soldering track

[Necrosaro420]

So im confused, you solder the bottom of the rail or the sides?

 

[eTraxx]

MRR Soldering Basics .. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMr2lhW1fUI&feature=player_embedded

Solder Flex Track .. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bK7WYxKbTUw
(needs to watch the prior video on cleaning his soldering iron!)

 

[P&W]

Ray, that sounds cool (adding solder to the iron) but I have not been able have success with that technique. Many times the solder sticks to the iron tip instead of the track. I find such especially when using a fine solder tip for doing hardwiring in my locomotives.

I do a good bit of welding and soldering; not much brazing. Anyway, I've had good luck soldering like this. I put the flux on first and then heat it so the flux flows into the joint. Then I get a little dab of solder on the tip of the iron and put it at the joint and heat it. The flux will pull the solder right in. It should end up shiny. If not, it is a weak bond; just heat it again. Once it cools it should be shiny. Just be sure to clean the excess flux off of the metal when you're finished. It's pretty slick for MRR.

Also, keep in mind that there can be spots on the tip of the iron that are hotter than others. On one iron I have there is one spot that gets good and hot, but the rest of the tip won't make a good bond.

 

[RW&C]

Another thing to keep in mind is not to melt the plastic ties. You can attach alligator clips or spring clamps or some other metal object to the rails just outside of the solder joint to dissipate the heat before it gets to the plastic. If you've got a good iron and the proper skills you don't really need to but if you're a noob like me it's helpful.

 

[tankist]

Necrosaro420, you asked that in your original thread. think - how in the world are you going to solder from the underside if the pre-curved pieces of flex are laying flat and tacked to roadbed roadbed???

I put the flux on first and then heat it so the flux flows into the joint. Then I get a little dab of solder on the tip of the iron and put it at the joint and heat it.

in any soldering job first you supposed to heat the work. otherwise hot solder is going to cool touching non preheated wok, not good. if done right, flux is almost not needed as there is enough of it in the rosin core solder.

 

[kenw]

actually to correct a common misconception: acid core is fine. The problems come when you don't clean it well as it continues to work. On soldered track, cleaning it good enough to remove the acid flux is practically impossible so you don't often use it. But I've used it for years and nothing works better to enable you to solder really grungy green brass than acid flux. but you had better be able to clean it.....

Most electronics are made using acid flux, btw. But then they are easy to clean very very well. Acid flux cleans up and is neutralized by plain ol' water.

Instead of acid flux, use a brass wire brush to clean the rail before using rosin flux. (it is simple if you have a Dremel) It will remove the grosser of the contaminants. On shiny track, rosin flux should work more than fine.

 

[cncproadwarrior]

The best instructional videos I have seen on soldering are on the Fast Tracks site: http://www.handlaidtrack.com/videos.php