Road bed for hand laid track

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UPBigBoy

UPBigBoy

J&A Paint Shops
What are people using as a road bed for hand laid code 70 track? I had a layout ( 14X18 ) about 35 years ago but can't remember what I used (Old age creeping in) and am getting back into the hobby so I need something that is going to hold the track spikes.

Thanks for your help/suggestions.

Jim
 
I've always loved cork. I've used it in HO and N scale, as well as foam...and cork won. Hard. I've heard good things about homasote, but it's damned expensive.
 
TrainboyH16-44 said:
I've always loved cork. I've used it in HO and N scale, as well as foam...and cork won. Hard. I've heard good things about homasote, but it's damned expensive.
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The last time when we tried cork the spikes wouldn't hold the rails very well unless there is a different type of cork to use, if I remember correctly we purchased the cork from Rona (Revelstoke) at the time. Remember we're talking hand laid rails.
 


Cork from Rona (gahh, I miss when it was Revy) is much less dense than the cork usually used for roadbed, so no, it won't hold spikes. I can't remember what we used with the HO layout, but in N I'm using Midwest cork strips designed to be roadbed, and they hold spikes quite well. It's about the same as whatever I used for HO. I'm using cork from Rona for sidings, but I'm gluing, not spiking, so it works.
 
Guys,Food for thought.

As I mention I have used Woodland Scenics 12"x24" "Super bed" with great results.

I have used cork for years but,wanted to go one step better and have all my track on the same level..Like this:

IM000096.jpg



I had one other choice spike the track directly to the board..:eek:

I decided to try foam..


It was a learning curve for me and it was more simpler to use then I thought seeing the two main things is glue the foam in place weigh with books etc and let dry 24 hours then I simply glued the track in place using Elmers White glue weigh with books and let it dry 24 hours.

As you can see in this view you can see I use screws to install CI ground throws.

IM000084.jpg



I will use foam on my Slate Creek ISL for the same reason as I stated.

BTW..When I tore this layout out I saved all the switches and track..I soak with water to loosen the white glue and no the water did not damage the track.
 
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I have been wondering how toglue track to the foam roadbed....is the white glue holding it OK for ya?? I was going to go that route, but havnt done anything yet...
 
I'm a little confused. How do you use glue if you're hand-laying? Doesn't hand-laying pretty much require spiking?
 
UPBigBoy said:
What are people using as a road bed for hand laid code 70 track? I had a layout ( 14X18 ) about 35 years ago but can't remember what I used (Old age creeping in) and am getting back into the hobby so I need something that is going to hold the track spikes.

Thanks for your help/suggestions.

Jim
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I used to use cedar slats and cover them with brown paper soaked with diluted white glue. The cedar takes the spikes nicely. Makes a sold track after being ballasted and sealed; hard to tear apart.
Now I use this roadbed; damn good stuff and nice to work with.
http://www.calroadbed.com/
 
In the past Homasote was the "thing" to use. But in many areas its unavailable, esp down here in the south.

I cut my own roadbed, so I needed something that was easy to handle, easily sanded, and would hold the spikes well. What I have started using, after it was used on our club's original layout, is what is called insulated sheathing. Its available 2 ways. One is with a thin coat of tar applied to one side. The other option is nothing applied to any side.

I cut it into 2" wide strips, and then split it down the middle so I get two 1/4" high strips. Then I cut these into 1" wide strips, with a bevel on one side. The strips are somewhat flexible but I still have to "slot" the roadbed so it will be even more flexible. If using Homasote, it would have to be handled the same or similar way. It's glued down in place onto the subroadbed, with hot glue, or white or yellow glue, then after its dried, its lightly sanded to remove any bumps, and the "ridge" from cutting it when its joined to the other piece.

Yes there is a lot of work involved, but the sheets are only $6.00 for a 4x8' piece. And it only takes about 2 hours of work on a table saw to turn out over 100' of roadbed. It holds the spikes very, very, well and along with the slightly thicker ties I use, holds the rails even better than when I used Homasote.

