Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread

ModelRailroadForums.com is a free Model Railroad Discussion Forum and photo gallery. We cover all scales and sizes of model railroads. Online since 2002, it's one of the oldest and largest model railroad forums on the web. Whether you're a master model railroader or just getting started, you'll find something of interest here.


Status
Not open for further replies.
Smudge617 said:
I li

I like this, show's how much I have yet to learn. :(
Click to expand...
A life lesson. We all have a lot to learn. LOL…

CambriaArea51 (Tom) did a fantastic job on the cars he showed. Powders, pastel chalks and Pan Pastels are fun to play with. My first weathering adventure while in retirement was with Pan Pastels on a structure. Like any
new thing practice helps.

His fade coats on his rolling stock are well down. You know it’s faded but you also can tell the orginal color. That was and is still hard for me on certain colors.

I tend to focus my practice on one area. If I plan to work with Pan Pastels after the fade and mat clear coat, I do as much grouping of my cars as I can. Same if it’s just Arcylics. Don’t rush and something I have a tendency to forget, less is more. But, have fun, both mediums are forgiving
 
Smudge617 said:
I li

I like this, show's how much I have yet to learn. :(
Click to expand...
Thanks Tom.
One thing I should mention Smudge, weather something that you want weathered heavy. Slowly build up the car to your liking. This will help you get a feel for weathering instead of trying to weather something light and going to far.
I'm still learning different techniques watching Youtube videos. Look at different ways people do stuff and take bits and pieces and come up with your own way that you feel comfortable with.
Remember no two cars weather the same and no two sides weather the same.
 
TLOC said:
A life lesson. We all have a lot to learn. LOL…

CambriaArea51 (Tom) did a fantastic job on the cars he showed. Powders, pastel chalks and Pan Pastels are fun to play with. My first weathering adventure while in retirement was with Pan Pastels on a structure. Like any
new thing practice helps.

His fade coats on his rolling stock are well down. You know it’s faded but you also can tell the orginal color. That was and is still hard for me on certain colors.

I tend to focus my practice on one area. If I plan to work with Pan Pastels after the fade and mat clear coat, I do as much grouping of my cars as I can. Same if it’s just Arcylics. Don’t rush and something I have a tendency to forget, less is more. But, have fun, both mediums are forgiving
Click to expand...
Thanks, I'll keep that in mind, I'm trying my hand at fading a car today, not going well would be a understatement, can't get the ratio right, I'll keep trying tho' :)
 


CambriaArea51 said:
Thanks Tom.
One thing I should mention Smudge, weather something that you want weathered heavy. Slowly build up the car to your liking. This will help you get a feel for weathering instead of trying to weather something light and going to far.
I'm still learning different techniques watching Youtube videos. Look at different ways people do stuff and take bits and pieces and come up with your own way that you feel comfortable with.
Remember no two cars weather the same and no two sides weather the same.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I'm doing a grain car at the minute, done about 8 washes so far, I'm nearly happy with it, trying to fade a car, definitely nit going well, but that's the way it goes.
 
Still not perfect, but I'm happy with it.

20221126_131837.jpg
20221126_131907.jpg
20221126_131917.jpg


My fading didn't work, so back to the drawing board, also these spare wagons I got to practice on have been painted, paints very thick so having to strip back before I attempt anything, the box car is the one I was trying to fade. These are a Triang Cars.

20221126_163920.jpg


Grain Car I'm practicing on, slowly slowly. :)
Original condition.

20221126_131824.jpg


Where I am now, still a way's to go.

20221126_164047.jpg
20221126_164057.jpg
20221126_164105.jpg
 
Smude617. If you are practice fading cars previously painted and stripped down you may not see much of an effect. IMO 20% white to 80% thinner is a good mix. But it still will depend on how many coats you put on the car to get a noticeable fade.

You are fading first before weathering, right?

I hope to get back to the paint bench today. The knee has not produced intolerable pain yesterday or so far today.
 
TLOC said:
Smude617. If you are practice fading cars previously painted and stripped down you may not see much of an effect. IMO 20% white to 80% thinner is a good mix. But it still will depend on how many coats you put on the car to get a noticeable fade.

You are fading first before weathering, right?

I hope to get back to the paint bench today. The knee has not produced intolerable pain yesterday or so far today.
Click to expand...
Yes, fading first, I think my problem is I'm too inpatient, and not leaving it to dry sufficiently (it's dry to the touch) before applying another coat, I probably would be better applying one coat a day.
 
I use a cardboard jig to hold the car…
Painting fade does take some practice…using the airbrush around 15-18 psi, quick passes, constantly rotating the car…light coats…it doesn’t have to be perfect tho
I generally use 1 or 2 fills of the airbrush colour cup to paint a car…
1/2 fill the colour cup with thinner then add the already diluted paint

It’s better to apply too little than too much fade as it can build up fast
I am talking about both the immediate paint landing on the car as u don’t want to flood the surface as well as the successive coats that wash out the base colour beyond where u wanted to go..
 


AirbrushNo5 said:
I use a cardboard jig to hold the car…
Painting fade does take some practice…using the airbrush around 15-18 psi, quick passes, constantly rotating the car…light coats…it doesn’t have to be perfect tho
I generally use 1 or 2 fills of the airbrush colour cup to paint a car…
1/2 fill the colour cup with thinner then add the already diluted paint

It’s better to apply too little than too much fade as it can build up fast
I am talking about both the immediate paint landing on the car as u don’t want to flood the surface as well as the successive coats that wash out the base colour beyond where u wanted to go..
Click to expand...
Must try that, I found I was flooding the car, especially around the base.
 
I really appreciate the suggestions brought into this thread. I have a tendency to be heavy handed on the fading process, trying for too much at one time.

airbrush#5 has a great method for me to try. Filling the paint cup 1/2 with thinner and then adding the thinNed fade mix is something I will be trying.

keep them coming
 
Hello fellow modelers. I basically am out of the weathering adventures probably until sometime in January. The fall on the ice, knee surgery and rehab has taken away some modeling time but mostly energy.

I am working on a 30” x 88” paper mill commission, selling off my own paper mill and selling cars for my 2005 operating session. I am moving all operation dates to 2015. Most of the energy is in the commission build right now.

So to my weathering cohorts, modelers and anyone looking in on the thread, Happy Holidays
674D58E8-C575-488D-9C1B-5ECBEF7CA7EE.jpeg

That’s how I envision Merchant Row for a December in Wisconsin
 


Hi. I got a email from a client with a phone # asking me to call her. She is client who likes to surprise her hubby with gifts of my weathering. She admitted she got my email saying no weathering projects till February. But, sob story, heart tugging moment and I say, “I can’t by Christmas“. Then, I ask, what did you want done? He has a TBOX boxcar to be medium weathered. Checked her number against one of mine. Different number but she‘s fine with it but will send his car anyway to be car #1 to weather in February.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.




Affiliate Disclosure: We may receive a commision from some of the links and ads shown on this website (Learn More Here)

Back
Top