think i have decided on a 6'x12' layout

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it will fit my space well, and will provide a nice long surface for long train consists. what do you guys think? right now i am considering what track i want to use; atlas, micro-engineering, or peco. there is a local hobby shop near me (a different hobby shop) that i wouldnt mind doing business with, he is a small shop but seems to carry a fair amount of HO scale. however, he only carries peco code 100. regardless of track brand i go with i really dont want to go with code 100, i dont know much about peco but i remember from years ago that atlas code 100 is black ties, which is nowhere near proto-typical, nowhere in the world are you going to find black ties, they even look plastic. when i did my small 4x8 layout i had in the spare bedroom of my apartment i used code 83 atlas, i still have SOME of that track (not much though). i remember how limiting 4x8 really is for HO. i made do with what i had but i did not like having such a small work area. now i have a decent sized room in my loft to work with. im looking forward to the additional space. i love working with steam locomotives, particularly large steam loco's 4-8-4's and larger. i have a bachmann spectrum articulated (cant remember which model it was, i still have it and in mint condition), anyways while i loved that long locomotive i looked kind of silly going through 18" radius track.

anyways the hobby shop told me that most of his customers are using code 100 peco. why code 100, should i stick with code 83? also what's the price difference between atlas and peco, what about the quality? is the price difference great and the quality about the same? i was always fairly happy with code 83 atlas, the price was right and it looked good enough. however i plan keeping any track i buy for a long time, the layout will be permanent


anyways what are your thoughts and suggestions?
 
First of all, I'm glad you have the room for the 6' x 12' layout. However, I would suggest you see how far you can reach from the edge of the 6-foot dimension. In other words, you might want to consider making a slight indentation in the center of the 12-foot dimension so you can reach in more easily. This could be in the form of a dogbone in one shape or another. Second, so far as the choice between Code 83 and Code 100 is concerned, right now, I would think it would depend on availability of flex track, sectional track of a certain radius, turnouts, etc. Shinohara, for example has sectional track from around 16"R to 32"R (check the Walthers catalog). As far as the black ties are concerned, that can always be rectified by painting them, etc. More work, of course, but if it is an esthetic problem for you, there are ways to rectify it. While I have always used Code 100, I have stuff from long ago in that height, and went with it for reliability with older rolling stock. Virtually all rolling stock today will work fine on Code 83.
Have fun with your new pike!
 
About the track: will the local shop special order for you? I've run into one shop that only stocks code 100, but like you, I am not interested in that. I have other options for a LHS, but if I didn't, I would either ask the store to special order the product I wanted or else buy it online.

About the layout : is the 6x12 island style, or does it have a central access, walk-in, or shelf type configuration? If island, what are your thoughts about the reach into the center of the layout from either of the 12-foot sides?



From the DairyStatePhone
 


I am also doing an island style layout this time around, a free standing 6' x 16' mushroom.
I have long arms and a three foot reach isn't too bad with the help of a step stool, but still might narrow the top shelf a little as Trailrider mentioned above.
This will keep the windows accessible, allow for better air flow along the walls, and keep wiring simple.
I will only need to build one helix this way although it will be a double corkscrew design. (tracks up and down in separate directions)
I too have lots of code 100 track to use up so will probably use it in staging and main lines as it looks okay when ballasted and painted.
The supports are fabricated already and are quite sturdy, I'll get a pic of them later tonight.
 
Code 83 is also more realistic that 100. If you shop around, you can get discounts for volume purchases. Just calculate how many linear feet you will need before you buy.
 
