First check that the switch is a on/on should be a plate on one side that looks like this.Hmm - I guess that would be okay, after all - that is how it is in the real world ........... If I get tired of them, I can swap out the switches later.
So lets say I use these multi pinned Switches the DPDT ones. What wires go where? Could you draw me a diagram for that? I learn better if I can see what is happening
By a strange coincidence, I have the A/B mate to that, plus the passenger set to go with that. They do run really well.My "sucker test train" arrived from Hiawatha Hobbies. Don't like the color scheme BUT, that can change right:
Have to say - never dealt with Hiawatha before but they certainly were quick about the order out. Impressed with them.
Hmm - they might be cheap to buy but I guess you pay in other ways - Nothing to say what it is Chris, nothing at all. Think I'll scrap them for this use and might just go and buy myself a few locally. I can always use switches for structure lighting
A small pair of pliers and a soldering iron. Apply heat to the joint, and use the pliers to apply a twisting motion to encourage the low rail to come up level.One issue has been identified - a "bad join":
I am not sure what happened here as you can see the rail joiner is in place and where it should be; however, it appears as the rail on the right has dropped creating a "bump".That doesn't create a big problem with trains running from left to right; but going right to left - they derail immediately.
Because the rail joiner seems to be where it should be, any suggestions on how to fix this WITHOUT having to replace that section of track?
I swear by Kato engines and wont have anything else unless I want steam, then it is BLI
Thanks mate, I'll give it a try. Worse case scenario is I may to replace a section of the trackwork.
If you want, as long as you only get a couple, you've ordered 36 of those switches already haven't you?Hmm - they might be cheap to buy but I guess you pay in other ways - Nothing to say what it is Chris, nothing at all. Think I'll scrap them for this use and might just go and buy myself a few locally. I can always use switches for structure lighting
@wombat457
I backed up a few pages on this thread but can't figure it out. What exactly are you wanting to do with the signals and these switches? Is it simply to flip the switch and change the signal aspect from one color to the other, or are you also connecting this to turnouts? If I read it right you ended up getting the 2 aspect rather than the triple?
Then what you said is perfect. Assuming these are the same as the wires shown in that diagram a few pages back. Negative power goes to the center pole of the switch. One side of the switch goes to the red and the other to green. Then the Positive power goes to the black wire. Repeat for each light. Flipped one way will be red and the other will be green.
I understand what you AND Smudge have said - at least the words anyway. I am still confused as to how the "switch" gets its power if the power wire goes from the power source directly to the Signal, or doesn't the switch need it - power that is?
