CambriaArea51
Well-Known Member
Not sure how to fix that because I've never used that Tamiya x-21.
Weathering Engines a Continuous thread.
- Thread starter CambriaArea51
- Start date
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BUT I really would not strip it.
As a stand alone it is a lovely piece of work, had it been a stand alone I would have suggested.
A check the light, and which room, as in the past I have painted something under say a fluorescent then looked at it under an LED and fainted, but once under the right light conditions it looked okay again.
Bulbs with strong warm or cooling effects can mislead you, photographing on a nice sunny day or a dull day can lead to serious differences.
B You I assume have the chalky effect,and you know the cause,and you have had that side by side with the rest of the intended rolling stock, so your like oh Fxxx it,
C It’s a nice job can you
1, sell the nicely weathered but not matching at a profit with the weathering as its selling feature
3 buy a nother and start again perhaps making a profit although losing time
r IF you really insist on removing the finish, gulps, pls pls test piece a little first, because that is a shame, a small test area then retrying may benefit, although I agree adding chalky finish is way easier than removing chalky finish.
5 IF you insist on stripping it,can we please have a couple of nice pictures of it on the layout by itself to capture the work as I personally like it. hence my love, love of the finish whilst sad it does not suit you.
Please label your pots more carefully, ie add CHALK or such to the lid for next time, because as a total tit who has made the same mistake on a totally different type of job, I hope you won’t get caught out again.
Loving the thread, and your work by the way.
I especially like people who are willing to hold up their hand when something goes wrong.I have in the past made mistakes and incorporated them, but they were single pieces,making it easier to change tack.
What ever direction you choose,
good luck.
I was testing clear flat varnishes and I saw the label saying it contained the Tamiya X-21base. Having learned the hard way ALL my mixes are labeled and the varnishes are noted with orange tape versus the blue for paints. The brain just didn’t register it till it was too late. It is one of the reasons I try not to weather after dinner.
I agree with you the nose is too white and the roof fans need a better noticeable application of soot. When I return home I will re-visit that to see what to do. While it doesn’t match my original Gp40-2l I do think it’s fine and since it is mine, I can still change it around. Nothing as we know weathers the same even on the same locomotive.
When I started the thread for FREIGHT CARS I asked for CONSTRUCTIVE CRITICISM and that goal for the thread through 50+ pages has been and continues to be achieved. I believe CambriaArea51 (Tom) is getting that here in this thread. Thanks for helping along. I post maybe 10-20% of the cars I weather as most of my clients don’t want others seeing pictures until they take and post them. I’m ok with that, not happy but ok. But I do show the errors because I want folks to know, we all make mistakes. Heck, sometimes I don’t know how to correct it and the suggestions I get are very helpful.
Every light in my train room, work benches and paint booth
are the same. I have 2’ and 4’ long units.
thanks for the suggestions
page 1
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Jaz avalley
Station cat
I am sorry it did not turn out like you expected
BUT I really would not strip it.
As a stand alone it is a lovely piece of work, had it been a stand alone I would have suggested.
A check the light, and which room, as in the past I have painted something under say a fluorescent then looked at it under an LED and fainted, but once under the right light conditions it looked okay again.
Bulbs with strong warm or cooling effects can mislead you, photographing on a nice sunny day or a dull day can lead to serious differences.
B You I assume have the chalky effect,and you know the cause,and you have had that side by side with the rest of the intended rolling stock, so your like oh Fxxx it,
C It’s a nice job can you
1, sell the nicely weathered but not matching at a profit with the weathering as its selling feature
3 buy a nother and start again perhaps making a profit although losing time
r IF you really insist on removing the finish, gulps, pls pls test piece a little first, because that is a shame, a small test area then retrying may benefit, although I agree adding chalky finish is way easier than removing chalky finish.
5 IF you insist on stripping it,can we please have a couple of nice pictures of it on the layout by itself to capture the work as I personally like it. hence my love, love of the finish whilst sad it does not suit you.
Please label your pots more carefully, ie add CHALK or such to the lid for next time, because as a total tit who has made the same mistake on a totally different type of job, I hope you won’t get caught out again.
