Running Bear's May 2026 Coffee Shop

[chadbag]

That's a new generic keyboard. A new genuine replacement is probably around $100, I didn't bother checking, for obvious reasons. I can get used keyboards for less, and have more problems than I have now.
A standard, wired, 102 key keyboard is cheap, and will technically work, but the computer doesn't like them, and complains about it. Plus, having to remember what the special keys for the computer are without the special markings.

I’ve used the Apple wired full key keyboard on all my Mac’s including my 2017 iMac and my current m4 pro max mini. And some older MacBook Pro.

Works great and no worry about batteries or anything. And you get the full keyboard.

Since I think they were discontinued I’m not sure how easy to find and how inexpensive they are but they work great.

 

[RhB Michael]

Usually, those appliances that produce heat like hair dryers, coffee makers and such have a thermistor. It will reset after an overheat. But I guess if it gets hot enough, fast enough it could blow it.

 

[santafewillie]

So this was it, the final kid to finish college til the grandkids start (not counting post graduate work). We've done our jobs as parents. Time for the last one to spread his wings and fly. Of course they all know they can fly back to the nest if necessary, but we hope it wont come to that.

Congratulations Karl. Great parenting. We basically did the same, put all three through college, including one with a Master's, and set them free. None have been back, none have been in jail and they're all doing better than me at the same point in life!

 

[bnsf971]

I’ve used the Apple wired full key keyboard on all my Mac’s including my 2017 iMac and my current m4 pro max mini. And some older MacBook Pro.

Works great and no worry about batteries or anything. And you get the full keyboard.

Since I think they were discontinued I’m not sure how easy to find and how inexpensive they are but they work great.

I had used the wired version so much I wore out the key caps. I have two of the "new, improved" wireless models, both of which now have keys that don't register. This is for my 2017 iMac.

 

[bnsf971]

I have returned from purchasing a small N scale collection consisting of a pair of Intermountain FT A/B sets, a Kato E8A, a couple of boxes of Unitrack, some odds and ends, and a Bachmann train set power pack. This is all the guy acquired before he realized what it would take to build and equip any kind of layout. He decided to cut his losses before he tried to get more stuff that he wouldn't be able to use. Most everything is unused, though he somehow managed to A- lose most of the boxes for the Unitrack, and B- broke one end of a Kato Truss bridge.
The engines are currently tooling around the layout breaking in, and I need to gather up my car-washing stuff, since my car is covered in dead bugs as a result of the trip.

 

[troyphoto]

In case you're wondering about Ken Patterson post fire and what his layout is morphing into, he's got a less than 45 minute video discussing his plans:

Which has me thinking... this is the last chance I have to decide between HO and N scale.

HO: Less "space" due to being ~twice the size of N scale. But the people and the details are bigger. In gaming terms, 18mm-20mm people are about right for an HO layout.

The cons, smaller trains on HO
The N-scale stuff I have, 4 new Atlas engines, about 20-30 cars of various types, 2 boxes of Peco Flextrack, numerous turnouts, and a couple boxes of cork roadbed would have to be sold off, and money redirected to getting replacements.

I'm very tempted to do the switch to HO, but I sigh at the thought of trying to sell off the Nscale stuff. I don't mind the buying new, but I don't want to get beat up sell off New in Box stuff.

Wednesday, when I'm putting the Troy-Cave back to gether, I need to pick one and stick with it. I'm very close to laying track for N-scale. I have a couple sections of benchwork that would need to be enlarged to hit the minimum 18 to 22 inch radius curves.

Decisions, Decisions.

 

[migalyto]

I'm very tempted to do the switch to HO, but I sigh at the thought of trying to sell off the Nscale stuff. I don't mind the buying new, but I don't want to get beat up sell off New in Box stuff.

I hear ya! I was in the same situation 9 years ago when I had 40+ locomotives and 300+ pieces of rolling stock in N scale and wanted to do the switch. As far as the loss I think I did fairly well. I am a modern present day modeler so everything sold very well and had very few selling problem using EBay. I would end all my auctions on Sunday night so at work I could weigh, package and print the label on lunch. I passed 2 post offices on the way home so it really wasn't more than a couple minute delay unless the line was long. I would say after fees and getting less than I paid (some items more) since they were limited runs and out of production I recouped about 70-75% of my investment back.

