RETIRED GUY PROJECTS

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DeaconKC said:
Since you are able to modify the design, could you make the roof a separate piece and print it vertically?
Click to expand...
That would make it more prone to needing more supports to keep it upright. I have done long thin roofs before and they wobble and shake even at slow print speeds. I try to minimize adding supports as they tend to make the print ragged. The pieces are only about 1mm thick. I had to reduce the entire model down to 75% as it was too big to be HO. My factory stuff are about 30mm wide. This thing was 40.
 
Got the headlight soldered up with the stay alive and anti-reversion circuit.
MOTOR BOGIE WIRED.jpeg

MOTOR BOGIE WIRED TOP.jpeg

CHASSIS ASSEMBLED.jpeg


Need to get black paint on the boiler and exhaust pipe. Also need to touchup the motor bogie stuff that I clearanced. Ended up I didn't need to do that after all.

Used a 2.2K resistor, 470uF 16v cap and diode. This thing starts rolling a little above 3vdc and the light comes on a little above that. And not bright at all, so it looks fine for now.
 


Thanks! I just found that the motor bogie may work for that diesel shunter kit that I have parked right behind my 3d printed dude. I may get another kit since I have 4 more of these motor bogies coming in July.
 
I used a .1 print height, so it is a 20 ft'r. I'm going to test my luck and try .06 at the same speed. May take 10 hours to print.

Running it last night, I found that I forgot to seal the back end of the LED, so I had a nice glow coming through the body. So pry the body off and put some blue tac on. The cab was designed with mounting tabs, so it'll just pop off.

Let's see, what's next? I found that the LEDs on my tram are still good but don't light. Must be a poor solder connection, so will have to go chase that down.
 


RAPIDO LION FIREBOX

Got this in a couple of weeks ago. (Didn't seem that long ago actually.) And it has been running sweetly. I like the sound effects and it is slowly corrupting me to the dark side of the force.
LOCO BACKDROP.JPG


Since it has a coal shoveling sound, it naturally should have a firebox flicker effect. So, figured out how to remove the body, which happens to be all metal.
BODY OFF LIT.JPG


The firebox has four holes that I will drill a bit larger.
FIREBOX HOLES.JPG


And a corresponding slot in the chassis that an LED will be placed. The slot goes down into the keeper plate area where the connection to the tender is. The limiting resistor will probably have to go into the tender where the decoder is.
SLOT FOR LED SM.jpg


The connector to the tender is a 6 pin, which Rapido was nice enough to leave two spares for me to use.
TENDER CONNECTOR.jpg


MTF.
 
Kusojiji said:
RAPIDO LION FIREBOX

Got this in a couple of weeks ago. (Didn't seem that long ago actually.) And it has been running sweetly. I like the sound effects and it is slowly corrupting me to the dark side of the force.
View attachment 267887

Since it has a coal shoveling sound, it naturally should have a firebox flicker effect. So, figured out how to remove the body, which happens to be all metal.
View attachment 267888

The firebox has four holes that I will drill a bit larger.
View attachment 267889

And a corresponding slot in the chassis that an LED will be placed. The slot goes down into the keeper plate area where the connection to the tender is. The limiting resistor will probably have to go into the tender where the decoder is.
View attachment 267891

The connector to the tender is a 6 pin, which Rapido was nice enough to leave two spares for me to use.
View attachment 267892

MTF.
Click to expand...
Beautiful !
 
Got the tender apart. Comes with four tabs you have to try to overcome. I trimmed the tabs a bit to make it easier next time.
TENDER TABS RELIEVED.JPG



One screw holding the connector to the housing. Had to relieve some of the housing for the wire to run through.
TENDER CONNECTOR PADS.JPG

NOTCHED.jpeg


Then soldered the wires to the unused pins.
SOLDERED TENDER CONNECTOR.jpeg


And ran into the tender.
WIRE INTO TENDER.jpeg


Next is to solder a resistor to the white wire and connect to the available FoF and U tabs on the board.
PADS ON BOARD.jpeg


Mapping will be for the FoF, normally used for the headlamp, to be attached to the firebox sound. I forget which function its on.
 
Now that the site's back up...

Got the LED for the firebox installed on the loco connector.
LOCO CONNECTOR.jpeg

LED INSTALLED.jpeg


Had to make sure that I have the polarity correct. POS on the bottom to match the blue wire (POS) on the bottom on the tender connector.

Had a hell of a time getting the bottom plate back on and getting the LED through the hole, but finally got it done.
LED LOCATION.jpeg


Ran some continuity tests on the connector to make sure I don't have anything shorted. Applied some power to the two center leads and got the LED to light up, so that's all good.

Next up is to finish up the tender side with the resistor and connecting to the board.

Trying not to handle the body anymore since I am always dropping it. The two rod things on the top are soft plastic and I already cracked the paint off one of them. So, will test everything with the body off.

MTF.
 


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