RETIRED GUY PROJECTS

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Yeah, the sugar cubes are only 1W. I don't play them loud, so I am not worried about it.

Do you know if there is a way to delay the locomotive from moving for a few seconds so that the sound can play first? Also, my loco starts moving quickly at speed step 1. My digitrax decoder could adjust the starting voltage so that it doesn't jack rabbit out of the hole.
 
Well, with Blunami the sound of an idling loco begins as soon as I switch on track power, even if the app is off, actually even when my smartphone is switched off !
In my case it is close to 14V, the layout is DC powered.
It's sometimes annoying when there are 6 or 7 locos on the tracks. So after connecting and loading the datas I mute them one by one.
Same thing after disconnecting the locos and closing the app, locos keep idling until I switch off the power. Even a bit longer because the current keepers.
Concerning the starting speed, with Blunami, I can adjust the momentum for starting and stopping, so whatever the speed chosen the loco obeys to the adjustments and the prime mover sound reacts accordinally.
 


Yeah, I think that's the same with all Soundtraxx. As soon as I place power on, the sound starts. My Athearn Consolidation does the same thing.

I figured out how to lower the start voltage - I lowered the trim settings. I also sent a message to Soundtraxx for the starting delay. Hope that it is possible. My Consolidation also starts moving before the sound starts, but it is so slow that it isn't that bad.
 
Kusojiji said:
Yeah, I think that's the same with all Soundtraxx. As soon as I place power on, the sound starts. My Athearn Consolidation does the same thing.

I figured out how to lower the start voltage - I lowered the trim settings. I also sent a message to Soundtraxx for the starting delay. Hope that it is possible. My Consolidation also starts moving before the sound starts, but it is so slow that it isn't that bad.
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Normally the sound should be working before you even decide to start moving, just idling. As soon as you release the brakes and press step 1 the rpms increase progressively.
 


Frenchie said:
That is actually in my case : 28W.

2A × 14V = 28 W
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I guess I am myself confused, the 2A is the current rating.
Kusojiji you're correct concerning the 2W the amplifier sends to the speaker.
Hence the safety measure when using 1W speakers : lowering the volume.
After testing, 30% of the volume is definitely enough and comfortable to the ears.
Sounds overwhelming the room are a real pain.
 
Frenchie said:
To avoid confusion, in a previous post (499)
I mentioned 2A delivered by the decoder amplifier, not 2W.
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I didn't even catch that. My mind is automatically set to register watts and not amps when it comes to speaker rating. But, it is 2 watts and not 2 amps. 2 amps through a speaker would fry it in milliseconds. The whole decoder is rated for 2 amps.

edit: I wrote this in response to your earlier post. Then I scrolled down and saw the one immediately above.
 
I wrote to Soundtraxx about the speed and sound and he wrote me a book. I will have to decipher it and give it a try. From first glance, he didn't mention the trim, so I will be putting that back to default 128. I'll post my findings later. Still trying to wake up.
 
So, Soundtraxx CV216 is the key. Delay movement by a few speed steps to allow the motor sound to rev up. Default is 0. I played around with it and found that with a value of 1, it still moved. Value of 2, same. 3 resulted in a delay, but with my speed curve, it didn't want to move very much. It took a lot of tweaking of the speed curve and the accel/decel rates to get it to respond the way I think it should. I might want to have the motor rev up more, though, let me know what you think. zipped up a video. This is going from stop to 1/4 throttle on JMRI, so the acceleration rate is being relied upon.

So my final settings: CV2 and 3 = 80 (yeah, pretty high), CV216 = 2, and speed curve a straight line from 0 to 135.
STRAIGHT 0 TO 135.jpg
 

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Kusojiji said:
I didn't even catch that. My mind is automatically set to register watts and not amps when it comes to speaker rating. But, it is 2 watts and not 2 amps. 2 amps through a speaker would fry it in milliseconds. The whole decoder is rated for 2 amps.

edit: I wrote this in response to your earlier post. Then I scrolled down and saw the one immediately above.
Click to expand...
Yes, correct. I am so good to bring more confusion when I try to avoid it !
Story of my life...
 
Kusojiji said:
So, Soundtraxx CV216 is the key. Delay movement by a few speed steps to allow the motor sound to rev up. Default is 0. I played around with it and found that with a value of 1, it still moved. Value of 2, same. 3 resulted in a delay, but with my speed curve, it didn't want to move very much. It took a lot of tweaking of the speed curve and the accel/decel rates to get it to respond the way I think it should. I might want to have the motor rev up more, though, let me know what you think. zipped up a video. This is going from stop to 1/4 throttle on JMRI, so the acceleration rate is being relied upon.

So my final settings: CV2 and 3 = 80 (yeah, pretty high), CV216 = 2, and speed curve a straight line from 0 to 135.
View attachment 276200
Click to expand...
Well I can't help much, I am lost and, as you know, JMRI is all greek to me.
In fact with the Blunami control app I can rev up or down the engine sound from zero to notch 8 and back without having the loco moving.
I just use the "rpm +" or "rpm -" functions which are on the control screen.
When getting back down all the way you hear the engine complete stopping sequence, which is very cool.
Same thing for the complete starting sequence. I especially love the sound of a GE motor starting, wow !.
And naturally you may use those two functions to manually notch up or down the engine sound while you drive a train.
 
Here are photos of the screen with the functions F0 to F14 and F15 to F28. Sorry for the terrible quality, shot on the computer screen.

Now F 14 is no more "momentum on" but "half speed" which I never use.
 

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