The “Give Tony Grief” Thread

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wombat457 said:
Oops sorry, train control signals - the stop and go type :) I have no idea what I need, seriously, and no idea of the type I need or how many even. When it comes to electronics I probably know more about brain surgery - and I know nothing about brain surgery :(

I'd also like them to actually work if for no reason than effect, even if I have to change them manually. I'm not into this automated stuff - takes all the fun out of running trains when something inanimate (a computer) is running them for you.
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What are you looking at, I use two aspect ground signals, I think you guys call then dwarf signals or the overhead gantry type.?

Looking good Tony, love that long sweeping curves, gonna look great.
 
Nice progress so far. Sorry that I can't help with signals, as I never educated myself about them; although I would really like to do something with them. I have some operating ones, both dwarf and mast types but I have never installed them. So I am looking forward to seeing what you learn about them. I have some non-operating ones that my grandsons gave me for Christmas about 8 years ago that are randomly placed where they can see them on the lower level.
 
Tony: Boy, you opened a can-o-worms wanting signals. You do have choices though. Most of those choices will require electronics and script programming. Have a look at JMRI and you could see some of the hoops to jump. If you really want to go back in time, Google Bruce Chubb. He engineered signaling/detection for his fairly large railroad using TTL circuits many moons ago. ( Transistor to Transistor Logic ).

1st thing I would do is to 'block' your main line(s). In this case, two signals protects one block. In other words there are signals at both ends of each block facing away from it. If you want automatic signals, each block would need detection ( more electronics ) which would be sent to what ever signal/block controller you come up with. Sounds pretty simple doesn't it? Well, YMMV. Once you get 'blocked', you then know how many signals you would need, also detectors.

N scale signals are tiny. If you decide to build your own, a whole new hobby happens. It is better now days as those SMT LED's are pretty tiny for the most part whereas the GOW bulbs are not..

So, now you get to decide what aspect/indications you want. I use:
Red
Yellow
Flashing Yellow
Green
Dark

Some say Dark is not an aspect, but it is as the detection/control stuff could have broke. I use absolute aspects when it comes to Red and Dark. Aspects/Indication(s) are:
Red/Dark: Stop/do not pass signal
Yellow/Flashing Yellow: Slow to some restricted speed
Green: go go go

I know that there are signal drivers available with DCC stuff, along with control but I have not looked into that as it makes sense to me that DCC is for Sound/Train Control only.

Generally speaking - you have a ton of research to do. Welcome to my world!

Later
 


@ctclibby

Okay - so I almost got through your first paragraph before I thought to myself - not a hope in hell Tony!!!

And that is where it is going to remain :) Time to start looking for something else to add to the layout :oops:

I did read ALL of your post, just made my mind up about signals etc in your first paragraph :)
 
wombat457 said:
@ctclibby

Okay - so I almost got through your first paragraph before I thought to myself - not a hope in hell Tony!!!

And that is where it is going to remain :) Time to start looking for something else to add to the layout :oops:

I did read ALL of your post, just made my mind up about signals etc in your first paragraph :)
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Tony: Totally understand - Electronic hardware is my 2nd hobby as I can use my favorite programming language: solder; along with my other favorite programming language: Assembly Language.

Signals do add to the ambience as they are cool. You can still have a couple of signals that are manually controlled. My first start with them was a 2 light GOW route signal using DC and a 'house room light switch' which ...um... controlled a junction. That was when I was 12 or so. Thought to myself - this is cool but realized that doing a whole layout would be a PITA.

Later
 
Have only got ONE more join to do to complete the "Outside Track". Once that is done, I will be able to run a train and let it go :)

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I will say this - I am having one hell of a time with these bloody rail joiners. Can't wait for my Peco ones to arrive :oops:
 
ctclibby said:
Tony: Totally understand - Electronic hardware is my 2nd hobby as I can use my favorite programming language: solder; along with my other favorite programming language: Assembly Language.

Signals do add to the ambience as they are cool. You can still have a couple of signals that are manually controlled. My first start with them was a 2 light GOW route signal using DC and a 'house room light switch' which ...um... controlled a junction. That was when I was 12 or so. Thought to myself - this is cool but realized that doing a whole layout would be a PITA.

Later
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I might be able to handle putting in some Signals and then wiring them up to a switch so I could manually change them from Red to Green (or whatever colors they were.

How hard would that be and what would I need?

Sorry to bug you with these questions mate, but I also think having signals that actually lit would be great and add to the layouts feel :)
 
wombat457 said:
I might be able to handle putting in some Signals and then wiring them up to a switch so I could manually change them from Red to Green (or whatever colors they were.

How hard would that be and what would I need?

Sorry to bug you with these questions mate, but I also think having signals that actually lit would be great and add to the layouts feel :)
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Tony: Questions don't bug me. You probably have everything you need, except for the signal(s). Most now days use LED's with dropping resistor which is powered by some DC voltage - kinda like wiring up a headlight or building lights. Find an el-cheapo signal and play with it. If you decide 'you can do this', go for better signal or signals.

Later
 
ctclibby said:
Tony: Questions don't bug me. You probably have everything you need, except for the signal(s). Most now days use LED's with dropping resistor which is powered by some DC voltage - kinda like wiring up a headlight or building lights. Find an el-cheapo signal and play with it. If you decide 'you can do this', go for better signal or signals.

Later
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Thanks and wiring up buildings for light is easy - so if it isn't going to be any different then I'll find some cheapo sigs. One last question (for the moment) ro manually change the signal from Red to Green (for example) what "switches" will I need?
 
wombat457 said:
Thanks and wiring up buildings for light is easy - so if it isn't going to be any different then I'll find some cheapo sigs. One last question (for the moment) ro manually change the signal from Red to Green (for example) what "switches" will I need?
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Tony: Depends... you knew that would happen ... right? If you want one aspect or the other aspect on all of the time; SPDT ( toggle ) switch. Want them off on occasion? SPDT with center off.

Later
 


NorthBrit said:
I am sure you know It's the questions not asked that are a bug.

David
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David, yep I do BUT I also know that some people don't like answering questions, or too many and I really don't like bugging people but find it clearer to ask someone than try to watch some dumb UTube stuff or read something that is full of assumed knowledge - if you know what I mean.
 
wombat457 said:
So I can use the same switch for either situation?
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Tony: If you want to turn them off - the center off switch will work for everything, if you don't care, the normal toggle will work. Those are usually cheaper also. Keep in mind that a toggle switch switches between 2 values only. If you want to add Yellow to your Red/Green, then more work and head scratching will have to be done.

Later
 


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