As to the tarred side, as the plain sheathing is hard to find, The tarred side is always on the bottom.
 
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Cjcrescent said:
I"CLIP"
I cut my own roadbed, so I needed something that was easy to handle, easily sanded, and would hold the spikes well. What I have started using, after it was used on our club's original layout, is what is called insulated sheathing. Its available 2 ways. One is with a thin coat of tar applied to one side. The other option is nothing applied to any side.

"CLIP"

but the sheets are only $6.00 for a 4x8' piece. And it only takes about 2 hours of work on a table saw to turn out over 100' of roadbed. It holds the spikes very, very, well and along with the slightly thicker ties I use, holds the rails even better than when I used Homasote.

As to the tarred side, as the plain sheathing is hard to find, The tarred side is always on the bottom.
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Any idea who carries this in Canada or the manufacturer? Sounds like something I would like to look at.

Thanks

Jim
 


They don't sell homosote in New mexico and TrainsWest started stocking it at seriously high prices. I had cut a bunch of sheets into 2x8 ft and I loaded that along with 180,000 lbs of other stuff into the 53 ft trailers I leased to move East. When I got here, Home depot had it for $18.00 a sheet.. It really holds nails nicely but it has to be available. In Medicine Hat, I have doubts. Cork works quite well in my opinion.
 
UPBigBoy said:
Any idea who carries this in Canada or the manufacturer? Sounds like something I would like to look at.

Thanks

Jim
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I would check any of the big box home supply stores. Down here its used along with plywood/chipboard for enclosing a house, after framing. This material goes over the plywood/chipboard. Not knowing the building codes in Canada, and given the really low temps that can occur up there, this material may not be even sold there. Even though its called "insulated" sheathing, it's R value is probably about 4.
 
I agree with Carey. It is really worthless as an insulator, raises dust if you abrade it etc. I have no idea about it's flame rating which is probably bad but it's great for train layouts.
 
I have used that in my recent project and it is an exceptionally easy product to work with for roadbed, but unfortunately it wont hold spikes good at all...to spongy...so I have just been glueing my track down
 
Cjcrescent said:
I would check any of the big box home supply stores. Down here its used along with plywood/chipboard for enclosing a house, after framing. This material goes over the plywood/chipboard. Not knowing the building codes in Canada, and given the really low temps that can occur up there, this material may not be even sold there. Even though its called "insulated" sheathing, it's R value is probably about 4.
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Homosote is a standard stock item in Menards stores here in Iowa. It comes 1/2" sheets in sizes 2'X4', 4'X4', and 4'X8'. A lot of the small sizes could fit in a trunk or back seat if you were already making a road trip this direction.

I'd ask about it at the Contractor Desk in a big box store if you haven't done that already. Asking at Customer Service is far less effective in my opinion because the Contractor Desk can order tons of stuff that Customer Service is unaware of.
 
Homasote is also available in plenty here in Wisconsin. Not terribly expensive either.

That Woodland Scenics roadbed is strictly for flex track.
 


Read the comments, questions and answers in the Railway article. He uses door skin or also known as Luan. This has a fairly soft inner core with very thin outer skins of harder wood but not as hard as the wood in most plywood (look at the close up pictures in the article, second one on page 1). Track spikes (for hand laid) are easy to push into Luan. I have done some experimental track laying on 1/4" thick Luan and found it works very well.
Also due to the soft core the Luan doesn't seem to amplify noise but rather deadens it and is much quieter than flex track nailed directly to 1/2" plywood. Gluing the Luan to the foam should also help in deadening any noise.

I have some Homabed (homasote from Califorinia roadbed) but haven't tried hand laid track on it yet. From what I have read it is easy to insert spikes and holds the spikes well.

I suggest doing test pieces to decide which roadbed material works best for you. I have done 18" long test pieces that I also use to experiment with ballasting and weathering techniques then use them for test tracks, display and photographing.
 
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