The wife's HO Atlas layout...

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All of the tree's I have are woodlands, although the huge majority were hand made by Brad, one of our members here. I do have a couple of packs of other trees from Scenic that will give me a further 40 tree's. I am not even sure what type they are but think they are are an assortment of deciduous and pines etc. I will have to scatter them around so they don't stand out or it might look a little weird.

When you say "don't forget the burnt grass" do you mean to sprinkle some of that over what I have done? Or, just in the areas of dead fall?
 
Try the burnt grass with just a light sprinkle here and there and you will see. If you get too much do some fine green, before you know it you have a layer build up.
 


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Looking Goooood....!
 
Fantastic to see, and I can only imagine how exciting to see something actually running, especially given the frustrations of late summer.... Way to go.

Sent from the DairyStatePhone. Typoes and bad auto corrects included at no extra charge.
 
Erik,

Thanks mate appreciate it. Have a long way to go still but no pressure now, so it should be smooth sailing from now till the end, when ever that comes which might be in another 8 feet of layout. That is of course unless I start again :)
 
Thank you, although I need to make a lot of improvements in the video area me thinks. One consolation, they can't get any worse :)
 


Quick update - having received my supplies, I have continued with the ballasting of the track which is moving a little slower than I would like. As such, I don't think seeing photo's of ballasted track is all that exciting or inspirational, but wanted to let everyone know that things are moving ahead, or more accurately, to the left.
 
Not exciting to see really unless you've never seen it done and the techniques used ,for me I did miles of it and I've already shared my method or tips but for many others that are to shy to ask may just enjoy where your at.
Either way good to hear your moving forwaed .
 
Your right Lynn, I didn't consider those new to the hobby, or have not seen it before. I will post some shots and an explanation of how I do mine which, no doubt, will be the same as everyone else.
 
Ballasting and updates

Here are some shots of the ballasting I have done and are in the process of finishing:


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Update of the fenced area with proposed house in place:

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For those interested, the way I do my ballasting is a s follows:

Firstly I make sure the area to be ballasted is clean and free from obstacles
I then run a line of Ballast down between the rails, not too much as the ballast needs to spread
I then use a 1/2" soft, long bristled artist brush to spread the ballast between the rails down to the level of the ties
I then use an eye dropper to soak the ballast with 91% alcohol
Next is dripping a mix of white glue and water (50/50) down the center of the rails
I will then wait for a few minutes for the glue to settle then use a model knife to re-position any ballast that moved during either the alcohol or glue phase

A couple of things to remember though.

I only run out the ballast over about a 12" section at a time. That ballast will spread out to around 16" to 18" if kept between the rails.

When spreading the ballast, keep the brush vertical and don't push down on it, let the weight of the brush do most of the work. You will probably have to brush over the ballast 3 or 4 times to get it down to the level of the ties. When spreading it, try to spread it from the rail to keep any pieces from building up on the inside of the rail. Any ballast that does can be removed after you have laid the glued

When ballasting the outside of the rails, use the same method; however, once you have laid the glued wait a minute or two then gently push any ballast back toward your road bed. I use a piece of HO scale sheet to do that and to shape the ballast to conform with the shape of the road bed.

Once everything has dried, I give mine 24 hours, I will go back over the area with the brush to remove any loose pieces OR to add a little more ballast where it may have fallen out or come away from the road bed.

The essential thing is to work in manageable lengths of track, to work slowly and to ensure that NO BALLAST gets lodged on the insides of the rails.

Doing turnouts or points is the same as described above, if you do them at all. Sometimes I will, other times I wont. Things to remember when ballasting points though:

Ensure there are NO obstructions between the point rails and the main track.
Ensure that ballast is cleaned out from the frog area and the guide rails
Once your points have been ballasted, ensure that your points still MOVE. If they don't, wait for the ballast to dry then use a little water or alcohol over the tie bars then move the tie bars back and forth until they become free. They will become free and should do so very quickly. Periodically move the points back and forth until the water or alcohol completely dries.

I think that covers it pretty much. A video of the process would be a lot clearer though I think.
 
Tony,
Nice job on the fence, I like it.

Scott

Thanks Scott. It is an easy and quick fence to build, just strips of 1/16th bass wood and Micro Mark Grey Weathering. Can't get much easier than that :)

Layout looks great, I like the dirty look of the engine. Looks like it's been working a lot!

Steve


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Steve,

Thank you and while I agree with you that a "dirty look" train gives the appearance of a lot of work, the truth is that mine have been sitting idle, collecting dust, for way too long.

Nice Tony, careful with the ballast around the switches.

Ballasting around the switches is the hardest part (if you like). I bring the ballast up to the switch, but don't actually ballast the switch area.

The main thing for me is to ensure that the tie bar is operational and the points move as they should, after ballast has been laid. All of my points are working without impediment.

Needless to say, the more coarse the ballast, the less problems you are likely to run into when it comes to the turnouts. I originally used medium ballast, which I think looks more realistic, but changed to coarse ballast to simplify the process. It was a trade off that I had to make.
 


Johne230,

Thank you Sir. A lot more to do though, but that is the fun part. Hopefully I will have something of more interest to post in the next day or so.

Thanks for looking and your kind words.
 




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