Running Bear's August 2026 Coffee Shop

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You know... adding a 20x30 extension to the Barn would give you a train "barn" without the move.

Just saying...
Troy, nope! I have a 24” x 20’ give or take shelf above my work bench. I can switch cars. I can build scenes and move them to either friend’s layout I build them for. I’m not lacking an ability to run trains even though I have cutdown the Ops Sessions I’ll be attending. The desire to build my own layout has petered out! We’ll see but unless the daughter has a need to expand I will not be building any additions here.
 
While I was sitting in the waiting room at the hospital, I had to endure the tv showing Shmucks (fox) tv and I found out about the lettuce issue. Then they had to go and drag RFK's healthy agenda into it. What a bunch of f-ing turds. I am glad that I don't get innundated by this cr@p anymore. As soon as I was alone, I changed the channel to sports. And I'm not a sports tv watcher.
 


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Well, I thought I had overcooked it. Came out of the oven at 140F. Should have been paying more attention. Anyway, let it rest while I baked some egg plant medallions. After that was done, cranked the oven temp up to 450 and gave it a 3 minute hit. It rested for another 10 minutes, but when I cut it up, it was still pink inside and very tender. Taste is good too. Very different from the shio koji pork.
Kind of sounds like doing sous vide without sous vide. Ie a certain time at low temperature then a hot outside finish.
 
That is what is most important!

I've never even heard of that!

I’m so far behind, and so much has changed in the 20+ years since I last felt caught up.
All the manufacturers are going to lightweight oils in order to coax a small amount of gas mileage out to near their fleet standards requirements. Most are a 0W20 and some like the Japanese seem to have gone to a 0W16.

Once past the warranty put in weight in you want (that meets the additive package they spec).
 
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My above post didn't post, so I had to hit the button again! There you are. 🤬

Multitasking today. I laid some track on my diorama base this morning, then went downstairs to the paint booth and painted the RPO Bag, trucks and chassis flat black, and primer (MOW Cray on the car body. That is currently baking. For a brief instance (.08 seconds) I was tempted to leave the car in MOW Gray and be done! 🤣 I also ballasted the track on the diorama base. Not too bad for a day so far. Almost lunch time!
 


All the manufacturers are going to lightweight oils in order to coax a small amount of gas mileage out to near their fleet standards requirements. Most are a 0W20 and some like the Japanese seem to have gone to a 0W16.

Once past the warranty putative weight in you want (that meets the additive package they spec).
It’s getting 5w20 when that time is up.
It will be a while, since the time is 100,000 miles. 70k to go.
 
Good Afternoon All. It's only 92° out there right now.
Just returned from the cardiologist, looks like he expects me to live another six months because that's when he wants to see me again. Stopped at the mailbox and picked up our mail from Friday, Saturday and maybe today. Not sure when delivery is any more since our mail lady of over 30 years retired earlier this year. A surprise awaited me. A letter from my prescription drug provider with a check in it for $8.25! First of all, it was from a prescription from March 8 earlier this year. Second surprise is that they actually sent it to me! However, there were 4 pages of explanations and disclaimers along with it. Postage and all of those pages probably cost them more than the $8.25, but it is nice to know that they do check their own work.
 
Once past the warranty putative weight in you want (that meets the additive package they spec).
I wouldn’t run anything thicker than what the manufacturer calls for. These new engines aren’t using 0W‑20 and 0W‑16 just to chase EPA numbers, they’re built tight. The bearing clearances, the oil passages, the crank and rod journals… all of it is designed around thin oil that moves fast. You need that quick flow to build the oil wedge and keep the bearings floating. If you dump thicker oil in a modern engine, it can’t squeeze into those tight clearances, the flow drops, the wedge collapses, and you end up with wear you’ll never see until it’s too late.

The oil pump and the VVT system are built for low‑viscosity oil too, so going heavier can starve the top end and mess with cam phasers and timing chains. Stick with the viscosity and additive package the engine was engineered for; that’s where the protection is.

