logandsawman
Northern Pacific history enthusiast
Your trees at the base of the hill go well with the topography, nice job! lasm
The wife's HO Atlas layout...
- Thread starter wombat457
- Start date
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Thanks lasm but tree's yep, not my favorite part of scenery - very much hit and miss on them and I have 400 odd to put in.
Poo bah! you weren't suppose to see that lol but I will be moving it up a bit, I think
Thanks mate it is fun to me. As said, no rights or wrongs or rules to follow. Once I get that side of the layout cleaned off I'll post some more that show that side of the layout as a whole, then you can decide if I am any good
Thanks guys.
Thank you, I build my layouts as per the terrain and, as you said, terrain is not flat. How I do that is pretty easy, but how to explain it is a little more difficult as I use so many steps.
Basically I start with a flat base of 2" insulation foam and work up and down from that using more foam and a lot of plaster. Let e respond to these posts and I will try to put something together in a logical order that might help or at least give you something to work from and modify to suit.
Thanks and don't hesitate to ask for advice, part of the enjoyment in this is being able to help others or at least help give them a starting point to work from.
Thanks guys, as always, your kind words are appreciated and humbling.
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wombat457
I'm the one
Thanks lasm but tree's yep, not my favorite part of scenery - very much hit and miss on them and I have 400 odd to put in.
Poo bah! you weren't suppose to see that lol but I will be moving it up a bit, I think
Thanks mate it is fun to me. As said, no rights or wrongs or rules to follow. Once I get that side of the layout cleaned off I'll post some more that show that side of the layout as a whole, then you can decide if I am any good
Thanks guys.
wombat457
I'm the one
Lynnb,
Thanks needs a little more detail I think but will do that once the base scenery is in.
Cleaned all the scenery stuff of but have to clean the dust and other stuff yet; none the less, this is how the right side of the layout looks thus far. Still got a LOT to do here though ...
That is it so far. I have a few more small buildings to go in such as "Out Houses" and the like and need to do something with the area around the lake itself, just not sure what at this point. And, obviously, I need to plant all of my trees on the hill ... wow, doesn't THAT sound like fun!
Thanks needs a little more detail I think but will do that once the base scenery is in.
Cleaned all the scenery stuff of but have to clean the dust and other stuff yet; none the less, this is how the right side of the layout looks thus far. Still got a LOT to do here though ...
That is it so far. I have a few more small buildings to go in such as "Out Houses" and the like and need to do something with the area around the lake itself, just not sure what at this point. And, obviously, I need to plant all of my trees on the hill ... wow, doesn't THAT sound like fun!
Lynnb
Well-Known Member
Tony I'm a bit confused as to why you wanted to give up on the layout, I've seen other layouts that are no match to what you have accomplished. Most layouts seem to be very flat and that's it, I think you have the concept down no problem, railroads are not flat. Curious how you built up the terrain in the layers, can you break it down in your steps?
wombat457
I'm the one
Thank you, I build my layouts as per the terrain and, as you said, terrain is not flat. How I do that is pretty easy, but how to explain it is a little more difficult as I use so many steps.
Basically I start with a flat base of 2" insulation foam and work up and down from that using more foam and a lot of plaster. Let e respond to these posts and I will try to put something together in a logical order that might help or at least give you something to work from and modify to suit.
Thanks and don't hesitate to ask for advice, part of the enjoyment in this is being able to help others or at least help give them a starting point to work from.
Thanks guys, as always, your kind words are appreciated and humbling.
wombat457
I'm the one
Creating layers and terrain
Lynnb,
Okay here goes nothing ... for the fourth attempt
I always start with 2" green or pink foam as a base for my terrain, rarely does that foam form any part of the end result though.
Creating the terrain, or layers is a two step operation and is very VERY easy. Basically, it is little more than layers of 1/2" and 1" insulation foam covered with plaster.
