starting over

[Va Cavalier]

I had HO guage trains when I was a kid. I'm 60 now with grandkids. I have a 10' X 16' shed in my backyard, and I want to build an HO scale layout in it. I'm starting from scratch. I purchased Bachman's N&W Cavalier train. I think I'll toss the EZ track and use Atlas code 100 with a cork roadbed. I could use suggestions about my track choice, buying rolling stock, and anything else anyone has to offer.

 

[D&J RailRoad]

You might consider an around the wall layout rather than the table layout/pingpong table that you left off from back in the 50s. You can get broader curves on it, more sidings, more industry, easy scenery, easier access to the whole thing, isolated layout points , i.e. towns, easier access to the underside of the layout, multi-level option, solid benchwork and longer running distance for the train.

 

[sd24b]

I had HO guage trains when I was a kid. I'm 60 now with grandkids. I have a 10' X 16' shed in my backyard, and I want to build an HO scale layout in it. I'm starting from scratch. I purchased Bachman's N&W Cavalier train. I think I'll toss the EZ track and use Atlas code 100 with a cork roadbed. I could use suggestions about my track choice, buying rolling stock, and anything else anyone has to offer.

I would recommend nickel silver flex track. I like Shinohara/Walthers and Micro Engineering switches. I prefer ME's flex track when I can get it. It is not as springy as Atlas when laying out curve. Atlas is a good choice, almost everyone carries it. Avoid brass rail at all costs. Welcome back and good luck phil

 

[bnsf971]

Here's a track plan that would fit in your shed:http://www.layoutvision.com/id56.html
I'd look closely at the around the walls layout, as it would use more of the space in your shed, and be a lot more interesting to run. Probably the J you already have would be the largest engine on that layout, but there are many smaller steam and diesel engines that would work well. If you care about era, the smaller cars and engines of the late steam era also would work to the advantage of a smaller layout, since they don't take up as much real estate.

 

[Selector]

Try to recoup your costs for the EZ-Track by tossing it onto eBay. You may only get $15 for all of it, but it's a start toward a nicer car.

Atlas Code 83 or the same from Peco and Micro Engineering would be good choices. Same for Walthers/Shinohara track elements.

Try to use only #5 or #6 turnouts if you can. The Peco Streamline Code 83 inuslated frog turnouts will last you a long time, and they will work well on this layout and on future layouts where you decide to have more generous curves for better speed oprations and better looks. My sharpest turnouts are the Peco Code 83 #6's, which I use exclusively in my yard. Out on the mains I have nothing less than 30" curves, with many in the 45-55" range. Out there, I use #7.5 and #8 Walthers/Shinohara Code 83 DCC-friendly curves turnouts or my own #8's using the Fast Tracks method.

This image shows a Broadway Limited Imports Norfolk & Western Ry. J Class (like yours) running hot and hard through a W/S curved #8.

 

[galaxy]

Hi and welcome back!
I am nto as old nor do I have grandchildren, but I got back into the hobby about 5.5-6 years ago. I had O-O/27 as a kid/teen and N scale as a teen.

This time I wanted HO. I always wanted HO.

First Atlas code 83 track that is Nickel Silver is good track and the most common and cheaper, though some will swear by it's more expensive cousins.
Just be sure not to get any steel track! They may look the same, but performance is hardly the same!!!

One thing you have to consider that didn't exist a long time ago is do you want standard DC operation of the New DCC {Digital Command COntrol} operation? DC controls the electrical current to the track blocks to control the engines, while the DCC system sends digital computer packets to the individual locomotive to control just IT on the tracks instead. WHen I first jumped back in I went DC as I knew it, then I discovered DCC and decided to switch to it for fewer wiring hassels, little/few/no blocks needed {at least not for my small layout} and I could get away with just connecting 2 wires to my small layout!!! and COntrol up to 3 locos with one controller!!! I liked that and promptly ordered the Bachmann EZ COmmand DCC controller and some Bachmann DCC OnBorad Locos to go with it.{now the Bachmann EZ C is a limited unit, but there are other unitsa vailable like Digitrax Xtra and NCE Powercab} I haven't looked back except to add a few feeder wires to the original 2 to be sure of signal continuity. IN my defense, I have no shorting spots like reverse loops or wyes, so 2 wires for it can work. SOmething to think about.
Here is a tutorial if you will to help explain:
http://www.tonystrains.com/tonystips.htm


