP‘s were sealed with a clear coat. Never a good thing.
This morning I sprayed both with my Tamiya fade custom mix that when on fine on the non pan pastel car. Pictures when it is dried. The car I had sealed would have been ok except for a couple fibers now sticking to the car from when it cleaned the body.
LESSON TIME
#1. always wear gloves when touching the model
#2. triple check the model is clean
#3. if you are in an environment that maybe dusty, cover the model as it dries
Seems my paint booth area that just has open floor beams has occasional dust falling. I didn’t use the dehydrator and that was a mistake
It is break time as I verbally hassle my and I figure out what to do next
Tom
AirbrushNo5
Well-Known Member
My brushes all got contaminated with micro fibres…I think from something that was in my brush container
I bought new brushes, but the oil thinner (Turpenoid) I’m sure is contaminated as well, ..
The jug of T is $30… so I figure I will I will use up that before I go on to toss the brushes…
So now I have to take a critical eye to the paintwork before it’s dry,
Photos are helpful in this..
Maybe sand out the fiber and mask and paint a square black patch over the spot…
CambriaArea51
Well-Known Member
A friend of mine had 8 tank cars he wanted to part with. Cost me lunch which was about $50. All petroleum car but one (Caustic soda). Another project, I'm going to start with one to see how it's going to turn out. I'll be watching Tom on his tank car progress, I haven't done any tank cars to speak of so I'll have to research pictures for ideas also.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
#5, Thanks for letting me know about contaminated brushes!
I do keep all my brush groups separated. Oil brushes, aryclic brushes, pan pastel and chalk brushes all in their own container. Same with brushes I use for blending. But, I now realize I use the same bottles of cleaner for all brushes. While not the cause of this dilemma it could be an issue down the road.
I have not gone back to the bench yet today but late last night I looked at the smaller fiber bits. I have used in the past a high pressure wash of straight 99% Isopropyl Alcohol to remove weathering shot via the airbrush at 55-65 PSI. But, those were not sealed cars. These 2 cars are sealed! I do have some 1000 grit sanding sticks, that might be easier. I am going to a hockey game this afternoon so when I get back I will look them over.
Yes, I am hiding from these cars but hopefully someone will learn from my mistakes.
Modern tankers this morning. Awesome! I spend yesterday fiddling with my transition era tankers. It did reawaken my appreciation for blue box kits. Most are quite serviceable decent models. I fiddled with a couple of mediums. I start with the airbrush and flat finish, then washes, in this case AK Interactive, and then Pan Pastels. The mixture of solid and liquid mediums gives nice texture.
This is my rescue car. I found that using AK's odorless thinner is better. it's not as aggressive as the Xylene I used and doesn't attack paint. I may fiddle with it a little more, but so far, not bad. I think all of these need a little tweaking but as works in progress I'm satisfied with how they're turning out!
Next up is teh mate. The gasoline tanker. Mostly rush and mud effects here. Note that as MOW cars, there would be pretty grungy!
By way of comparison, here's one that was airbruished only. No flat coat as it was done at a train show and you can't spray the smelly stuff at those. Note the difference when you don't paint the trucks.
Here's a good old faithful Athearn triple dome.
This lion oil company tanker is a favorite of mine. The actual company made industrial coatings. Mostly airbrush with some pan pastels. No washes.
After these i had worked up enough gumption to try the first Tangent model. It needs some blanding but we're off to a good start. The biggest difficulty with these is keeping the detail intact!
This is my rescue car. I found that using AK's odorless thinner is better. it's not as aggressive as the Xylene I used and doesn't attack paint. I may fiddle with it a little more, but so far, not bad. I think all of these need a little tweaking but as works in progress I'm satisfied with how they're turning out!
Next up is teh mate. The gasoline tanker. Mostly rush and mud effects here. Note that as MOW cars, there would be pretty grungy!
By way of comparison, here's one that was airbruished only. No flat coat as it was done at a train show and you can't spray the smelly stuff at those. Note the difference when you don't paint the trucks.
Here's a good old faithful Athearn triple dome.
This lion oil company tanker is a favorite of mine. The actual company made industrial coatings. Mostly airbrush with some pan pastels. No washes.
After these i had worked up enough gumption to try the first Tangent model. It needs some blanding but we're off to a good start. The biggest difficulty with these is keeping the detail intact!
TLOC
Well-Known Member
I really like these 2. Just enough flat coat and dust to tell the viewer these cars are in service.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Looking very nice. Lots of work into these. The Lion Oil Company panels under the dome is exceptional. Really like the trucks on the Texaco car. The rescue car is turning into a great looking unit.
Yes, to the difference in weathered trucks. I take them off the car, pull the wheels, use a turner and then weather them after a dip into 70% Isopropyl Alcohol bath for cleaning. It doesnt take long to disassemble, tune, clean and paint but the difference is always noticeable
thanks for sharing
I like the effect as well. There are many ways to fade paint. The Tangent tanker was faded with Gray Pan Pastels. Try fading with gray and see how you like it. I think it's a little more forgiving than white. I also ordered up some primary colors for my Pan Pastel palette. The usual red, blue, yellow green. Great for fading or dulling bright colored cars.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
I love the PP‘s and when I got back into weathering a few years ago that’s what I 1st purchased. My only issue is when I clear coat them I lose so much of them as they dissolve. When I was using Testors spray can of Dull Cote the PP really disappeared. Using VMS flat clear out of the airbrush is not as aggressive. I only clear coat now if they are a car that might be handled and that is few.
Old picture showing my Pan Pastels in 4 of the 7 racks of 5 I have.
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
Strange you weathering tankers, saw these and thought "I wonder what TLOC and Espeefan would do with these"
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They're too new for me.Strange you weathering tankers, saw these and thought "I wonder what TLOC and Espeefan would do with these"
Six HO Scale GATC 23K Tank Train Intermediate Cars GATX #14961-68 Athearn #67913 | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Six HO Scale GATC 23K Tank Train Intermediate Cars GATX #14961-68 Athearn #67913 at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.www.ebay.co.uk
I would do a basic fade, some light dirt on the undersides, and possibly a few rust spots. I think one of our club members has this train, but he hasn't brought it out to play in a long time.
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
I quite like these, I was thinking similar as you but with large overspill running down the sides, add some rust too as, they to me, would be hydrochloride tankers not oil.They're too new for me.
AirbrushNo5
Well-Known Member
It’s funny, as a teenager I used to drive my snowmobile thru the woods and come along long trains of parked tank cars which I took absolutely no notice of other than they were blocking my way across the tracks…
Today, I would have stopped and taken pics..
Today, I would have stopped and taken pics..
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