Loving the thread, and your work by the way.
I especially like people who are willing to hold up their hand when something goes wrong.I have in the past made mistakes and incorporated them, but they were single pieces,making it easier to change tack.
What ever direction you choose,
good luck.
Jaz avalley
Station cat
PS I have often seen real locos similar looking very different next to each other, all depending on where in the country they have been working, personally I would keep it.
Jaz avalley
Station cat
Not the same, only wagons but we purposely make those different when in rakes
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Jaz avalley
Station cat
Excellent work on the faded paint, the rust, the dirt oh not listing everything it is a beautiful piece.
I have one criticism the 3 output fans (forgot the proper name lol) would be a lot dirtier for this amount of fading to have taken place.
I have one criticism the 3 output fans (forgot the proper name lol) would be a lot dirtier for this amount of fading to have taken place.
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Jaz avalley
Station cat
Jaz avalley
Station cat
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Jaz avalley
Station cat
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Jaz avalley
Station cat
Other than that one point, totally love it.
OK comparing my reference and yours I think you need to lose the white at the front this once seems way dirtier and rustier, and my original point with that amount of fade they has to be aging, but now I am shutting up lol, and if it was my piece of work I would be amazingly chuffed with myself the work on the white handrails really shows off how much effort you put in getting the dirt and rust. I love the overall dull finish, just black the fans and lose the white if you agree, if your reference proves it can be your way you can slap me,if you can find me …grins
OK comparing my reference and yours I think you need to lose the white at the front this once seems way dirtier and rustier, and my original point with that amount of fade they has to be aging, but now I am shutting up lol, and if it was my piece of work I would be amazingly chuffed with myself the work on the white handrails really shows off how much effort you put in getting the dirt and rust. I love the overall dull finish, just black the fans and lose the white if you agree, if your reference proves it can be your way you can slap me,if you can find me …grins
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TLOC
Well-Known Member
JazI am sorry it did not turn out like you expected
BUT I really would not strip it.
As a stand alone it is a lovely piece of work, had it been a stand alone I would have suggested.
A check the light, and which room, as in the past I have painted something under say a fluorescent then looked at it under an LED and fainted, but once under the right light conditions it looked okay again.
Bulbs with strong warm or cooling effects can mislead you, photographing on a nice sunny day or a dull day can lead to serious differences.
B You I assume have the chalky effect,and you know the cause,and you have had that side by side with the rest of the intended rolling stock, so your like oh Fxxx it,
C It’s a nice job can you
1, sell the nicely weathered but not matching at a profit with the weathering as its selling feature
3 buy a nother and start again perhaps making a profit although losing time
r IF you really insist on removing the finish, gulps, pls pls test piece a little first, because that is a shame, a small test area then retrying may benefit, although I agree adding chalky finish is way easier than removing chalky finish.
5 IF you insist on stripping it,can we please have a couple of nice pictures of it on the layout by itself to capture the work as I personally like it. hence my love, love of the finish whilst sad it does not suit you.
Please label your pots more carefully, ie add CHALK or such to the lid for next time, because as a total tit who has made the same mistake on a totally different type of job, I hope you won’t get caught out again.
Loving the thread, and your work by the way.
I especially like people who are willing to hold up their hand when something goes wrong.I have in the past made mistakes and incorporated them, but they were single pieces,making it easier to change tack.
What ever direction you choose,
I was testing clear flat varnishes and I saw the label saying it contained the Tamiya X-21base. Having learned the hard way ALL my mixes are labeled and the varnishes are noted with orange tape versus the blue for paints. The brain just didn’t register it till it was too late. It is one of the reasons I try not to weather after dinner.
I agree with you the nose is too white and the roof fans need a better noticeable application of soot. When I return home I will re-visit that to see what to do. While it doesn’t match my original Gp40-2l I do think it’s fine and since it is mine, I can still change it around. Nothing as we know weathers the same even on the same locomotive.