I was a mechanic, not an engineer. I haven’t torn down these newest 0W‑16/0W‑20 engines. But I’ve worked on enough motors over the years to know what happens if you ignore the clearances. These modern engines are built tighter than ever, and thicker oil just doesn’t belong in them.
 
Howdy folks from the Broiler known as North Central Arkansas. 96 right now heading for 101! Don't even want to know what the Index is saying. Nope.
Karl glad you are home, I understand how good that at home shower feels after the hospital. Enjoy.
Troy continuing to pray for you here.
Kuso, great news on the report, my wife has diverticulitis and I understand how you are feeling.
Last night cleaned up where I had created a disaster during sorting stuff for sale at the upcoming train show. Today I attacked the Corner TTrak module and got about half the remaining ground cover applied. It also let me see what areas will actually need some caulk to smooth edges for the rest of the ground cover.
 

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I wouldn’t run anything thicker than what the manufacturer calls for. These new engines aren’t using 0W‑20 and 0W‑16 just to chase EPA numbers, they’re built tight. The bearing clearances, the oil passages, the crank and rod journals… all of it is designed around thin oil that moves fast. You need that quick flow to build the oil wedge and keep the bearings floating. If you dump thicker oil in a modern engine, it can’t squeeze into those tight clearances, the flow drops, the wedge collapses, and you end up with wear you’ll never see until it’s too late.

The oil pump and the VVT system are built for low‑viscosity oil too, so going heavier can starve the top end and mess with cam phasers and timing chains. Stick with the viscosity and additive package the engine was engineered for; that’s where the protection is.

I was a mechanic, not an engineer. I haven’t torn down these newest 0W‑16/0W‑20 engines. But I’ve worked on enough motors over the years to know what happens if you ignore the clearances. These modern engines are built tighter than ever, and thicker oil just doesn’t belong in them.
Bingo! Also maintain the service intervals with religious fervor or you'll wind up with several hundred pounds of boat anchor!
 
I wouldn’t run anything thicker than what the manufacturer calls for. These new engines aren’t using 0W‑20 and 0W‑16 just to chase EPA numbers, they’re built tight. The bearing clearances, the oil passages, the crank and rod journals… all of it is designed around thin oil that moves fast. You need that quick flow to build the oil wedge and keep the bearings floating. If you dump thicker oil in a modern engine, it can’t squeeze into those tight clearances, the flow drops, the wedge collapses, and you end up with wear you’ll never see until it’s too late.

The oil pump and the VVT system are built for low‑viscosity oil too, so going heavier can starve the top end and mess with cam phasers and timing chains. Stick with the viscosity and additive package the engine was engineered for; that’s where the protection is.

I was a mechanic, not an engineer. I haven’t torn down these newest 0W‑16/0W‑20 engines. But I’ve worked on enough motors over the years to know what happens if you ignore the clearances. These modern engines are built tighter than ever, and thicker oil just doesn’t belong in them.

Hi Louis. I've done non technical research on this over the last several months. (Meaning I talked to a service manager at a German repair specialist, watched some YT videos and read some blogs).

My 2016 Audi and my 2019 VW both have the same basic 1.4 TSI turbo engine. Just the year is different so maybe minor changes. The 2016 called for 0W40, 0W30, 5W40 and the VW calls for 0W20 (VW 508/509 spec -- not the standard 0W20). I doubt they made changes to the engine that it requires the 0W20. The Audi engine is specced at 150hp despite being older while the VW is specced at 147hp. That comes down to the more aggressive timing on the Audi to be a bit more performance oriented.. But they're in the same ballpark. I've had a VW dealer tell me it was to chase the uttermost MPG rating to hit the fleet standards.

