The new layout 2023

[ctclibby]

Try this guy, I've used him for the last 4 years for all my signal's lights etc. never had an issue. This is his UK but you'll find him on Fleabay in the US.

WEHONEST | eBay UK Stores

You are buying from a Reliable and Honest Sellers!

www.ebay.co.uk

These guy's may be able to help with your IR detection as well.

BLOCKsignalling

BLOCKsignalling

blocksignalling.co.uk

Smudge: Thanks, although I already knew about this store and have purchased from them.

The time period my railroad is in warrants the older 'search light' style signals for the most part, but is upgrading to 2/3 light signals and possibly some dwarf types. Most of the signal types Control Point point end are search light ( 2 heads one RGB each head ) and I have not found any at a reasonable cost. There are some frog end that are that too, unless the frog end happens to need an 'advance' signal, then two 3 lights on each mast on both tracks ( switch normal, switch reverse ). I don't even want to think about a signal bridge protecting 3 or 4 tracks going under it ... yet.

One of my pet peeve's is signal brightness and hue. In the case of brightness, if you are running at night with the run of the mill signals, you almost blind yourself looking at the things. The apparent brightness of the things can be changed. Hue is a whole nother can of worms. LED's from different manufactures have different color variations, in fact even the same manufacture can be different with different production runs. I figured that if I am going to roll my own, I may as well deal with both. So, all signal LED's need to be RGB's - with a search light you would need 5 wires ( 3 for color, 2 for multiplexing ), if 3 light signal - that would be 6 wires ( 3 for color, 3 for multiplexing ) running down the mast which could make those mast's fat. Add an advanced signal to that mast you now are looking at 9 wires ( 3 for color, 6 for multiplexing ). Am I going overboard? Maybe. Probably gonna be magnet wire to the rescue as most LED's are pretty bright running at 15mA. There is more to it for this, but that should give you and idea.

IR emitter/detector pairs are easy-peasy. Many moons ago I worked for a manufacture that made banking equipment that moved paper of which had to be location detected. Not a big deal all-in-all.

Later

 

[Smudge617]

The time period my railroad is in warrants the older 'search light' style signals for the most part, but is upgrading to 2/3 light signals and possibly some dwarf types. Most of the signal types Control Point point end are search light ( 2 heads one RGB each head ) and I have not found any at a reasonable cost.

Are these the type your looking for ?

Would this type work

I'll admit although this is one very nice cantilever signal bridge, but definitely pricey

 

[ctclibby]

Are these the type your looking for ?

View attachment 171265

Would this type work

View attachment 171268

Smudge: The top ones are what I have in mind, although the manufacturing accuracy of them is somewhat questionable. Besides the obvious flaws, they need platforms, relay boxes and some other things on them for better eye candy. Just as a side note, look at the brightness, it is not even color to color and way to bright. As to the Hue's; red is too yellow, and the yellow is ...um... lacking in my view. Wonder how bright these would be in a night view? Those green aspects would have a circle of light on the wall at 20Ft. I know that both of those problems can be fixed, this was just to bring your attention to the differences.

The bottom ones are 'speed' signals of which my railroad does not use.

Thanks for the input!

Later

 

[Smudge617]

The top ones are what I have in mind, although the manufacturing accuracy of them is somewhat questionable. Besides the obvious flaws, they need platforms, relay boxes and some other things on them for better eye candy.

OK, I get what your saying now, this is more like your looking for.

 

[Iron Horseman]

OK, I get what your saying now, this is more like your looking for.
View attachment 171285

Wow that is sharp. I guess also expensive.

 

[ctclibby]

OK, I get what your saying now, this is more like your looking for.
View attachment 171285

Ya - I think that I have one of the kits - don't remember the manufacture just now. Spendy even as a kit! If it is the same, all brass etched parts for the mast, targets and sun shade, platforms and ladders, small in HO, N - tiny stuff.

Later

 

[rgeiter]

Should my second level be the same depth as the first level. What I’m planning is to have both levels two feet deep, or should the first level be three feet and the second level be two feet? I don’t want my belly to wreck trains when I’m switching the second level…if you know what I mean.

 

[ctclibby]

Should my second level be the same depth as the first level. What I’m planning is to have both levels two feet deep, or should the first level be three feet and the second level be two feet? I don’t want my belly to wreck trains when I’m switching the second level…if you know what I mean.

That is up to you. Mine are the same width at 28" and do not foresee problems.

Later

 

[santafewillie]

Should my second level be the same depth as the first level. What I’m planning is to have both levels two feet deep, or should the first level be three feet and the second level be two feet? I don’t want my belly to wreck trains when I’m switching the second level…if you know what I mean.

My upper level mostly matches the lower level in depth. In the few places that it doesn't , it is about 2" narrower. This works for me. No science here, just arbitrary when I was building.

 

[rgeiter]

My upper level mostly matches the lower level in depth. In the few places that it doesn't , it is about 2" narrower. This works for me. No science here, just arbitrary when I was building.

Cool. That what I want to do since I have all these 2 foot by 4 foot sections.

I’m going to have very little to build once I get going.

 

[Smudge617]

Ya - I think that I have one of the kits - don't remember the manufacture just now. Spendy even as a kit! If it is the same, all brass etched parts for the mast, targets and sun shade, platforms and ladders, small in HO, N - tiny stuff.

Later

It's from Showcase Miniatures.

 

[Smudge617]

Wow that is sharp. I guess also expensive.

from Showcase Miniatures ($24) so not exactly cheap, but I've seen more expensive ones.

 

[rgeiter]

Hung some drywall tonight. It was the best drywall I’ve ever used. It was free.
Anyway here are a few pics of the “floor plan”. It will definitely be modified.

 

[Smudge617]

Hung some drywall tonight. It was the best drywall I’ve ever used. It was free.
Anyway here are a few pics of the “floor plan”. It will definitely be modified.
View attachment 171788View attachment 171789View attachment 171791View attachment 171792

Love the space you have available, do you have a timescale in mind to have everything up and running again ?

 

[rgeiter]

Love the space you have available, do you have a timescale in mind to have everything up and running again ?

Thanks. It’s a decent space.

Not really. Getting use to being a homeowner again. I don’t have the free time or the extra cash I’ve had in the past. Hopefully, maybe, possibly in a year.

 

[rgeiter]

Well, I kind of, sort of did a little work on the non-existing layout tonight.

I’m still trying to figure out the heights. So far these two heights look like they’ll work. I want to keep the original 40” height on the lower level. This way I can still store my storage tubs two high. At 61 inches, the second level will be at nose height. (For me).
To all you guys who have built a two level layout before. Any suggestions or advice will be welcomed. I’ll try to respond promptly to any questions. Thanks

 

[Rico]

Wow look at all that scenery material in the walls… pull it out pull it out!

 

[threedeeprincellc]

I like using foam but that's just because I'm used to it and I have it readily available.

 

[rgeiter]

I like using foam but that's just because I'm used to it and I have it readily available.

I was thinking about foam for the upper level. It would be lighter. Definitely something I’ll look into.

 

[rgeiter]

It begins, well the drywall part anyway. The 2x4’s will be used to build the corners of the basement. The pre-cast basement walls don’t have studs in the corners. More about that later.