The Bachmann E-Z Command is a good starter DCC controller. It doesn't have all the bells and whistles that more complex controllers have but you really won't need all that right off the bat. I've used the Bachmann controller now for over a year and am moving up to a Digitraxx NCS-50 because I finally understand enough about DCC that all the extra features to be important. The best place to buy an E-Z Command controller is on e-bay because there are plenty of guys like me who are selling them as they move up. You should be able to get one for $50 or less and you'll probably get most of your money back when you sell it later.
Want to get back into a childhood hobby.
- Thread starter John26
- Start date
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Selector
Well-Known Member
I have to offer my opinion because I have a strong one about the EZ-Command. I don't want to contradict others who have gotten what they feel is good use and value from their EZ-Commands, except that I didn't have a very positive feeling about the couple of days I played with one during my own switch to DCC. Let me explain...
First, it is inexpensive and it works. For me, though, it was so limited in what it could do with even a single decoder that I found it to be disappointing. I returned mine within a week, and didn't use it for five of those days.
Reasons? It won't allow you to program inputs into the CV's (configuration variables) to tune the locomotive that houses the decoder to do what it should do. All you can do is operate most of the first 8 or so functions (I seem to recall?), and you can program a new address so that you don't have to run each decoder on Address 03...the way they all come from the factories. But suppose your decoder allows you to change the clanging rate on your engine's bell. I wanted to adjust my Tsunami decoder that I had installed in my USRA 0-6-0 switcher. With my Digitrax it was a simple procedure, and I was left to play happier with an engine that sounded the way I wanted it to. Can't do that with the EZ-Command.
Or, let's say I wanted to improve the synchronization of the chuff sounds with the revolutions of the drivers on that same steamer. Digitrax...a few seconds to accomplish. EZ-Command...you can never do it because it is impossible to do with that system.
So, you can play trains with the EZ-Command, but you can't configure all the CV's that let you tune your engine so that it performs optimally.
I want to make sure that John understands that from the outset.
I hope I haven't tread on any toes.
-Crandell
First, it is inexpensive and it works. For me, though, it was so limited in what it could do with even a single decoder that I found it to be disappointing. I returned mine within a week, and didn't use it for five of those days.
Reasons? It won't allow you to program inputs into the CV's (configuration variables) to tune the locomotive that houses the decoder to do what it should do. All you can do is operate most of the first 8 or so functions (I seem to recall?), and you can program a new address so that you don't have to run each decoder on Address 03...the way they all come from the factories. But suppose your decoder allows you to change the clanging rate on your engine's bell. I wanted to adjust my Tsunami decoder that I had installed in my USRA 0-6-0 switcher. With my Digitrax it was a simple procedure, and I was left to play happier with an engine that sounded the way I wanted it to. Can't do that with the EZ-Command.
Or, let's say I wanted to improve the synchronization of the chuff sounds with the revolutions of the drivers on that same steamer. Digitrax...a few seconds to accomplish. EZ-Command...you can never do it because it is impossible to do with that system.
So, you can play trains with the EZ-Command, but you can't configure all the CV's that let you tune your engine so that it performs optimally.
I want to make sure that John understands that from the outset.
I hope I haven't tread on any toes.
-Crandell
Selector
Well-Known Member
A very wise choice, John. You have afforded yourself the chance to explore, to learn, and now realize you would be more comfortable learning even more before you begin to commit yourself to a given path. I hope that this is very much a pleasant undertaking for you. There is no reason you can't have a wonderful eureka moment in the weeks ahead and find that you now know how to proceed.
Selector
Well-Known Member
Depends, John. Generally, you are correct, but the models most of us can afford ($350 and less) are designed to run on curves between 18" and on up. If you are interested in steamers with large diameter drivers (near 80" in real world), and the engine has more than 3 in a row, then it will need curves around 22" as a minimum, and not to look pretty...just to function reliably. If you are talking about the massive 2-10-4 coal haulers like the Pennsy J1, then you can expect to have curves over 24", with 28" being a comfortable choice. But smaller engines like the 2-8-0 Consolidation, the 4-6-2 Pacific, the 2-8-2 Mikado, and the smaller switchers and earlier 4-4-0 era engines are good to 18". The only exceptions generally will be found in the brass engines that cost three to five times as much, unless you can get a deal on ebay.
I was going with the small engines anyways.
I was looking through some online stores today and in the HO section I noticed a few products I had as a kid. I may look into some old boxes, because I know I had A LOT of track. It's either N scale or HO scale. Hopefully HO.
