The new layout 2023

[rgeiter]

Bob: 12/3 is needed unless that was a typo. Since you are buying individual wires - do some sort of color change between the 2 circuits. Make it easier 2 years down the road when you want to change something.

L8r

12 awg stranded. Three colors, black, white and green, all separate 500 ft. rolls.

 

[rgeiter]

Well, it took me like 3 hours pulling wires but I got it done. All that work for one outlet. I’ll tackle the other 6 this weekend. They will be on a separate circuit. The saving grace was that I didn’t glue the 90’s. Had to pull apart two of them due to a hang up. Once pass those I was able to use pull string.

 

[Rico]

Had to pull apart two of them due to a hang up. Once pass those I was able to use pull string.

I can relate to that, I ran about thirty feet underground to a shed and the lead let go less than a foot away!

 

[rgeiter]

I can relate to that, I ran about forty feet underground to a shed and the lead let go less than a foot away!

That sucks!

 

[rgeiter]

Outlets wired and everything works great. Didn’t take many pics, just wanted to get it done.
Now I can get another coat of paint on the floor. Had to put everything up on the layout. This will also test the builders work!

While moving all the stuff around, I didn’t know what to do with the last six large sections of my old layout. So I decided to de- construct them. Was able to save all the track and switches. Used some of the wood to build some shelving in my garage. Lots of little projects getting completed.

 

[rgeiter]

Was on vacation last week so, obviously, I didn’t get to work on the layout. But I did get some time last night.
I’m currently cutting out the upper level from cardboard to see how everything will look and fit. These will then act as templates for cutting the plywood. This will help me reduce waste. The upper level plywood will rest mostly on cut 2x4’s placed at one foot apart. Here is what I have so far. I like it a lot.

This is where the double track splits to single track, (left) then passes back through the backdrop (right) to double track again. That make sense? Sure it does!
Later.

 

[traiNscale]

looking good.
but if i would build it, then i would take the curve a bit more into the plate.
not right at the end of the table, so that you can maybe build around 5-10cm of landscape in front of the curve.

but it looks nice. would love to have that much space

cheers

 

[rgeiter]

looking good.
but if i would build it, then i would take the curve a bit more into the plate.
not right at the end of the table, so that you can maybe build around 5-10cm of landscape in front of the curve.

but it looks nice. would love to have that much space

cheers

The track will be roughly in the center of the cardboard. I think that leaves about 3/4” on either side of the ties. The hardboard fascia will also rise about 1/2 to 3/4 inches above the track. It will also act as a “guard rail” to catch any derailed car or engines.

 

[rgeiter]

Finally got down to the layout tonight. It’s been a while! Got the sub roadbed done for the upper level in this area. Made some decent progress. It’s not secured down just yet. Next, I’ll need to cut a tunnel portal through the backdrop and connect the sub roadbed there then I’ll start the next big curve at the far end of the long straight away. Here’s tonight’s progress.

Later

 

[logandsawman]

Finally got down to the layout tonight. It’s been a while! Got the sub roadbed done for the upper level in this area. Made some decent progress. It’s not secured down just yet. Next, I’ll need to cut a tunnel portal through the backdrop and connect the sub roadbed there then I’ll start the next big curve at the far end of the long straight away. Here’s tonight’s progress.

Later
View attachment 223381View attachment 223382View attachment 223383

That is shaping up to be one beautiful railroad!

 

[rgeiter]

Laid a few feet of roadbed last night. I need to see how this curve will lay out. It’s tighter than I expected. I’ll have to make it work. Made my template for the curve on “hidden”side of the layout and cut portal in. First time using a Rotozip. I must have been a little aggressive because I broke the two bits that came with it. Oops!

 

[ctclibby]

Bob: Welcome to the rotozip world! Looks like you cut 1/4 MDF ( 3rd pix ). What size bit? Suggestions: The 1/8" inch bits are pretty fragile and flex easy. That flex causes the breakage. Best bet is to keep the rotozip perpendicular to the work as much as possible and only just enough bit sticking through the material to make the cut. Ya, there are times... Some bits are not fluted all the way to the tip: a fence kinda, so watch for that. Always work the rotozip clockwise and don't force it, let it gnaw the material as it can. Bit speed is another consideration. Too slow and you have a bucking horse, too fast and you have burn marks. Inbetween those, you are pretty much cutting butter. You might even get a thicker bit. I use 1/4" for any material thicker than 3/16". I have done 5/8" ply with a rotozip, but it is an exercise of patience/frustration and pretty slow going. Plunge router would be better, but then you have logistic problems with the circular base.

I have enjoyed your layout progress - keep up the great work!

L8r

 

[rgeiter]

Bob: Welcome to the rotozip world! Looks like you cut 1/4 MDF ( 3rd pix ). What size bit? Suggestions: The 1/8" inch bits are pretty fragile and flex easy. That flex causes the breakage. Best bet is to keep the rotozip perpendicular to the work as much as possible and only just enough bit sticking through the material to make the cut. Ya, there are times... Some bits are not fluted all the way to the tip: a fence kinda, so watch for that. Always work the rotozip clockwise and don't force it, let it gnaw the material as it can. Bit speed is another consideration. Too slow and you have a bucking horse, too fast and you have burn marks. Inbetween those, you are pretty much cutting butter. You might even get a thicker bit. I use 1/4" for any material thicker than 3/16". I have done 5/8" ply with a rotozip, but it is an exercise of patience/frustration and pretty slow going. Plunge router would be better, but then you have logistic problems with the circular base.

I have enjoyed your layout progress - keep up the great work!

L8r

Thanks. It turns out that it came with the drywall bits. They did not like the two layers of Masonite/ hardboard. ( Non tempered ) Went back to Lowe’s and bought the multi purpose bits and had no problem. Thanks for the advise. It will come in handy later.

 

[rgeiter]

Got the upper return loop corked and painted. This is as far as I can go for now. I have a big curve to build but it might be in the way of the plumbers next week, so I’ll stop here. I’m going to start laying out the lower level return loop this afternoon after work. I should have that done this weekend.

 

[rgeiter]

Wow! I managed to save some of my foam embankment from the old layout and was able to work them into this layout. I tried to match them as best as I could. This will save a lot of work.

Getting ready to lay the cork for the lower level in this area. As I mentioned before, I have the upper level curve template made as seen in the second pic.

Later.

 

[rgeiter]

Making some decent progress.

 

[rgeiter]

I just uploaded a new video. Enjoy!

 

[traiNscale]

progress looking good!

 

[PMW]

Looks excellent so far! Good for you I'm looking forward to seeing more updates

 

[rgeiter]

Kinda disappointed on the radius at the location. The lower level curve is a 30” radius and the upper is a 34” radius. My Amtrak cars and my longer locos look ridiculous going around them. But it’s what I have to work with and I’m gonna try to camouflage the curves as best as possible.

In this pic, I temporarily tacked down the lower level track to see what I have. Meh….