The foam is cut to form the fundamental shape for the terrain with each layer being cut about 1" - 2" smaller than the previous. For example, if you look at the raised area between the track and road way in front of the depot, that is nothing more than a piece of 1" foam, which was shaped then covered in plaster which fashioned the final shape of the ground. I simply keep adding plaster until I like what I see and it looks proportional and realistic or at least believable. If it doesn't I cut it out and start again until it does look right to me. It is that simple!
The mountains are created the same way, with layers of foam sheeting, each layer being a little smaller than the one beneath it then the whole thing covered with plaster. I use plaster to create things such as the little section of ground between the depot road and station with the tree's on it. That is all plaster as is the sloped hill sections forming the approach to the tunnel.
If you have a "huge" layout, you could have numerous levels and plateaus and valleys and hills which would be great .
Now, for the track work I use woodlands foam risers and gradients to give me the basic "lift" for the track. That foam is then covered with plaster cloth, for stability of the gradients and risers only, then covered with about a 1/4" of plaster which I then spend hours sanding back to get a smooth as a babies bum base for the road bed.
The areas that run along side the raised track sections are either filled with scrap foam then covered with plaster OR, I just run plaster down the sides of the gradient/risers to form an embankment.
Bottom line is this ... 1/2" and 1" insulation foam to form the basic shape of the land, then a ton of plaster on top of that to create the physical terrain with bumps and dips and so forth.
When I get to the left side of the layout, I have to do some raising of areas, so I will be able to show step by step how it all works; although, all of tat raising will be plaster only.
Hope this makes sort of sense, if it doesn't just say and I will try to elaborate or clarify what I have said.
Lynnb,
Okay here goes nothing ... for the fourth attempt
I always start with 2" green or pink foam as a base for my terrain, rarely does that foam form any part of the end result though.
Creating the terrain, or layers is a two step operation and is very VERY easy. Basically, it is little more than layers of 1/2" and 1" insulation foam covered with plaster.
The foam is cut to form the fundamental shape for the terrain with each layer being cut about 1" - 2" smaller than the previous. For example, if you look at the raised area between the track and road way in front of the depot, that is nothing more than a piece of 1" foam, which was shaped then covered in plaster which fashioned the final shape of the ground. I simply keep adding plaster until I like what I see and it looks proportional and realistic or at least believable. If it doesn't I cut it out and start again until it does look right to me. It is that simple!
The mountains are created the same way, with layers of foam sheeting, each layer being a little smaller than the one beneath it then the whole thing covered with plaster. I use plaster to create things such as the little section of ground between the depot road and station with the tree's on it. That is all plaster as is the sloped hill sections forming the approach to the tunnel.
If you have a "huge" layout, you could have numerous levels and plateaus and valleys and hills which would be great .
Now, for the track work I use woodlands foam risers and gradients to give me the basic "lift" for the track. That foam is then covered with plaster cloth, for stability of the gradients and risers only, then covered with about a 1/4" of plaster which I then spend hours sanding back to get a smooth as a babies bum base for the road bed.
The areas that run along side the raised track sections are either filled with scrap foam then covered with plaster OR, I just run plaster down the sides of the gradient/risers to form an embankment.
Bottom line is this ... 1/2" and 1" insulation foam to form the basic shape of the land, then a ton of plaster on top of that to create the physical terrain with bumps and dips and so forth.
When I get to the left side of the layout, I have to do some raising of areas, so I will be able to show step by step how it all works; although, all of tat raising will be plaster only.
Hope this makes sort of sense, if it doesn't just say and I will try to elaborate or clarify what I have said.
Lynnb
Well-Known Member
Thanks Tony for the description. I was actually more curious about the buildup of ground fall. For instance one way I do it is paint the base, foamboard plaster whatever the case may be then I use polyfiber stretched out thin, wet it with wetwater and spring course clump foam, then maybe some ground up leaves twigs etc, then hit it again with a lighter finer ground foam. I also use a ground goop to get the first layer texture in earth color and build up from there. Was curious how you did yours to get your results. Sorry for making you write out all the other stuff, was interesting though as it always is.
wombat457
I'm the one
Ground Cover ...
