ModelRailroadForums.com is a free Model Railroad Discussion Forum and photo gallery. We cover all scales and sizes of model railroads. Online since 2002, it's one of the oldest and largest model railroad forums on the web. Whether you're a master model railroader or just getting started, you'll find something of interest here.
I shot another video with a nice flashlight riding along behind the camera. It helped the lighting aspect, but still having a sound conversion issue when getting it out of .AVI.
Not really sure how much more I am going to muck around with it. I'm only out 5 bucks, so I'm not upset. Just slightly disappointed.
G'day...I can help on this...Go to EBAY...Look up Keychain Cameras..and find one for $20-50 range and you will find it is small enough to fit on top of pretty much all locos or even with N Scale it'll fit on a flatcar being pushed by a loco or a rear view if pulled...Mine was $24 and so long as you have decent light you'll be amazed by the clarity...Mine looks like a car security keypad ..EBAY has millions of them.. Go pro's etc are amazing but you could buy a few keychain cameras for the price of one Go Pro Cheers Rod..
When you shoot from different perspectives then edit the footage together it makes a pretty cool video. I shot this video at the Greenberg show at Chantilly this past weekend. This was on the Potomac Modular Crew layout that was right up front near the entry doors of the exhibit hall.
I just let the camera run then edited away the footage of when I was moving the camera to different positions.
Editing video now is software reliant. In other words, the better the software package, the easier you can edit video. Your computer will have a big effect on the efficiency of editing as well. To do a simple dissolve transition from one video clip to the next takes a good processor or rather two of them to handle the data flow. In high quality video, your processing individual picture files in excess of 2mbs. Now ramp that up to processing 15 -29 pictures per second and you are just handling a simple video stream. When ya do a transition from one video to another, you're handling almost 60 pictures per second by fading one video out while fading the next one in, or in other words adjusting the transparency of each one frame at a time. Now if you want to do a more tricky transition, i.e. have the front picture frame tumble away with the next video running behind it, your processor has to re-size the tumbling video clip along with the aspect configuration, i.e. angle that you're looking at it.
Thanks Sherrel - Lotsa jiggling. I should have waited to have someone around to operate the camera while I did the switching. I was going to pick and drop a couple of more cars, but trying to keep the camera pointed at the train, operate the throttle and trying to throw switches all at the same time was a bit of a problem, plus I was dealing with some dirty track. I hadn't operated on these sidings in months with my remodeling projects going on.
Ken - I imagine if I took the time to explore the Cannon program that came with the camcorder that there is probably an easy way to edit, but I have not had the time to do it. I haven't even had time to run trains. I hate to say that I'm looking forward to winter, but this year I am so renovation projects can be suspended.
I've been testing out this type of camera for N-Scale. Since they are inexpensive, I picked up a couple. The only trouble with this style is you need to change the lens position (not difficult at all) and let the ribbon-wire and lens come out the top. But the instructions are written in ChEnglish and hard to decipher. There are many available from $15-$25 or so. I think the are all the same. They are slightly wider than an N flat car. It might work OK for HO without the lens change. Needs an SD card.
The MUVI-Pro looks identical but is heavier, with instructions in real English. I haven't messed with it yet but I think the design is identical -- just better made.
