Track Wiring

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Kickout

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I’m going to change my layout from DC to DCC. The layout is three ovals isolated from each other at the turnouts. When running the main power buss under the table do I:

Run one buss line for all tracks, and feeders to tracks
Or
Run a separate buss line for each oval with separate feeders to each oval.
 

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Rico's right. However, there is an advantage to one bus line for each oval. If you connect each bus line to it's own circuit breaker a short on one oval will only effect that oval instead of shutting down the whole layout.

If you run more than one train could be the way to go 🤷‍♂️
 
I’m going to change my layout from DC to DCC. The layout is three ovals isolated from each other at the turnouts. When running the main power buss under the table do I:

Run one buss line for all tracks, and feeders to tracks
Or
Run a separate buss line for each oval with separate feeders to each oval.
After looking at you track plan I would use one bus line for the outer two ovals but a second bus for the innermost oval and two circuit breakers. The inner oval is where your most likely to have a short because of the turnouts.

If you're switching on the inner oval and running a train on one of the outer ovals a short would only effect one train
 
I’m going to change my layout from DC to DCC. The layout is three ovals isolated from each other at the turnouts. When running the main power buss under the table do I:

Run one buss line for all tracks, and feeders to tracks
Or
Run a separate buss line for each oval with separate feeders to each oval.
You did not say how large this layout was. Is this around the room? My first thought was it looks like a 4x8 and my answer is neither. This layout does not look large enough for a bus, especially not 3 buses. Just connect the 3 red wires and 3 black wires to the two outputs of the DCC "to track" terminals. If you want to keep a short on any of the three ovals from effecting the other two, put a DCC district circuit breaker onto the power feed of each one.

I once wasted a massive amount of time, money, and effort into "bussing" a 4x8 layout. Soooo overkill. My current office layout is 9 x 9 and just has 4 feeds to the track. No bus. Runs flawlessly. Don't invent problems that are not there.
 
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That’s a very good point, if it works right now try just connecting the DCC to the existing wires and see how it goes.
When I was building the current layout I temporarily powered it with just two alligator clips!
The issue would be if you’re relying on the switches to carry power to the next section.
 
While the redundancy of a bus to each loop may be a little overkill, it may allow better performance and "safety" as applied to shorts. Again, it does apply to how large your layout is. Best of luck with your project.
 
The benefit of a bus and one or more 'subs' is that each can be treated as an entity electrically, and dealt with while retaining operations around the rest of the layout. Say you're one of what I think is probably a relatively few people who like to hear 'neutral' engine sounds, an idling prime mover, a steamer with its 'soothing' turbo-generator whining, the spits of the relief valve on a diesel....whatever makes you feel warm 'n fuzzy, you can keep power going to one part of the layout while another has a hard short and is shut off by its protection circuitry, or that you shut down via a toggle wired in series into that sub...you can work on it and continue to hear the idling, or even a steamer running around a closed and safe loop while you work.

It takes more thought and materials and work up front, but there are rewards to be had if you like convenience and other benefits when you get your whole layout up and running.

I learned about the tail-light bulb 'limiter' wired in series, I think from Joe Fugate when he was active on the Model Railroader forums about 19 years ago. You need a 2.5 amp analog tail light, and you wire it into the line between the bus and any sub you create per the reasoning above. When a short happens, it takes up the amperage rush, at least to its maximum rating, and will spare other components down the line from the inrush of damaging amperage. The method has its detractors and some limitations, but for those operating a Zephyr or NCE system with only 3 amps or so, it will do a good job. Just remember that, when it glows bright, it signifies a problem, and it will get HOT!!
 




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