Lynnb,
Sorry, I misunderstood. So you were asking about what I use for the actual grass's and so on then. That is even easier to answer
I use all woodlands and scenic express products, simply for convenience.
Once i have everything completed (bare plaster) I use woodlands earth and green undercoat to paint it. I don't have any formulas or anything, I just pour a little of the color, starting with earth color, onto the plaster then spread it around using a little water to help spread it if it gets too heavy in places then do the same with the green until the base color looks okay.
Next I use an earth grass blend, which is basically an earth color. First I spray a fairly heavy coating of matte medium over the area to be covered then "sprinkle lightly" the earth blend from about 6" from the layout. I put enough down to almost cover the whole area. Next I will spray it down again with the matte medium. What that does is "move the cover around", pushing it into crevasses and off of high spots where it wouldn't normally be.
Once that has dried, or almost dried, I use Turf Weeds and sprinkle that over the entire area, then Lightly spray it down with Matte. Once that has dried, or almost dried, I do the same with Turf Grass. That gives me the build up and base on which to put anything else.
Now, for the mountain, that wont be a nice pasture or front lawn, I will then use Scenic Express Turf, which is a lightish colored green. To put that down, I'll lightly spray the area with Matte then use my fingers to sprinkle the stuff around. Once that is down and dried, I then use Scenic Express Forest Cover, which is a heavier clumpier product and use the same method as above for putting that down. Because it is a heavier product, it gives the appearance of thickness and depth. That is the Clumpy stuff you see on the mountain.
At the end of the day, there are around 5 or 6 layers of different turfs and covers that are built up to provide both cover and color. The amount that is put down will, naturally, change the depth of the cover but I try to use this stuff to just cover the ground. Once that is done, the "ground" is ready for the placement of tree,s bushes and anything else you want to put ontop of it.
Hope this is the correct answer to your question Lynnb and again, sorry for my misunderstanding.
Lynnb,
Sorry, I misunderstood. So you were asking about what I use for the actual grass's and so on then. That is even easier to answer
I use all woodlands and scenic express products, simply for convenience.
Once i have everything completed (bare plaster) I use woodlands earth and green undercoat to paint it. I don't have any formulas or anything, I just pour a little of the color, starting with earth color, onto the plaster then spread it around using a little water to help spread it if it gets too heavy in places then do the same with the green until the base color looks okay.
Next I use an earth grass blend, which is basically an earth color. First I spray a fairly heavy coating of matte medium over the area to be covered then "sprinkle lightly" the earth blend from about 6" from the layout. I put enough down to almost cover the whole area. Next I will spray it down again with the matte medium. What that does is "move the cover around", pushing it into crevasses and off of high spots where it wouldn't normally be.
Once that has dried, or almost dried, I use Turf Weeds and sprinkle that over the entire area, then Lightly spray it down with Matte. Once that has dried, or almost dried, I do the same with Turf Grass. That gives me the build up and base on which to put anything else.
Now, for the mountain, that wont be a nice pasture or front lawn, I will then use Scenic Express Turf, which is a lightish colored green. To put that down, I'll lightly spray the area with Matte then use my fingers to sprinkle the stuff around. Once that is down and dried, I then use Scenic Express Forest Cover, which is a heavier clumpier product and use the same method as above for putting that down. Because it is a heavier product, it gives the appearance of thickness and depth. That is the Clumpy stuff you see on the mountain.
At the end of the day, there are around 5 or 6 layers of different turfs and covers that are built up to provide both cover and color. The amount that is put down will, naturally, change the depth of the cover but I try to use this stuff to just cover the ground. Once that is done, the "ground" is ready for the placement of tree,s bushes and anything else you want to put ontop of it.
Hope this is the correct answer to your question Lynnb and again, sorry for my misunderstanding.
