Tower 55 C45ACCTE

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Dallas Modern HO Scale

Modern HO scale modeler
Hey guys, i'm wondering if someone can help me with this. I have a Union Pacific C45ACCTE from Tower 55 Explorer Series (Digitrax DCC/DCC and SoundFx), it was working judt fine. I dont have DCC so iw as running it DC, one day it just stopped running. Lights still work perfectly but engine does not run and there's no sound. Right away it came to me that Tower 55 is no longer in business. Does anyone know what i can do about this or how i can fix it myself? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Franky
 


I'm afraid Josh may be right. It's really bad idea to run a DCC equipped engine for extended periods of time on DC. In theory, it shouldn't matter, since there's a jumper that bypasses the decoder, but it seems like DC still gets through to the decoder even with the jumper in place. Over time, enough gets through that a component on the decoder gets smoked and it won't run on DC either. If your total running time on this engine is less than an hour or so, it may be another problem. If you've run it a lot on DC power, I'm afraid the decoder may need to be replaced. Digitrax will still stand behind the decoder and replace it for $20 if it is bad. If you're going to continue to buy DCC engines, you really should get a DCC controller. Even a low end system like the Bachmann E-Z Command, which you can find for $50 or less on e-bay, will work fine and will protect your decoders.
 
UP2CSX said:
I'm afraid Josh may be right. It's really bad idea to run a DCC equipped engine for extended periods of time on DC. In theory, it shouldn't matter, since there's a jumper that bypasses the decoder, but it seems like DC still gets through to the decoder even with the jumper in place. Over time, enough gets through that a component on the decoder gets smoked and it won't run on DC either. If your total running time on this engine is less than an hour or so, it may be another problem. If you've run it a lot on DC power, I'm afraid the decoder may need to be replaced. Digitrax will still stand behind the decoder and replace it for $20 if it is bad. If you're going to continue to buy DCC engines, you really should get a DCC controller. Even a low end system like the Bachmann E-Z Command, which you can find for $50 or less on e-bay, will work fine and will protect your decoders.
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normally i run it on a friends layout on dcc, this was the first time on dc and it was only for like 5 minutes. and about digitrax standing behind the decoder and replacing it for twenty bucks, my local hobby shop sells them for the same price. is there any way i can tell if its the decoder or not? i was thinking aout maybe trying to reprogram the decoder
 
Have you tried thison your friend's layout that has DCC? If the decoder doesn't run there and can't be addressed, that should be a good indication it's bad. Having it fail on DC may be just a coincidence. Digitrax will replace it for free it its defective. They will replace any Decoder for $20 and there are lots of decoders that cost more than $20 - try to buy an eight function one for near that price.
 
UP2CSX said:
Have you tried thison your friend's layout that has DCC? If the decoder doesn't run there and can't be addressed, that should be a good indication it's bad. Having it fail on DC may be just a coincidence. Digitrax will replace it for free it its defective. They will replace any Decoder for $20 and there are lots of decoders that cost more than $20 - try to buy an eight function one for near that price.
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on my way to my friends place
 
Yeah, I can tell you, the $20 one at the LHS IS NOT the one in the T55 units. That's gonna be in the range of $100 for that decoder, better to use the warranty.
 
Just checked my T55 manual, no specs on the exact decoder, or any troubleshooting info for this problem.

Page 14 of the manual recommends resetting the decoder. "[...] program CV08 to a value of 08 following the programming instructions for your DCC system. The Locomotive should then begin operating properly on default address 03.[...]"
 
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jbaakko said:
Yeah, I can tell you, the $20 one at the LHS IS NOT the one in the T55 units. That's gonna be in the range of $100 for that decoder, better to use the warranty.
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ok so i tried resetting the decoder and readdressing it, NOTHING! all i got is lights. plus what warranty do i use? Tower 55 no longer exists and i dont even have the packaging. i bout it from a garage sale for $5. ladies son went to the army and she thought it was just a toy, i got that, 10 athearn boxcars weathered and full detail and a kato sd90/43 all for $35
 
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Wow, am I glad I'm not the son who left home!!!

Try contacting Digitrax, as Jim said, it should be a $20 fee to replace it...
 
can anyone make a video or tell me how to take off the shell? i thought it was like athearn that u just take off the couplers on both ends and it comes off but its not comin off
 
Two couplers and a series of tabs along the length of the shell. The problem lies in "pain seal" which restricts the compression factor of the shell, restricting the ability to press it in far enough to separate it.
 
jbaakko said:
Two couplers and a series of tabs along the length of the shell. The problem lies in "pain seal" which restricts the compression factor of the shell, restricting the ability to press it in far enough to separate it.
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if i take off the radiator can i take off the decoder thru there?
 
Dallas Modern HO Scale said:
if i take off the radiator can i take off the decoder thru there?
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No. The decoder is mounted on top of the motor, directly center, with wires wrapping around to the speaker in the fuel tank.

The painted shell should come off. If nothing, look for the tabs, directly above the trucks, to the inside (fuel tank side) of the pivot. You can press them out with a small flat point screwdriver.
 


jbaakko said:
No. The decoder is mounted on top of the motor, directly center, with wires wrapping around to the speaker in the fuel tank.

The painted shell should come off. If nothing, look for the tabs, directly above the trucks, to the inside (fuel tank side) of the pivot. You can press them out with a small flat point screwdriver.
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i dont wanna mess up the paint job or scratch it or even bend the brass handrails, i'll just trade it off to someone for 2 athearn engines
 
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