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Well I'm not ready to mount my track perment. So i been practicing on soldering some old sectional track before I do it on the layut. Practice. makes perfect not that good yet.
Well I'm not ready to mount my track perment. So i been practicing on soldering some old sectional track before I do it on the layut. Practice. makes perfect not that good yet.
My advice is to make sure, when soldering "heavy stuff" together like track, is to use a "big" iron. I handlay my track, and for that I use at least a 40w iron. The trick is to get the rail hot enough to solder, without distorting ties, when you're using flex or sectional. For that you need a hot iron, that has the wattage to heat the rails fast. This is a job that smaller 25-15w irons cannot do well.
Make sure the surfaces are clean that you are soldering, and heat the work and not the solder. Let the solder flow to where you are making a joint. You'll find less clean up with a file afterwards. Practice and soon you'll be seeing what I'm talking about. Joints so clean that you can't see the solder holding the rails together.
I just in practice mood on soldering. though i getting good a soldering pins on my trees. so i have plenty of time using both to see what works best for me.
When soldering any joints the most important thing is to make sure all parts are clean and free of corrosion. A bit of flux on the top of the solder makes the solder flow much faster.
Are you planning on soldering your track in the "final" layout? I stopped soldering track about 15 years ago as I realized it didn't buy me anything. Good tight railjoiners on track that doesn't move seems to last forever.
I use a 75 watt Weller soldering gun. Once it heats up, it does a nice job of soldering the two rails and the joiner together. I do need to get a new tip, which would make the work a little easier to do.
I've found that if you put the tip against the joint and let it heat up both rails and the joiner, the solder flows nicely and makes a solid joint. Ever since I started soldering my joints, the electrical pickup for the locos has been much better. Also, don't solder the inside of the rails! I did the first couple of tries when learning the procedure and found out how well that works when the solder is a blob and the loco comes by. Ooops. I also don't solder every joint, allowing for the rails to expand and contract.
I soldered a good bit of Code 70 and Code 55 rail with my Weller 25w Iron, just a little dab of flux and away we go! In 5 years, I had one break... and that was a botched solder joint on my part.
I use organic flux and a 35 watt Weller iron.
I also use either Rosin core or solid core. I prefer the solid core.
I quit cleaning my tip with a wire brush and use a wet sponge instead. When the tip gets too bad I will use course steel wool.
I have found that it is easier with smaller solder.
I bought a pound of .020" solder.
Works great and you don't get the big globs.
G'day all..Totally agree...I also bought a temperature control iron too...My old dinosaur would get so hot that the solder ran 'too much'..nothing more annoying..I'm not the world's best solderer but this new s.iron makes it better for sure...Cheers Rod