True track vs EZ Track

[Big John]

For over thirty years I've been a code 100 man. First brass then nickel silver. But for a while now I've been wanting to switch over to code 83. I'm particularly interested in the type that comes with it's own roadbed. I mean no more ballasting, this does sound very intriguing.

But then to do this brings up a couple of new set of problems. First, I have absolutely no experience with code 83 whatsoever. Second, which one to get, Atlas True Track or Bachman EZ Track. In choosing, there's a couple of things to consider. Which one is the easiest to work with? What kind of quality is each switches (turnouts)? And then how does each brand of these rate in service compared to code 100 track?

Anyway, I would like to know both the pros and cons about each of these (Atlas's True-Track and Bachmann's EZ Track. I mean, if YOU were to buy either of these, which one would it be and why? Please list both the pros and cons of each. All responses to this will be greatly appreciated by an old school modeler that's trying to break into the new school way of modeling, sort to speak. But then,,,, on the other hand, maybe I should disregard both of these altogether and instead, take a closer look at Kato's Unitrack. Hmmmmmm.
John

 

[diburning]

I don't think EZ Track comes in Code 83. I may be wrong.

True Track is the standard Code 83 on a piece of roadbed. In fact, the roadbed is removable if you decide to ballast it later.

As for switches, the Bachmann ones are better.

If I was to buy track, I'd get flex track, and peco switches, and none of the stuff with the roadbed unless I wanted to build a temporary layout.

 

[Big John]

I don't think EZ Track comes in Code 83. I may be wrong.

True Track is the standard Code 83 on a piece of roadbed. In fact, the roadbed is removable if you decide to ballast it later.

As for switches, the Bachmann ones are better.

If I was to buy track, I'd get flex track, and peco switches, and none of the stuff with the roadbed unless I wanted to build a temporary layout.

I assumed that all the track nowadays that had it's own roadbed was code 83 regardless of what brand it was. But now I find out that I stand corrected, as Bachmann EZ track is code 100. I never realized that it's basically the same track that Bachmann has always offered, only now it comes with it's own roadbed which it apparently cannot be removed from the way True Track can. Very interesting.

I've used Bachmann track in the past, but that was long before it came with it's own roadbed, and you're right. Their switches, even back then were better than the Atlas snap switches. Right now I use mostly Pecos. I understand what you're saying about flex track and plastic roadbeds, but I do have my reason for wanting one rather than one made of cork. Thanks for your response and for setting me straight about EZ Track. ....And anyone with the word on Unitrack?



John

 

[diburning]

Kato unitrack is somewhat costly, and I've never used it, but I've heard nothing but good reviews about it.

 

[Artieiii]

Track suggestions

I have been thinking the same things. Flex track seems kinda cheap to me but I guess the advantage is many less connections. I suppose If I use flex track and solder the connections that might give the best results. The last layout I made I used code 100 track but my Lionel Challenger and Veranda suffered frequent derailments. I know now that I need to ditch the nails to hold the track down. My Bachman Spectrum NJ transit engine had no problems but the NJ transit passenger cars derailed all the time. Does the cork bedding help smooth the track connections? I am in the process of building a 4x8' HO layout but I want to be educated first.
-Art

 

[diburning]

Flex track isn't cheap at all. With sectional track, you can blame derailments on the joints. With flex tracks, theres no one to blame but the person who laid the tracks! Flex track, when laid correctly, is operationally better than sectional track since it has less joints, less places where things can go wrong.

The nails that hold the track down work very well, or you can glue the flex down. You can use a cork roadbed on top of foam. The roadbed helps keep the track in place, and helps to guide you up grades and around curves when laying track. Ultimate, it's up to you to create smooth joints.

To create smooth joints, be sure to file the sides of the insides of the joints so that wheels can't catch on them.

 

[Selector]

It would be miles ahead to learn how to lay flex track. If I can eventually learn how, so can you. You get 3' of flex for less than the cost 9" of anything sectional.

Fewer joints.

Infinitely variable geometry within flex range and the curvature minimum for the rolling stock you are going to use.

One of the cons, to be balanced, is that you must prepare roadbed well so that the flex doesn't sit in such a way that one rail dips while the other is forced to rise slightly, and then each experiences a reversal over the next 6-8". With modern HO diesel trucks, that's a recipe for derailments. Just ask my Genesis SD75M's.

No matter what track you lay, as suggested above by dilburning, you should bevel both the top running surface ends and the inside flange faces of the rails with a small metal needle file, whether you cut them yourself or are relying on factory cuts. The diagramme below illustrates:

It becomes that much more important as you reduce the radius, forcing the flanges of your rolling stock tightly to the flange faces of the rails.

 

[ICG/SOU]

I like Xuron rail nippers, but also use an old Atlas saw (that I had as a kid), and am adding a jeweler's saw to my toolbag.

For sectional track with roadbed, go Kato. You have a greater choice in Code 83 radiuses and turnout numbers, with better electrical connectivity than with Atlas True Track. I have no experience with Bachmann other than it is Code 100.

 

[Dameon]

If you're going to go sectional, go Kato. Many years ago I tried it, getting just enough for a small oval and a siding and I was sold! Yes, it is pricey and will cost you more than laying regular track with roadbed and ballasting, but you will get consistently good quality track across the entire layout with very solid performance.

The Atlas and Bachmann (and I think Life-Like makes some now too don't they?) sectional track with plastic roadbeds are, IMHO, toy train junk.

 

[Tuna]

Between Tru-Track and E-Z Track, I'll take Kato UniTrack.