You have quite a sizeable shed to set up shop in. One thing to consider...is it insulated? finished off? *electrically wired well* to handle electrical demands of a layout?{train power, lights, A/C unit. Lights for layout, etc} is it climate controlled so YOU will be as comfortable as the trains? {don't want buckling track due to excessive heat} Is it in great shape or in need of repairs? new roof? Better windows? More windows for ventilation or Window A/Cs? How about a natural gas or propane wall heater set on low to keep temperate during winter? How about dust and dirt? does it attract a lot? Will the door keep the wife at bay whilest you work???!!!

Just food for thought,

Welcome again and have a great time in the hobby!

 

[Jon NFL]

And another "welcome back". I, too, took a 30+ year break (kids and careers) and got back into it when I heard a DCC steam loco!!!
The point made about finishing the shed first is important. I still haven't finished the mudding and painting electrical could use a little more attention

on:
Layout - how many people do you invision operating your layout?
Trackplan - less seems to be more - many of the track plan books are by track manufacturers.
Backdrop - before scenery - its a lot easier (I would guess :] )
Table work - 1 x 4 frame with some areas tabled with 1/4" plywood - others open for build up or down. Consider drilling buss and other wiring holes before topping with deck.
Deck height - consider stretch above and below - how will you get to it. A mechanics creeper works well under mine.
Track - dido on n/s - I wish I had gone code 83 instead of 100. More realistic. Weather before laying, much easier.
Switches - consider hand laying using FastTracks - buy the jigs and when finished, sell on eBay. Another "wish I had"

My layout is in a 10 x 16 shed with A/C and portable heater. The first image in my brag page (follow link) shows the track plan. I'll also put in a plug for NMRA - consider joining - even if you don't, utilize the website - NMRA.ORG
Enjoy!!!!

Crandell - your pix and layout are always inspiring to me. ;o)

 

[jeffrey-wimberly]

Try to keep your track plan simple but engaging. There's nothing worse than having tracks so densely packed that you have to put in structures with a shoehorn. Eyes like seeing trains doing their thing but eyes also lake seeing structures, scenery and scenes that make it appear something is happening. Be careful in placing figures also. There's no need for a crowd when a few well placed figures will sell the scene. The same with vehicles. A few can go a long way toward making the scene believable but too many will make it look over crowded. Plant those structures. If your target audience can see a gap under a structure where there shouldn't be a gap an alarm goes off in their head that says NOT REAL! From then on the criticism machine is running wide open and their eyes are prying into every nook and cranny trying to find more gaffs. You might not be able to see these gaffs by simply looking. Take photos from every angle and scrutinize them closely then scrutinize them again. Chances are you'll find something that leaps out at you that you didn't see before. It happens to me all the time and I've been a model railroader for 45+ years.

 

[Va Cavalier]

Thanks for all the great suggestions. I've been visiting local hobby shops and I'm going to a 2 day Greenberg show in Richmond next month. I guess I should postpone retirement for a while...this hobby isn't cheap! I'm planning to start building framework and then laying track soon.

 

[fire28]

I'm curious which railroad are you going to model?

 

[Va Cavalier]

The N&W. I'm buying the Burlington engine only because it's like one I rode on when I was a kid. I lived in a little town on the Mississippi River in Missouri. There was a quarry 6 miles down the line. A couple of times a week the "gravel train" made a run between the quarry and the town I lived in. A friend's father new the engineer and we got to ride in the engine once. When I saw the photo of the model that you have, it brought back memories.

 

[Y3a]

BEFORE YOU START.....

Make sure your shed is heated, and the roof doesn't leak, and you have air conditioning.
I know from experience. My dad built a shed railroad. As soon as it got hot outside, the homosote underboard swelled up as it absorbed humidity. The rails expanded and messed up the trackwork. Expansion and contraction of the rails caused loose connections.