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I used silicone caulk to hold the track on, no nails. I also ballasted the outslopes of the right of way by sprinkling the ballast right onto the wet caulk, pressed it in a bit, otherwise I could not get the ballast to stay there. (I ballasted all my EZ track)
Make sure you have track nails and not track brads.
I never knew there was a difference but I have both and the brads are softer.
As NVS stated hit them straight on.
Oh, I should add that I have somehow acquired two different grades of plywood, one of them barely takes screws!
That is something nobody mentions. plywood grades. regular construction grade which is softer that furniture grade. pilot holes are definitely needed in furniture grade, even for nails.
I used my hobby glue gun to do my kato unitrack . Put together ( layout complete )before you do so u can still move things a little if u want to . A little drop with the glue really does fix the track in place . Easy to slide something under to break loose if you need to .
If it's anything like Kato track (there are similarities) you can drill a small hole and tack it.. although you risk least damage by screwing it with super thin long screws. With Kato track it is pretty stable as is, but if you need exacting distances like on nested turns then I find a small blob of no more nails/caulk (or hot glue mentioned above) does the job perfectly and both methods mean you can re use the track.
Another method I used was to use a very light layer of wall filler and then lay the track on that, the weight of the track will "sit" into grooves as it dries ensuring it doesn't move, but it is not really stuck down either meaning it can be pulled up easily.
I hold the brads in a pair of needle nose pliers, then tap tap to start until the head is about rail height, then use a large punch with a cup end (not a point) to drive the rest of the way.