There are more accounts of premature engine wear on engines specced for the super light oils. And I've seen enough of the reputable YT oil experts (not random guys but guys who have been mechanics for decades, are oil engineers and test oil professionally etc) and they recommend, mostly, to not use that light of a weight. Plenty of examples of burned out pistons or whatever they were showing using the lighter weight.

I know some people are against mixing oil weights but the last one I did on the VW I did about 50-60% of the specced 0W20 VW 508/509 spec, and the rest the "older" 0W40 or 5W30 I had that is VW 502/505 IIRC. It's the VW spec oil I use in the Audi. I didn't research it but I assume the additives package is similar, being that older versions of the engine take the older spec and its VAG (VW Group). Big and stuck on stuff that works. Slow to make changes.

I'm willing to take the risk as I didn't like the images I saw of engines damaged by too light of oil.

I think it is Chevrolet that had an issue with a motor specced at 0W20. The fix was to move to 0W40 synthetic. Several other brands have major issues with light oil. Here is the Google AI issue when I asked about car manufacturers with light oil issues:

------
The Global "Double Standard" Controversy"

Automotive teardown communities frequently point out that many of these same global engines (from Subaru, Toyota, and Honda) explicitly permit thicker oils like 5W-30 or 10W-40 in their owner's manuals for European, Asian, or Australian markets. They only strictly mandate 0W-20 or 0W-16 in North America to comply with strict domestic fleet efficiency standards. [1, 2]
----

I'm not an expert and I didn't stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night
 
Good Afternoon All. It's only 92° out there right now.
Just returned from the cardiologist, looks like he expects me to live another six months because that's when he wants to see me again. Stopped at the mailbox and picked up our mail from Friday, Saturday and maybe today. Not sure when delivery is any more since our mail lady of over 30 years retired earlier this year. A surprise awaited me. A letter from my prescription drug provider with a check in it for $8.25! First of all, it was from a prescription from March 8 earlier this year. Second surprise is that they actually sent it to me! However, there were 4 pages of explanations and disclaimers along with it. Postage and all of those pages probably cost them more than the $8.25, but it is nice to know that they do check their own work.
I think all of us old farts are on that 6 month interval! I think it's a Medicare thing. Of course at this point, your check engine light comes on more often!
 


I wouldn’t run anything thicker than what the manufacturer calls for. These new engines aren’t using 0W‑20 and 0W‑16 just to chase EPA numbers, they’re built tight. The bearing clearances, the oil passages, the crank and rod journals… all of it is designed around thin oil that moves fast. You need that quick flow to build the oil wedge and keep the bearings floating. If you dump thicker oil in a modern engine, it can’t squeeze into those tight clearances, the flow drops, the wedge collapses, and you end up with wear you’ll never see until it’s too late.

The oil pump and the VVT system are built for low‑viscosity oil too, so going heavier can starve the top end and mess with cam phasers and timing chains. Stick with the viscosity and additive package the engine was engineered for; that’s where the protection is.

I was a mechanic, not an engineer. I haven’t torn down these newest 0W‑16/0W‑20 engines. But I’ve worked on enough motors over the years to know what happens if you ignore the clearances. These modern engines are built tighter than ever, and thicker oil just doesn’t belong in them.
I'm going to disagree with you on this one. I was in the R&D part of the auto industry, and my son was the parts manager of his local Toyota dealer until a couple of months ago. first, identical engines for other markets in Europe and Asia use heavier oil than here, and a lot of those countries are colder than most of the US. also, the engines that now spec 0W16 oil are the exact same engines that spec'ed 5w20 until a couple of years ago. Same engines, same tolerances, same internal engine part numbers, same block casting numbers.
Toyota is having massive engine problems with many of their current vehicle lines, where the engines destroy themselves internally. EPA and CARB requirements are forcing these engines to work in conditions that are destroying them, and those agencies simply shrug and let the consumer shoulder the cost of early engine replacement.
If all it is, is a little better fuel economy, I'll happily settle for 38 mpg instead of 40.
 
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