Anyways, I am still caught in a know with what I am going to lay down for the stations and towns, not a grass mat.
Still really can't go on with anything about the track until I get a table soon.
I was looking through some online stores today and in the HO section I noticed a few products I had as a kid. I may look into some old boxes, because I know I had A LOT of track. It's either N scale or HO scale. Hopefully HO.
Anyways, I am still caught in a know with what I am going to lay down for the stations and towns, not a grass mat.
Still really can't go on with anything about the track until I get a table soon.
Selector
Well-Known Member
One person in 3000 would build a model railroad layout of any substance more than a sheet of plywood or a ping pong table. There's no market. There are professionals who build model railroads, and there are commercial bench firms, but they cost lots.
Have you thought of steel framing studs, bolts and screws to support your wooden bench? Should be like an erector set or something. On the Model Railroader forum, tomikawaTT is building a substantial layout filling both bays of his garage. Mind you, he also builds his own turnouts.
Have you thought of steel framing studs, bolts and screws to support your wooden bench? Should be like an erector set or something. On the Model Railroader forum, tomikawaTT is building a substantial layout filling both bays of his garage. Mind you, he also builds his own turnouts.
Ikea layout tables. Don't take offense, but that gave me good laugh. 
I don't think I ever saw a person in Ikea that looked like a model railroader.
I didn't want to go through the hassle of building benchwork when I first started either since I wasn't sure that it would be more than a temporary layout. I picked up two 4x4 and two 2x6 banquet tables with the plastic tops at Lowes. They were on sale and I paid a total of $120 plus tax, which I think isn't much more than the lumber and plywood would have cost. I used bolts with wing nuts to hold them together in a dogbone style layout. I added 1" of foam to the top using latex caulk - I'd add 2" if I was doing it again. 18 months later, my "temporary" layout is still up and the whole thing is suprisingly strong. Just another alternative to traditional benchwork.
I don't think I ever saw a person in Ikea that looked like a model railroader.I didn't want to go through the hassle of building benchwork when I first started either since I wasn't sure that it would be more than a temporary layout. I picked up two 4x4 and two 2x6 banquet tables with the plastic tops at Lowes. They were on sale and I paid a total of $120 plus tax, which I think isn't much more than the lumber and plywood would have cost. I used bolts with wing nuts to hold them together in a dogbone style layout. I added 1" of foam to the top using latex caulk - I'd add 2" if I was doing it again. 18 months later, my "temporary" layout is still up and the whole thing is suprisingly strong. Just another alternative to traditional benchwork.
Selector
Well-Known Member
You wouldn't be the first, John. Just please understand that it is inherently unstable as a design. The first time you forget and lean up against the closest edge, you will do one of two things: you'll shift the whole works by sliding it on the sawhorses, or you'll lift the far side by pressing down on the edge against your body. In either case, the result won't be a happy one.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Hey guys and gals.
Can I get some opinions on my track plan and ways to make it better. I was also thinking about track again. I am just going to go with Atlas 83 or Atlas True track. Which do you think is better?
Likewise, I am still puzzled for what I should lay down for grass, dirt, and a town.
Can I get some opinions on my track plan and ways to make it better. I was also thinking about track again. I am just going to go with Atlas 83 or Atlas True track. Which do you think is better?
Likewise, I am still puzzled for what I should lay down for grass, dirt, and a town.
John, that track plan would be boring to me. You basically run around in a circle with only three switches and room for maybe two rail-served industries. You have plenty of room of more sidings, industrial spurs, and a yard, all which I'd try to work in there. Your layout generally looks better if you don't have all the track perfectly aligned to the table edges as well.
Assuming you're going to stick with sectional track, Atlas code 83 looks more prototypical. Atlas code 100 TruTrack has larger rails and doesn't look as prototypical. Neither one is netter for an operations point of view but the code 83 track will look more realistic.
Sounds like you need to invest in a few books on scenery and structures to get an idea of what you can do. There are lots available. I'd recommend you check at the Kalmbach site for a couple of books covering these subjects and give them a good reading. Scenery and town building are big subjects and need some study to get right.
Assuming you're going to stick with sectional track, Atlas code 83 looks more prototypical. Atlas code 100 TruTrack has larger rails and doesn't look as prototypical. Neither one is netter for an operations point of view but the code 83 track will look more realistic.
Sounds like you need to invest in a few books on scenery and structures to get an idea of what you can do. There are lots available. I'd recommend you check at the Kalmbach site for a couple of books covering these subjects and give them a good reading. Scenery and town building are big subjects and need some study to get right.
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