Lynnb
Well-Known Member
You didn't misunderstand, I didn't make myself clear . I have a lot of the ws stuff as you said it is very convenient but at the same time as you know if you really want to build up the layers it takes a lot of there products and for the size of layout Im into that just isn't going to work so I tend to make my own ground foam, paint for painting the initial surface, matt medium, I go through a lot of white glue so I buy the cheapest which is usually $20 a gallon, right now I had purchased some pillow stuffing and I'm trying to get it colored right for base like the ws poly fiber.
. I have a lot of the ws stuff as you said it is very convenient but at the same time as you know if you really want to build up the layers it takes a lot of there products and for the size of layout Im into that just isn't going to work so I tend to make my own ground foam, paint for painting the initial surface, matt medium, I go through a lot of white glue so I buy the cheapest which is usually $20 a gallon, right now I had purchased some pillow stuffing and I'm trying to get it colored right for base like the ws poly fiber.
wombat457
I'm the one
Lynnb
It does take a lot of product, no argument there, and is one reason I try to keep it a little sparse and use a variety of different textures. That may sound counter productive in a way, but for a layout the size of mine, it is practical for me. Believe me, if I could make my own, I would!
I go through a lot of white glue and matte medium - bucket loads of the stuff. I "water down" my glue to the point of it still being "sticky and usable", other than when gluing foam together, and find I can turn a gallon of it into 2 gallons. I pretty much only use white glue with my scenery to "stiffen up" some of the foliage and hold it place while the matte medium takes hold and dries. I have found that matte medium seems to go a lot further than the white glue as well.
Right now I am at a stall, contemplating how to put in my tree's, which I put in with super glue, to begin with, then once that dries I use matte medium. The super glue firmly holds the tree's in place, preventing them from moving and is only for just that. The matte medium and (sometimes) white glue is what ultimately holds them in place on a more permanent basis. Also saves having to sit there and hold a tree in place for half an hour
Anyway, thanks again for your kind words and I am looking forward to seeing the step of your layout build.
It does take a lot of product, no argument there, and is one reason I try to keep it a little sparse and use a variety of different textures. That may sound counter productive in a way, but for a layout the size of mine, it is practical for me. Believe me, if I could make my own, I would!
I go through a lot of white glue and matte medium - bucket loads of the stuff. I "water down" my glue to the point of it still being "sticky and usable", other than when gluing foam together, and find I can turn a gallon of it into 2 gallons. I pretty much only use white glue with my scenery to "stiffen up" some of the foliage and hold it place while the matte medium takes hold and dries. I have found that matte medium seems to go a lot further than the white glue as well.
Right now I am at a stall, contemplating how to put in my tree's, which I put in with super glue, to begin with, then once that dries I use matte medium. The super glue firmly holds the tree's in place, preventing them from moving and is only for just that. The matte medium and (sometimes) white glue is what ultimately holds them in place on a more permanent basis. Also saves having to sit there and hold a tree in place for half an hour
Anyway, thanks again for your kind words and I am looking forward to seeing the step of your layout build.
wombat457
I'm the one
Just a quicky here ...
I am getting a Canon Camcorder tomorrow and am also getting a Mini Cam that I can fit to a train. Obviously it is for the purpose of videoing my layout so you guys can see it actually working. Just do me one small favor though, don't be too harsh with my videoing efforts - never done this or even used a camcorder before so my first attempts will probably be disastrous
I am getting a Canon Camcorder tomorrow and am also getting a Mini Cam that I can fit to a train. Obviously it is for the purpose of videoing my layout so you guys can see it actually working. Just do me one small favor though, don't be too harsh with my videoing efforts - never done this or even used a camcorder before so my first attempts will probably be disastrous
Lynnb
Well-Known Member
Try just poking a hole the size of the tree truck and putting straight white glue in the hole and stick the tree in. If you find tree is floppy you can put a clothes pin to the truck to hold it in place. Once the glue dries it will dry clear and if you have to you can sprinkle some ground up leaves and stuff around the trunk and surrounding area. Probably will be a few fallen trees around as well and if the newer looking trigs the represent fallen trees are to brite spritz them with the A/I.
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