walthers/shinohara complex switches

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M

MitchyG

the new guy
I am planning a layout and want to know- which would be cheaper, a walthers/shinohara code 83 #6 double slip, or 3 or 4 switches and a crossing.

Also, what quality is peco and walthers compared to atlas?

Thanks!
 
Hi Mitchy,

First, are you wanting a Double Slip or a Double Crossover?

It depends on what manufactures switches you plan on getting... I sell a Walthers #6 Double Slip for $56.24 and a Walthers #6 Double Crossover for $59.99 through my shop. Walthers #6 switches are $18.74 each for RH & LH. So when you look at it, 4 #6 switches is $74.96. Compare that to my price on the Double Crossover and Double Slip and you can see the price difference. The Walthers #6 Double Crossover and Double Slip may seem expensive, but when comparing the overall cost for 4 switches to make the same, their actually cheaper. This is talking about Walthers Code 83. Atlas turnouts are a little cheaper @ $13.99 each for LH & RH #6's totaling $55.96 to make a Double Crossover and Double Slip.

This is just my opinion, but i do consider Peco & Walthers turnouts to be far better then Atlas ones. i am using Walthers #6 turnouts on my La Mirada Project and I am very pleased with the smooth transitions. Ive used Atlas #6's before as well, and while there wasnt necessarily anything wrong with them, they did seem to be a little less smooth when trains roll through them. With the Walthers I just feel its a lot smoother transition when trains roll through them and the points but snugly up against the rails when thrown. I cant speak for Peco however as I have never had any experience with them before

Hope this information helps
 
Price is important, but so is ease of both installation and then subsequent utility. A series of turnouts, such as on a ladder, are pretty straightforward, and the newer Customline should do you well. A double-slip takes great care in installation to get its entry/exits all aligned nicely. It is complicated as an appliance, and needs care with wiring. Lots of moving parts and the need for continuity assistance so that things won't stall...or short! I bet you'll have to use plenty of cut-off disks or some clear varnish to keep metal wheels from bridging the rails of disparate polarities.

I am just trying to point out some caveats in all honesty. The fact is, I have a handlaid double-slip in my yard, and so will every layout I ever build...I like them that much. In case I botched my hand built one, I at the same time ordered a Walthers/Shinohara double-slip. It looks wonderful, but is still nested in its cardboard sleeve. I look forward to using it one day.

-Crandell
 


shinohara and peco are both nice products with first taking slight lead in looks and the other in operation. both however light years ahead of atlas as far as what i experienced so the premium is justified, again JMO. as far as double slip, despite the complexity i am going to have one as well, ( peco) i also like these switches a lot
 
Double Xovers & slip switches are only used in very congested areas like passenger terminals where space is at a premium. On the real RRs double Xovers & slips are avoided like the plague due to them being so high maintenance. And on model RRs they can cause all kinds of tracking problems if not layed down perfectly by very experienced modelers. There's nothing wrong w/ having a RH & LH Xover right next to each other like the real RRs do it.
 
Walther's code 100 double crossover.

This is my favorite switch on the whole layout which has about 70 switches. A Walther's #6 double crossover.

NYC_George

Walthers_double_xx_1.jpg
 
There are some places and circumstances where the old Atlas double-slip switches function better than Shinohara. I have a few brass ones that seem to function nicely for specific applications. For example, with the Atlas DS turnout, throwing the points one way make it into a crossing. Throw them the other way, and they become a double-slip from all leads. With Shinohara/Walthers, you have to align for a specific lead/departure or you will have a derailment. The other leads are not available. OTOH, the Shinohara look better, and may function better under the right circumstances. With the Atlas DS' you only need one connection, and the switch machine is built in, precluding having to set up two separate switch machines. By the same token, the Atlas doesn't look as good due to the solenoid housing being on top. ALSO, SOME LONG cars and engines may hit the housing when the route is going around the curve, rather than as a crossing.

Double crossovers can save a lot of space, but as has been pointed out, you need to wire them correctly, and the leads have to match with the two main line spacings. Also, if using switch machines, you need to wire the machines in pairs or else resort to double crank linkages to the throw rods on each so the points are aligned correctly for trains entering and leaving the crossover(s).
 


Single Crossovers

I have some real nice Shinohara single crossovers that I will be selling...brand new units, left and right.

Anyone have an idea of pricing?
 
I am sketching a track plan for my initial two 2' x 4' benchwork sections I have built so far and figure on using a double crossover and about 14 turnouts. I have purchased 10 sections of code 100 flex track and wonder how difficult it is to transition from code 100 track to code 83 switches.

Knowing that prototypicaly higher heavier rail is used on the mainline, do modellers use both 100 and 83?
 
I've got 2 Shinohara double crossovers and 1 double slip on my layout for 15 years. And the only problems have be rolling stock related. As mentioned before great care must be taken to ensure reliability. I've no knowledge on Peco except what has been mentioned here and what some of the modelers in town say. As for Atlas, you gets what you pay for. Tried them and don't like them. Phil
 
Joe G said:
I am sketching a track plan for my initial two 2' x 4' benchwork sections I have built so far and figure on using a double crossover and about 14 turnouts. I have purchased 10 sections of code 100 flex track and wonder how difficult it is to transition from code 100 track to code 83 switches.

Knowing that prototypicaly higher heavier rail is used on the mainline, do modellers use both 100 and 83?
Click to expand...

Certainly they mix the two size rails if you wish. If you weather the 100 code it will look smaller....and better. you can actually make up a rush color paint from just local hardware store,...and brush it on with soft toothbrush.

I listed a bunch of turnouts and switches in code 100 over on HO Interchange.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HOInterchange/photos/album/1335317132/pic/list
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HOInterchange/

When I get some more time I will list those items on this forum's site for selling items....just not enough time in the days for now.
 
NYC_George said:
Yes manually operated.
Click to expand...

I visited a marvelous layout (home layout tour) recently that was 'around-the-wall' type where the max depth of any section was 12-24 inches. It was walk around DCC so all the switches were manual...either from front facia or most just right at the turnout itself. It was double level . I'll see if I can find some photos ...really made sense.
 
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I don't think I have seen anything other than a #6 slips in the 87:1 world. Is #6 what is typically used in the 1:1 scale or do they use a higher number?
 


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