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Easiest way to do coupler springs is to hold the coupler closed with your left hand, and with your right hand, pick up a flathead screwdriver, and slip the screwdriver into the end coils of the spring, then carefully slip the spring over the cones on the kadee coupler.
Sorry, I wasn't specific. It was assembling the shank spring on the #15 couplers. A magnet holds it in place while it's being compressed to wedge it into the box.
I decided to just go all Kadees with any of the European trains I get so that everything will hook up to everything else. The frame is exactly at the height of a centered coupler shaft so the offset Kadee #49's work perfectly...
I used draft boxes from some #148's, shortened them, put the couplers and brass retainers in them, flipped them upside down with no lids and glued them right onto the top of the frame.
I'm already trying to figure out a way to put kadees on them without irreversably butchering them up. Especially the engine because I want to use it to pull a string of 50 year old Model Engineering Works Log Buggies.
Greg,
You can use the Euro Kadee coupler replacement that just snaps in to those coupler pockets. They don't always line up w/the American coupler heighths though.
On my Euro cars w/Kadee's I have 1 engine that I set up just to pull these cars because of alignment problems.
What's nice about Euro cars & engines is the spring loaded swing coupler arms. Most will turn on a dime(tight curves).
I'm going to list some short 2 axle highly detailed passenger/freight cars next month that you could probably use.