Steel wheels in HO scale. What are the pros and cons?

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Mopac Junkie

The Thread Killer
as previously stated im back into this hobby for some six months now. While i was hellbent on continuing to use my old hook/horn couplers, ive since seen the light of what i was missing out on with my Kadee #5's (love them). With the same though process in mind i am wondering if i a missing out on something in regard to steel wheels. Advice/opinions please.
 


My apologies but I’m asking what is the difference. Y’all are telling me that they are better , I’m asking in what way?
I've been trying to upgrade mine a little at a time, (I have too many projects going at the same time😁) and I've found that the advantages of metal over plastic are as follows: Metal wheels generally roll better, so you can tack on a few more cars if you want to. Metal wheels are less prone to issues like wobbling, so the stay on the rails better. (Also because they are slightly heavier.) And, not only are they easier to clean the gunk off of when it builds up, they also tend to stay cleaner longer. Plastic wheels tend to be very hard to get clean and keep clean. I have plastic wheels that I can't get totally clean no matter what I do to them.
 


Please note:
Kadee wheels come in different diameters so make sure you replace like for like otherwise your coupler heights will be thrown off. For the nit pickers they also have ribbed backs and flat or smooth backs depending on the era of cars you are modeling.

I am not sure so take this part with a grain of salt, one manufacturer uses plastic axles to insulate between right and left wheel and but read somewhere that the plastic axles are not true and can deform allowing derailments. Someone with more knowledge of the subject than me please weigh in. It could have been bad info.
 
Please note:
Kadee wheels come in different diameters so make sure you replace like for like otherwise your coupler heights will be thrown off. For the nit pickers they also have ribbed backs and flat or smooth backs depending on the era of cars you are modeling.

I am not sure so take this part with a grain of salt, one manufacturer uses plastic axles to insulate between right and left wheel and but read somewhere that the plastic axles are not true and can deform allowing derailments. Someone with more knowledge of the subject than me please weigh in. It could have been bad info.
Good to know
 
Kadee are mainly metal wheels with plastic axles, which I dislike, there are quite a few manufacturers of metal wheels, Walthers, Kadee and Intermountain to name a few. I get mine from China all metal wheels and axles.

As already mentioned they are different sizes and types, ridge back, smooth etc. so check the type and size you need as @boatwrench has already posted.

Metal wheelsets are easy to clean when needed, keep track track clean for longer, I will mention that one side is insulated so fitting them with power pickups as I do, is simple and easy to do.
Axles won't deform and there is less friction in the journal as metal axles have pin-point ends whereas plastic axles tend to have blunt ends.

Just be aware when fitting all metal axes you need to space the trucks to fit the axle, difficult if it's a Bettendorf metal truck as they are easily broken.

Plastic wheels tend to pick up dirt easily and carry it around your track, they will also cause drag and derailments, along with wheel wobble its also easy to deform the axles
Track cleaning needs to be carried out more often.
 
OK, I'm a little late in reading the original post, but here goes. I have put metal wheels on all of my 800 freight cars that didn't already have them, I own a lot of 30+ year old Athearn and Roundhouse cars. I have found the following advantages, some of which have been mentioned already.
Plastic wheels produce static electricity when they roll and therefore are more prone to attracting and picking up dirt and gunk; metal wheels do not. They stay cleaner and don't spread the gunk around. Metal wheels are heavier and therefore lower the center of gravity of the car more, resulting in less possibility of derailment and wobble. Ideally good trackwork alone eliminates derailment. I like the "clackety-clack" sound from metal wheels going over rail joints.
Note that metal wheels alone do not necessarily roll better, it's the axle endpoints and truck centers that make the cars roll better. Regardless of whether you use metal or plastic, a good reaming with a truck tuner will improve any plastic truck. I have not experienced any better running with metal versus plastic axles myself, but I have read that metal axles are better. I have also not noticed any deformation of plastic axles.
I use either Kadee or Intermountain metal wheels bought in bulk packs. I like the Athearn ones that come on their products. I have not purchased any Jaybee wheels, but I understand that they are comparable to Kadee or Intermountain. Walther's Proto are OK, but I don't like their extra shiny appearance, Kadee and Intermountain are "blackened. My favorites are no longer made, and they are the original P2K wheels from the early 2000's. I believe that there are a few more manufacturer's but I have no experience with them and cannot comment.
Axle lengths vary from one manufacturer to another. Kadees are 1.015" in length, Intermountain are slightly smaller but I cannot recall the exact length, but I think that it is 1.010". Jaybees come in varying lengths starting as low as .95" and you would need to know what size to purchase. I'll try to remember to measure some of each when I visit the train shed this afternoon and report back.

EDIT based on Chris's comments. The Kadee plastic axles are not blunt ends in my experience, so friction is not an issue for me. Note too, that there is only a very tiny amount of surface friction between axle ends and trucks, the axle ends do not fill the cavities so the only contact point is the top of the axle point and the top center of the truck cavity. Unless of course the axles are too long for the trucks.
 
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I have steel or metal and plastic wheels. I have seen little sparks while running some of my metal wheel freight. I think it is arcing. I have never seen this with my plastic wheels, they are non conductive.

I have old style metal sprung trucks as well.

Most of my wheels and trucks are plastic. If they look dirty, I simply replace them, they are not expensive. I phurchase plastic wheels and trucks from tichy, in bulk. I model pre war and use Bettendorf and arch bar type trucks.

Metal do seem to roll easier, However my locomotives do not have problems pulling any of my freight cars.

I do not have plans to convert to all metal.

Dave LASM
 






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