When I started the thread for FREIGHT CARS I asked for CONSTRUCTIVE CRITICISM and that goal for the thread through 50+ pages has been and continues to be achieved. I believe CambriaArea51 (Tom) is getting that here in this thread. Thanks for helping along. I post maybe 10-20% of the cars I weather as most of my clients don’t want others seeing pictures until they take and post them. I’m ok with that, not happy but ok. But I do show the errors because I want folks to know, we all make mistakes. Heck, sometimes I don’t know how to correct it and the suggestions I get are very helpful.
Every light in my train room, work benches and paint booth
thanks for the suggestions
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TLOC
Well-Known Member
Agree and will correct when I return home
TLOC
Well-Known Member
High pressure (80psi) wash of 99% Isopropyl Alcohol knocked it down to where I do like it. The nose needs more work though
TLOC
Well-Known Member
I did post pictures a few pages back of the diesel I was using as a reference and James also posted a bunch.
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Jaz avalley
Station cat
I have to say that the piece is so good, if I was you I would find a small part of your layout that is high spec and take a photo at eye height and try to get a picture that will fool people that it is the real thing because it deserves a show off picture 
I did not take it on board I’ll look, thanks
Jaz avalley
Station cat
Ok the 2nd photo fooled me I initially thought it the real thing, only once I started checking out the leads at the front did I realise
TLOC
Well-Known Member
I have a locomotive sitting at the bench for some weathering tomorrow, 3/27.
Ignore the Centerbeam car or go to the freight car thread…
The locomotive is clear coated. After vacuum duty tomorrow I will be adding a black panel liner using the Tamiya panel liner. Wait an hour at most and then clean up the panel lines.
The cleaning up on YT videos looks so easy. But IMO it’s not as easy as those folks make it look. When clean up is done I will lightly spray another clear coat
This will be a lightly weathered locomotive and the first of 5 diesel locomotives I have to do. Only this1 for this client. He asked me I I test ran it. Told him no and I won’t be running it. By not running it I don’t have to worry about, how it runs or the possibility of smoking a decoder.
This is a Scaletrains Rivet Counter and it is very heavy. Much heavier then my former Genesis SD70ACe units when I was running 6 axle units.
The locomotive is clear coated. After vacuum duty tomorrow I will be adding a black panel liner using the Tamiya panel liner. Wait an hour at most and then clean up the panel lines.
The cleaning up on YT videos looks so easy. But IMO it’s not as easy as those folks make it look. When clean up is done I will lightly spray another clear coat
This will be a lightly weathered locomotive and the first of 5 diesel locomotives I have to do. Only this1 for this client. He asked me I I test ran it. Told him no and I won’t be running it. By not running it I don’t have to worry about, how it runs or the possibility of smoking a decoder.
This is a Scaletrains Rivet Counter and it is very heavy. Much heavier then my former Genesis SD70ACe units when I was running 6 axle units.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
I started on 3685 which is. Scaletrains GE ET44c4 Tier 4 Gevo. The details on this machine are just awesome and the whole thing is beautifully done.
Panel lines is where I started today. The clear coat had already been done. Progressed to the trucks. One side only was done the conductor side. I have included both sides so you can actually tell there progress
Zoom in to see the grill work. Trying to figure if I should add another coat as some of the grill has some orange showing. The truck sides have been darken and the back is a bit darker then the front trucks per a picture of 3685 I am using
Nothing done yet On the engineer side. I am giving my eyes an hour or so rest
Panel lines is where I started today. The clear coat had already been done. Progressed to the trucks. One side only was done the conductor side. I have included both sides so you can actually tell there progress
Zoom in to see the grill work. Trying to figure if I should add another coat as some of the grill has some orange showing. The truck sides have been darken and the back is a bit darker then the front trucks per a picture of 3685 I am using
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
Although you'd get a lot of exhaust soot adhering to the grill, weather would also play a part in washing some parts of the grill which would allow the underlying colour to come through, so perhaps a lighter grime around those areas would be appropriate.
CambriaArea51
Well-Known Member
If you look at post #18 those GE units move a lot of air through those screens, so much so the exhaust gets drawn in. I've seen pics of the top of the radiator where it is white due to the heat burning the paint off.
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