You can buy Peco code 83 flex and switches from Cherry Creek Hobbies. I order Peco track from them all the time. They have plenty in stock all the time, have good prices, and they ship quickly too.

http://www.cchobbies.com/
 
I like Code 83 by Atlas, but I have to use Peco 100 #4 turnouts because of space limitations. You may want to go to the top of this Forum page and click on the "Building of the Pinnacle Creek Mining & Timber Co." thread. Many if not all your questions will be answered therein. It is a 'Sticky' thread because of its popularity. Plenty of knowledge given out for free. Jim
 
i remember from years ago that atlas code 100 is black ties, which is nowhere near proto-typical, nowhere in the world are you going to find black ties, they even look plastic.
A long time ago one could get Atlas code 100 in either black or brown tie versions. No one purchased the brown tie stuff though because it did not look like shiny new dripping with fresh creosoted black ties, so they discontinued it.

anyways the hobby shop told me that most of his customers are using code 100 peco. why code 100,
Before this year it was price and availability. Since the Atlas issues I don't know how pricing will be in the "new world" when it becomes available again.

should i stick with code 83? also what's the price difference between atlas and peco, what about the quality? is the price difference great and the quality about the same? i was always fairly happy with code 83 atlas, the price was right and it looked good enough. however i plan keeping any track i buy for a long time, the layout will be permanent
I would not be concerned too much about it. I mix the two (and Walthers, and Roco) all the time. Peco flex track coming up to an Atlas turnout or Atlas flex going into a Peco turnout. Not a big deal. The hardest thing I've found is if the ties are a different depth because then one has to shim or trim. No fun.

I prefer the Peco turnouts because they don't have that huge glaring white metal frog, and I like the point action better. But due to price differences I still buy and use Atlas when I don't think the wallet can handle the Pecos.

I even mix the code of track. Main line will be in code-83 and siding will be code-75 or 70. Industrial track code-55. Just for the cost reason, unseen parts of the layout have been done in code-100. It is an easy transition to code-83.
 
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that long locomotive i looked kind of silly going through 18" radius track.

anyways the hobby shop told me that most of his customers are using code 100 peco. why code 100,

anyways what are your thoughts and suggestions?

You are right on about the curve radius and the long locomotives or rolling stock.


If you are going to use some old locomotives, you might have to go with the code 100, because the wheels were made different.

The guys on here don't like the looks of it. Doesn't bother me, my wife, or any of our guests. Guess we are not descriminating enough. I used all Atlas code 100 flex track bought off ebay, and thought it was fun putting the pieces together and making it work. Some of it was beat up, but part of the hobby for me is taking something someone else discards and making good use of it.



Hope this helps, lasm
 


6'x12' is a good sized layout. You can go with larger radius curves,for one thing. I had a figure 8 inside an oval with a few branches/industrial tracks. I've used Peco and Atlas track and switches; 100 on mainline, and 83 on sidings and industrial tracks. We'll have to see if Atlas gets things straightened out or not.
 
The code 83 will look more realistic. I went with code 70. I started handlaying the track, but my Kadee spiker died and finished with Shinohara track and turnouts. The ties are brown. Shinohara is also available in code 83, turnouts and flex track. I have had excellent results with the Shinohara products. I have no hobby shops around for hundreds of miles. I have have extremely good luck ordering from http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/ , MB Klein. They seem to have a good stock of track. I have always been able to get what needed from them. If it weren't for e-retailers, I would be dead in the water.
 
I had a 5'x11' layout for a number of years. It wasn't too large, and had plenty of room to try different things. I'd say 6'x12' is a good size. I modeled mine as a belt line, with a figure 8, inside an oval. It also had a branch to and from a 'city,' which was mostly yard, and a few backdrop buildings. Have fun, and photos?!
 
I remember starting out with 6 x 16 many years ago in a garage island layout. As soon as it was running and the plaster was dry that 6x16 got shifted leaving an isle and workbench making mucho room on the other side for more... track and scenery. Good luck to you and have fun, and go check out HOexplorers: http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/...ing-the-Pinacle-Creek-Mining-amp-Timber-Co-RR it is really amazing. He beat me to all my best ideas and is better looking to boot.

Have a great thing and don't sweat the little stuff.
 
Long Locos

Greetings, I'm happy to read that the fun has started for you. I too have a small layout 7 x 14' and can only comment that my Rivarossi 2-10-2 and FEF 3 4-8-4 will not even think of anything less that 22" on the curves. It does take a lot of area for them and now I'm adding an additional layer one level up for that reason. I started with a lot of 18" curves and wanted to say make the curves big enough for your steamers or there is a special redo for you. Welcome back.
Doc'
 




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