ModelRailroadForums.com is a free
Model Railroad Discussion Forum and
photo gallery. We cover all scales and sizes of model railroads. Online since 2002, it's one of the oldest and largest model railroad forums on the web. Whether you're a master model railroader or just getting started, you'll find something of interest here.
Evening Guys,
I have a bunch of these LED lights for my buildings:
The problem I am having is how to mount them in the buildings. Although they are square and "flat" the prongs seem solid making them impossible to "flush mount" to any ceiling of any building.
Has anyone used these and, if so, how did you flush mount them to your buildings?
Well-Known Member
Staff member
Can you mount them on top of the ceiling with the dome of the light poking through a round hole? That way, you should be able to glue them in place.
Can you mount them on top of the ceiling with the dome of the light poking through a round hole? That way, you should be able to glue them in place.
I don't think so Toot'n. If I understand what you mean, that would put the bulk of the light on top of the roof, which would look a little funny I think.
Well-Known Member
Staff member
Ah, you did say ceiling, rather than roof. In that case I would suggest making a small styrene box to fit it in, angled to suit the roof, with the LED mounted as I said and glue it up inside. Or just a strip of styrene from one side to the other of the building, with them mounted on/in, at or slightly above, ceiling height.
Toot'n,
Probably should have used "roof" as opposed to ceiling but what you suggest is a good idea. If I were to put in a "ceiling" between floors, poking the "contacts through the ceiling would work as you suggested initially though. Thanks mate.
Well-Known Member
Staff member
My differentiation between roof and ceiling was automatic as I built houses for a while.
Should have also said that I am trying to put these things into Pre Built commercial buildings (Woodlands and DPM Kits) too. I probably could put false ceilings in beneath the rooves and still use your initial thought. That might give me a chance to play around with styrene, something I haven't (as yet) tried.
Solder your wires as close to the base of the pins as possible and then cut the pins off as close to your solder as you can with a pair of side cutters.
Solder your wires as close to the base of the pins as possible and then cut the pins off as close to your solder as you can with a pair of side cutters.
Of course. Funny how the most obvious solution is the one you never think of. Cheers mewade30.
That worked nicely mewade - thanks for the suggestion.
Have you powered them up yet ? It's my understanding these were designed for their super brightness. (?) Thinking they may be overkill in light output for the interior of a structure.
Mark.
Mark,
Yep, but only one in a "test" building and you are right, they are very bright for an ordinary town shop and tend to give a bluish tinge. They would, possibly, be okay for a factory or a premises that requires a lot of light though. They did come with 470 ohm resistor but I think twice that would be appropriate, perhaps even a 1500 ohm.
You can put some paper under them. It will diffuse the light more and may also cut it down some. I use the paper to get rid of the spot light type beam from some LEDs. LEDS can be dimmed to a certain degree by lowering the power to them. It would depend on how you are limiting the power on them how you would limit more. Since I generally use resistors to limit the power I would try going to a higher resistance and see How that works. LEDS will generally decrease in brightness to a certain point and then go out completely.
Richard
Seems rather counter-productive .... get a super bright, high power LED, then try to figure out how to dim it !
I think the real answer is obvious ....
Mark.
Mark,
In hindsight you are right. Actually, I am re thinking my entire structure lighting. Considering the architecture of the buildings I have, LED's are probably NOT appropriate, any LED's. I am thinking of going back to the, albeit cheap and nasty, Model Power Stick on type of light that gives a more realistic lighting effect.
Actually, LEDs are a very viable option for structure lighting - that's all I use. I use the water clear warm white variety in the 3mm size for most applications. For spot lighting, I use them as is. If I need a more diffused lighting, I sand the surface of the LED which dispurses the light more.
Mark.
Mark,
What is the difference between what you use and a standard warm white LED? Is it just in the name or is there a difference in the light itself? If there is a difference across the board, may I ask where you buy your LED's from as I don't recall seeing Water Clear Warm White LED's where I have been buying mine.
No difference that I'm aware of. What is meant by water clear is that the epoxy case of the LED itself is perfectly clear with no opaqueness to it. I buy mine in bulk on ebay. Numerous Asian sellers have them for just a few dollars for a hundred of them and free shipping to boot !
Mark.
Mark,
Thanks, appreciate it.
Affiliate Disclosure: We may receive a commision from some of the links and ads shown on this website
(Learn More Here)