It was a hard choice and I struggled with it for almost a year till I realized Ho scale would make my MRR experience more enjoyable and there were more offerings in my era. The ultimate thing that made my mind up was the fact I had so many N scale locomotives that had to be converted to DCC that the cost would of been huge and taken a long time since I hate the electrical side of this hobby even though its necessary.

Guess it all boils down to what you want or are willing to do?

Good luck in your decision!

 

[chadbag]

I had used the wired version so much I wore out the key caps. I have two of the "new, improved" wireless models, both of which now have keys that don't register. This is for my 2017 iMac.

My current one has several key caps you can’t read well and the A key is actually worn down into the plastic like a divot. Good thing I know where the letters are.

 

[troyphoto]

I hear ya! I was in the same situation 9 years ago when I had 40+ locomotives and 300+ pieces of rolling stock in N scale and wanted to do the switch. As far as the loss I think I did fairly well. I am a modern present day modeler so everything sold very well and had very few selling problem using EBay. I would end all my auctions on Sunday night so at work I could weigh, package and print the label on lunch. I passed 2 post offices on the way home so it really wasn't more than a couple minute delay unless the line was long. I would say after fees and getting less than I paid (some items more) since they were limited runs and out of production I recouped about 70-75% of my investment back.

It was a hard choice and I struggled with it for almost a year till I realized Ho scale would make my MRR experience more enjoyable and there were more offerings in my era. The ultimate thing that made my mind up was the fact I had so many N scale locomotives that had to be converted to DCC that the cost would of been huge and taken a long time since I hate the electrical side of this hobby even though its necessary.

Guess it all boils down to what you want or are willing to do?

Good luck in your decision!

I just keep coming back to the size of the figures. As a gamer, painting figures is important to complete the scene.

and the difference between N-scale (10mm tall) and HO (20mm tall) is a huge difference in what I can do with 3d printing figures and scenery bits, as well as painting and detailing them.

 

[chadbag]

@troyphoto haven’t we had this decision and discussion multiple times already ?

For me it’s N all the way. I like to have longer trains and be able to have more scenery and both a loop for continuous running as well as lines that are more point to point (start, hit multiple stations, end — like many commuter lines)

In fact two loops. One to run high speed trains around the outside and another inside of a city to represent a city loop like in Osaka (Osaka Loop Line) or Tokyo (Yamanote line).

My interests are mainly Japan and Germany/Central European railroads. Japan is an N scale country. They have H0 but it’s not anywhere near as available and is expensive. Germany is H0 but has a large N offering.

Makes it easy for me to decide.

Even in N a 16 car Shinkansen or a 11/12 car ICE is long.

If Z weren’t so expensive and if it were easier to add decoders to and there was the wealth of trains available I could be interested in Z. Easier to make more realistic trains and have more scenery. (Not modeling 1-2 mile long intermodal U.S. European and Japanese train lengths are less).

 

[bnsf971]

I just keep coming back to the size of the figures. As a gamer, painting figures is important to complete the scene.

and the difference between N-scale (10mm tall) and HO (20mm tall) is a huge difference in what I can do with 3d printing figures and scenery bits, as well as painting and detailing them.

The perceptual detail is much lower in N scale. You can paint the front of a head in flesh tones of your choice, add a couple of dots for eyes, some hair-colored paint on the back of the head, and apply some coloring for shirt and pants, and nobody will be able to see much more than that without standing a couple of inches away with a magnifying glass. HO requires you to actually paint those details, since they are visible.

 

[Snowman]

Is it basically the same track plan, Troy, in either scale? Or regardless of scale?

22" radius curves, for example, no matter which scale you choose?

 

[migalyto]

For me it’s N all the way. I like to have longer trains and be able to have more scenery and both a loop for continuous running as well as lines that are more point to point (start, hit multiple stations, end — like many commuter lines)

You bring up a great point with space that I didn't hit on. For me that wasn't even a consideration since I have the whole basement at my disposal so I have a rather large layout spanning 3/4 of that area with the ability to have 36" minimum curves. But yes scenery to space considerations are an important point.

 

[troyphoto]

The perceptual detail is much lower in N scale. You can paint the front of a head in flesh tones of your choice, add a couple of dots for eyes, some hair-colored paint on the back of the head, and apply some coloring for shirt and pants, and nobody will be able to see much more than that without standing a couple of inches away with a magnifying glass. HO requires you to actually paint those details, since they are visible.

