Tru-Color Paints

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E

En-TACT

Active Member
It looks like Scalecoat Paint is making a comeback under new ownership, which is great news for accurate railroad colors. I'm specifically looking for Union Pacific shades—Harbor Mist Gray and Armour Yellow—but I haven’t seen a timeline for when their full line will be available again.

In the meantime, I'll wait and exploring alternatives. I came across Tru-Color Paints, which claims to offer prototypical colors. However, I’ve read mixed reviews—especially regarding adhesion to plastic surfaces, and issues of paint lifts when unmasking. Has anyone here used Tru-Color for plastic models or similar applications?
 
En-TACT said:
It looks like Scalecoat Paint is making a comeback under new ownership, which is great news for accurate railroad colors. I'm specifically looking for Union Pacific shades—Harbor Mist Gray and Armour Yellow—but I haven’t seen a timeline for when their full line will be available again.

In the meantime, I'll wait and exploring alternatives. I came across Tru-Color Paints, which claims to offer prototypical colors. However, I’ve read mixed reviews—especially regarding adhesion to plastic surfaces, and issues of paint lifts when unmasking. Has anyone here used Tru-Color for plastic models or similar applications?
Click to expand...
I’ve used Tru Color and I’m not a fan. The surface must be really clean and dried before applying and cured (about 48 hours) before using any tapes. There is a solvent oder which is a no no for me. Not terribly bad with a good paint booth but it might bother others.
 


For UP Armour Yellow it's Badger Modelflex 16-24. For Harbor Mist Gray it's 16-25.
www.megahobby.com

Modelflex Paint Railroad Colors 1oz Bottles Badger

Modelflex Paint Railroad Colors 1oz Bottles Badger
www.megahobby.com www.megahobby.com
That's what I used on these:
100_0064.JPG
 
En-TACT said:
Yes, they are solvent-based enamel paints.
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Are you talking about Scalecoat Paint? If yes, the only paint I saw was no paint .... do sell a paint stripper and it is excellent.

I hate water-based acrylics, not permanent enough, and everything removes the paint. Enamel is not bad, just takes forever to cure.
Solvent, lacquer paint, the way to fly.

Pep
 
En-TACT said:
Looks great! Modelflex Railroad Colors are water-based acrylics - did you apply a primer coat first?
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Yes, I used Testors Model Master white primer. Water based acrylics pretty much demand a primer first. I still have just a little Model Master primer left. When it's gone, it's gone forever! 😢
 


The down-low on Tru-Color:

It's an ink, not a paint. It can be tricky to use, and there is a steeper learning curve than average.

It's an acetone based system. Acetone can be used for cleanup, but when painting a model, the best results are obtained when using their thinner which is expensive. Some have tried acetone as a thinner, including yours truly, and gotten poor results as there are retarders in their thinner that aid in spraying and prevent the sandy finish you get when thinning with straight acetone (it dries too fast). Bottom line: Bite the bullet and use the proper thinner.

The acetone molecule is so agile it migrates through the plastic bottles, so after some shelf life the paint tends to thicken, to a sludge in some extreme cases. The good news is their thinner (not straight acetone) will bring it back to a useable state. The bad news: You'll have to thin in different ratios with older bottles. I've thinned anywhere from 50-50 to 70-30. You need the consistency of skim milk, and test on a piece of styrene before going to work.

Priming is advisable, especially on brass. Tru Color will not adhere to a bare brass surface. Guess how I know this.

I have not had issues with paint lifting when removing masking tape. I do use Tamiya or automotive painters tape which is lower tack than hardware store or Wal-Mart masking tape. Beware of dried out masking tape. The roll of tape should feel spongy when you squeeze it. if it's rock hard, introduce it to Mr. Trashcan.

The colors are spot on in my experience.

To my knowledge, the Scalecoat return is on hold for now (again). I hope they make it happen, as I am a Scalecoat junkie!
 
Espeefan said:
The down-low on Tru-Color:

It's an ink, not a paint. It can be tricky to use, and there is a steeper learning curve than average.

It's an acetone based system. Acetone can be used for cleanup, but when painting a model, the best results are obtained when using their thinner which is expensive. Some have tried acetone as a thinner, including yours truly, and gotten poor results as there are retarders in their thinner that aid in spraying and prevent the sandy finish you get when thinning with straight acetone (it dries too fast). Bottom line: Bite the bullet and use the proper thinner.

The acetone molecule is so agile it migrates through the plastic bottles, so after some shelf life the paint tends to thicken, to a sludge in some extreme cases. The good news is their thinner (not straight acetone) will bring it back to a useable state. The bad news: You'll have to thin in different ratios with older bottles. I've thinned anywhere from 50-50 to 70-30. You need the consistency of skim milk, and test on a piece of styrene before going to work.

Priming is advisable, especially on brass. Tru Color will not adhere to a bare brass surface. Guess how I know this.

I have not had issues with paint lifting when removing masking tape. I do use Tamiya or automotive painters tape which is lower tack than hardware store or Wal-Mart masking tape. Beware of dried out masking tape. The roll of tape should feel spongy when you squeeze it. if it's rock hard, introduce it to Mr. Trashcan.

The colors are spot on in my experience.

To my knowledge, the Scalecoat return is on hold for now (again). I hope they make it happen, as I am a Scalecoat junkie!
Click to expand...

FWIW, using the True Color thinner, I have not had any problems, and that is just for cleanup. I use the paint without thinning, right from the bottle. Tamiya's flat clear is much better...

I do think the plastic bottle leaks, and the solvent evaporates. Taping the top to the bottle, sealing it when storing.

Floqual is not coming back, so Scalecoat, with you there. They are only selling a paint stripper that is killer, works very well.
Purchased some because I needed it & wanted to try it. Also to build the customer list. Showing interest & speeding up production of some paint.
Here is hoping
Pep
 
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