Starting a New Layout--Some Questions

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Hello,

Just an update...

I ordered and received two of the Walthers 933-3012 Double Track Truss Bridges today. I built one of them in about 2 1/2 hours. Nice bridge. Anyhow, I am happy to report that I was able to roll 3 makes of double stack intermodal trains thru the bridge with Code 83 HO track. There's not much room to spare, maybe 1/8", but itll work. I believe the key (and where some people had problems running this type equipment with this bridge) is they installed roadbed with the track. That is enough not to allow them through.

As an aside, this bridge was pretty straightforward to build and looks great. Nice rivet detail. The directions could be better, and its not for a beginner, but if one goes carefully, itll turn out good. Also, I had no problems at all with the Bowing I heard some people gripe about with this kit.

Now, just got to find the time to build the other one. And the layout...:eek:

Take Care,

Brad
 
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If you are going to the extent of a bus wire, you might as well do it up right and solder your connections.

Very true and excellent advise. What a lot of people don't know/realize is what they are talking about is actually called a Scotch-Lok; when you squeeze these onto the wire, whether it's solid core or stranded, is the connector inside actually cuts the solid core or the strands in stranded wire; and in some cases upto 50% of the solid core or strands are actually cut and now NOT conducting electricity which may cause a hot joint if a load is put on it.

Save yourself a headache and solder the joints. Any decent automotive mechanic will use a solder joint and heat shrink tubing/tape to cover the joint rather than a Scotch-lok.
 


Ok, so I was wrong. How do you go about insulating the buds/feeder connection. Not trying to hijacked, seems relevant to the thread.
 
Spent the last few days tearing down my layout and cleaning out the room it was in. Put every locomotive and piece of rolling stock back in its original box and packed away. Those that dont have boxes were put in storage boxes with packing peanuts. Took down my wooden display/storage shelf and shortened it for the new layout room. Sure looks lonely in that room now.

Now I just got to get the BR furniture out of there and into the old room...but wait the wifee wants to put hardwood were the layout was...oh boy there goes the layout budget. Prob in March Ill be able to start in on benchwork.
 
I was able to get the first of four tables completed. I modified my plan slightly to make the 5 ft looping section in the middle octagonal shaped in order to maximize room.

Im using cleats on one side of the wall to attach the tables to it as an anchor point. I am also using the cleats on oneside of the wall to work around a knee wall door. With the space the cleats provide, I will be able to remove the door from its hinges to gain access to that area, should it be necessary. One of the walls was way out of plumb by like 1 1/2". You can see that in the 2nd picture (note the shims). Crazy. The cleats near the window allow me to clear the window and not interfere with the blind. The opposite sides of the tables will be supported by legs.

Here are some pictures.

Brad
 
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Here I flipped the first table upside down and bolted the legs on with lag bolts. Ill put on some 1x2 cross-bracing today. Then Ill just need to turn it over, move stuff out of the way and mount it to the area in front of the window. I also installed leveler feet. Ill put in a new light and take down old ceiling fan and put up a new set of blinds.

Then it'll be on to tables 2 thru 4.

Brad
 
BTW, here's what the whole layout plan looks like. Only thing Ive really changed is the center table is Octagonal to maximize walkaround space. (Yes, I know its alot of track, but I like mainline running).

Brad
 
Brad-
That framework for your layout looks great. The leveling feet are a good idea too.

That is certainly a lot of track you have there!!!
SC
 


Very true and excellent advise. What a lot of people don't know/realize is what they are talking about is actually called a Scotch-Lok; when you squeeze these onto the wire, whether it's solid core or stranded, is the connector inside actually cuts the solid core or the strands in stranded wire; and in some cases upto 50% of the solid core or strands are actually cut and now NOT conducting electricity which may cause a hot joint if a load is put on it.

Save yourself a headache and solder the joints. Any decent automotive mechanic will use a solder joint and heat shrink tubing/tape to cover the joint rather than a Scotch-lok.

The cutting into the wire(s) is part of the idea behind the scotch-lock operation. This insures conductivity, and also why they come in varying sizes so you don't use too small a lock on too large a wire and actually cut it apart. They are also not intended for use with stranded wire. If you are using stranded wire, the better idea other than soldering would be crimped on spade connectors and screw terminals.

If you have and end of a wire "NOT conducting", then you can not have a load on that end of the wire. Therefore, no "hot joint". You simply have a live wire terminated in an insulated joint, it's basically like putting a wire nut on the end of a live wire, it won't get "hot".
If you do have conductivity, then the scotch lock would have to be providing a huge resistance in order for it to become a hot joint. At which point, it's easier to pull apart a scotch lock than it is to try and redo a solder joint that's bad.

And, using scotch locks in automotive environments is not the same as under a layout. The layout doesn't see the environment, the vibration, the contamination, the heat etc that a car will. It's an apples to oranges comparison.


You say save the headache and solder. Implying that a solder joint done correctly will yield no problems, correct? Well, install a scotch lock correctly and the chance of issues is just as small as soldering. And you don't have to strip wire. And you don't have to use heat. And you don't have to worry about where the solder spatter is going to end up on you as you work over head. And you don't have to de-solder when you make a mistake. And........

Done correctly either way will yield the same reliable results. You just don't have to do as much work with one of them ;)
 
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Finished the Tables

Benchwork is done! Now on to the right of way...

Next up is plywood (prob going to use 3/4" ply bc of all the elevation changes and my open grid is 24" on center supports), some sweepsticks, and riser construction.
 
Looking really good, I like how you've constructed your benchwork. Well done.

Now did I miss something? What is the tiny door on the right?
 
Looking really good, I like how you've constructed your benchwork. Well done.

Now did I miss something? What is the tiny door on the right?

That's the door to my real Man Cave...:D The Grotto is just behind there...:D

No, that's where my hotwater heater is so I had to leave access to that somewhat open. My house is 15 years old, so I went ahead and put in a new hot water heater before putting in the table over the door. I have it laid out so that if there is an issue with it (leak, pilot light goes out, etc), I can still access that area by taking the door off the hinges and sliding it out of there.
 
That's the door to my real Man Cave...:D The Grotto is just behind there...:D

No, that's where my hotwater heater is so I had to leave access to that somewhat open. My house is 15 years old, so I went ahead and put in a new hot water heater before putting in the table over the door. I have it laid out so that if there is an issue with it (leak, pilot light goes out, etc), I can still access that area by taking the door off the hinges and sliding it out of there.

Aha, I thought you might be a "little person".

Looking forward to seeing the trackwork. Are you planning on using the extruded (pink) foam over the plywood?
 
Aha, I thought you might be a "little person".

Looking forward to seeing the trackwork. Are you planning on using the extruded (pink) foam over the plywood?

Hahaha...that's the only time in my life someone has ever thought I was short...Im 6'5"...could only happen on the internet.

No, Im not planning on using foam. Going with cookie cutter with risers and cleats.
 


Got the Plywood on...

Got the plywood put on the benchwork the last couple of days. Went with 3/4" ply. I went with this thickness bc of all the inclines on the layout.

Still waiting on the Fast Tracks Sweepsticks to help translate the layout plan to the actual benchwork.

Brad
 




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