I paint 28mm gaming figures... I'm actually not bad at doing the details on figures.

My American Civil War figs that I want to paint some this summer, are in the 18mm to 20mm HO range. I've already done a bunch of them. Base colors, add a wash, then pick out the details. Eyes are optional at that scale if the figures have good molded details.

 

[troyphoto]

@troyphoto haven’t we had this decision and discussion multiple times already ?

For me it’s N all the way. I like to have longer trains and be able to have more scenery and both a loop for continuous running as well as lines that are more point to point (start, hit multiple stations, end — like many commuter lines)

In fact two loops. One to run high speed trains around the outside and another inside of a city to represent a city loop like in Osaka (Osaka Loop Line) or Tokyo (Yamanote line).

My interests are mainly Japan and Germany/Central European railroads. Japan is an N scale country. They have H0 but it’s not anywhere near as available and is expensive. Germany is H0 but has a large N offering.

Makes it easy for me to decide.

Even in N a 16 car Shinkansen or a 11/12 car ICE is long.

If Z weren’t so expensive and if it were easier to add decoders to and there was the wealth of trains available I could be interested in Z. Easier to make more realistic trains and have more scenery. (Not modeling 1-2 mile long intermodal U.S. European and Japanese train lengths are less).

Yes, we have... and there's a reason I keep coming back to it. I'm learning my first choice might not be the best choice for me.

Going to the HO Club meeting, and picking up the HO Bachman 30-7 made me see the difference.

what I'm slowly realizing is that I want good scenes. Up til now, I thought I wanted a LOT of scenes. There is a difference.

And trying to print up 10mm figures for the layout has been challenging. It's possible, but it takes some time in the slicer software to get them small enough to fit the scale, but thick enough to print without arms snapping off.

 

[Snowman]

Yes, we have... and there's a reason I keep coming back to it. I'm learning my first choice might not be the best choice for me.

Going to the HO Club meeting, and picking up the HO Bachman 30-7 made me see the difference.

View attachment 265861

what I'm slowly realizing is that I want good scenes. Up til now, I thought I wanted a LOT of scenes. There is a difference.

And trying to print up 10mm figures for the layout has been challenging. It's possible, but it takes some time in the slicer software to get them small enough to fit the scale, but thick enough to print without arms snapping off.

On that last point: I haven't yet opened either carton (I have two Anycubic resin printers) let alone tried resin printing myself yet, but I do look in once in a while still...and I believe there are some new resins available in just the last year or two which incorporate flex-additives...and which are VERY tough and bendable compared to what was available just a couple of years back. Wanna say Anycubic offers one, and I think they are intended for the same (305nm?) wavelength light as most other common resins. If broken arms and legs are problem, you might look into those.

 

[Snowman]

Yeesh! Hope everyone has a better day than these four guys did!

 

[troyphoto]

On that last point: I haven't yet opened either carton (I have two Anycubic resin printers) let alone tried resin printing myself yet, but I do look in once and a while...and I believe there are some new resins available in just the last year or two which incorporate flex-additives...and are VERY tough and bendable compared to what was available just a couple of years back. Wanna say Anycubic offers one, and I think they are intended for the same (305nm?) wavelength light as most other common resins. If broken arms and legs are problem, you might look into those.

It's more of what will print and not break off with the supports. the figures arms are as small as the supports have the slicer add to the print to support it.

And I do mix Tenacious resin (the bendy kind) at 10% with my normal ABS-Like resin to make it more durable. But there is a trade off. The more flexible resins are not good for as tight of detail. At HO scale, they won't give you the lack of detail in one of those Chinese molded HO figures. But it is noticeable. I could up the mix ratio - perhaps 20% tenacious (or Anycubic's Tough resin) with the ABS like for the smaller scales. But I do want some detail even at N-scale

 

[Texas Hobo]

For me it’s N. I had entirely too much stuff in N and explaining why the change to the wife any why an engine that cost me $150 was going to be sold at $65 to $75.
I got a new mini camera today. It’s not as mini as the old one, so train rides don’t work when you get to a bridge. On the plus side it takes photos as well as video.

STAY SAFE
LATER

 

[bnsf971]

Yeesh! Hope everyone has a better day than these four guys did!

The news says 4 crew members ejected safely from the planes. They didn't say how many were on board.