RETIRED GUY PROJECTS

ModelRailroadForums.com is a free Model Railroad Discussion Forum and photo gallery. We cover all scales and sizes of model railroads. Online since 2002, it's one of the oldest and largest model railroad forums on the web. Whether you're a master model railroader or just getting started, you'll find something of interest here.


MO 510 TRAM DUN

Got the peoples installed. Included a mother and child up front, driver and a dude standing by the door.
PEOPLES.jpeg

MOTHER.jpeg

STANDING DUDE.jpeg

RIDERS.jpeg
 
BRASS TRAM TROLLEY

Well, moving fwd whether the paint sticks or not. Last attempt made and it is still rubbing off. This may be the last brass model.

Anyway, glued the roof parts together.
ROOF ASSY.JPG


And put the interior inserts in for the windows and the door. And gooped the roof ends on. Goop is good as it remains pliable.
BODY W HIGHLIGHTS.JPG

WIDOW HIGHLIGHTS.JPG


Then it was time to work out the cabin lighting, so I used a left over piece of light strip and added a stay alive and bridge rectifier.
CABIN LIGHT PARTS.JPG

CABIN LIGHT ASSY.JPG


I added a 4.7K resistor to dim the lights down.
CABIN LIGHT TEST.JPG


The stay alive lasts about 27 seconds. It's about 460uF.
STAY ALIVE TEST.JPG


And in an effort to be able to take the body off the chassis, I added brass risers to suspend the cabin lights and also provide the power. There are holes in the ceiling for the stay alive to fit into.
BRASS RISER HEIGHT.jpeg


I'll give all the parts a clear coat spray to see if it helps keep the paint on.
 
Well, the seats I bought don't fit, or would take too much surgery to make it fit. So, using the dimensions of the seat back and seat pad, I am printing out my own. The indent is for the motor mount. It'll be brown, so I won't have to paint it.
TRAM SEATS.jpg
 


Finishing up the driver station. Decided to move the control stand to the right side and use it to provide backing for that tail lamp led. Got out my grinder bit and made a channel for the wires and LED to hide behind. Not worried about the headlight wires and not seeing any bleed into the cab from the headlights.
LED WIRES.JPG

CONTROL STAND CLEARANCED.JPG

CONTROL STAND COVER.JPG


Then it was on to the brake levers.
BRAKE LEVERS.JPG

DRIVER CAB.JPG


And found a driver dude with his hands in the correct positions (close enough).
DRIVER DUDE.JPG


MTF.
 
Well, was in full assembly for testing and subsequently blew both LEDs on one end. I guess I had one LED shorted to the chassis and it bypassed the resistor. I must've been pushing my luck with the drilled holes as I thought I had bevelled them enough, so I took my drill bits out again and did more.
TOP BEVEL.jpeg

BOTTOM BEVEL.jpeg


Put some wires through and it feels smooth enough, so starting again on this side. Hope I get the wire polarities correct as I had forgotten to snap a shot before disassembly.
 
Well, I replaced the LEDs and blew up the tail lamp again. I think it was the control stand touching the back of the LED, so I ground it out more. I put some bluetack on the back and glued the control stand back on. Continuity checks were good, so I soldered it all up and gave it a test with the body on.
TRAM LIT.JPG

TRAM LIT REAR.JPG


Body is just sitting on the chassis, so still need to tweak it all in. I need to get some pax in before I secure it all together.

The kit comes with window rails but not sure if I'm going to add them or not. Clearer shot of the pax without them.

Slowly coming together.
 
I just found out that they sell pogo pins on the jungle site. This will solve my desire to make body removal a lot easier without wires hanging all over the place.
POGO PINS.jpg
 


Starting another project, a J70 tram. I bought a couple of these Kato motor bogies for an EF81 for such projects as they run perfectly. They're the same as the P42 motor bogies, but with different wheels and side accoutrements.
EF81 MOTOR BOGY.JPG


Just had to trim some of the side stuff off so that it would fit.
MODIFIED BOGY.JPG


Found the 3d files on thingiverse and am now modifying them to my needs. The skirt part needed to be clearanced for the kadee couplers and I'll need to make a mount for the coupler box to sit on. Luckily, the power tabs on the bogy just fits within the slot
SKIRT ON BOGY.JPG
.
BODY PREFITTED.JPG


Drew up a motor case/boiler in tinkercad to hide the bogy. Getting used to the way this works, but still prefer sketchup.
J70 MOTOR CASE.jpg


This part is currently printing.

MTF.
 
Took 3 attempts to print the motor cover as it kept on dislodging from the heatbed and making spaghetti. Ended up having to add supports to help plant everything more solidly.
BOILER.JPG


Test fitting.
SIDE VIEW.JPG


The two blocks on the side are for the kadee boxes. Will be gluing them in and get the kadees mounted. Will check gauging for height.

Currently have another roof printing with black stack and a steam pipe manifold that I had to add.

MTF.
 
Roof printed and steam pipe cut from one of those fat paper clips. Then painted it bronze. Also printed out a bell and painted it gold.
PAPER CLIP.jpeg

STEAM PIPE BELL.jpeg


Printed out the buffers that was included with the design. Came out pretty good, so I used them. Painted and mounted.
BUFFERS.jpeg


I'm trying something new with the lighting by using diodes to keep the backwards going lamp from flickering on dirty track. Testing on a roller has been promising.

What's left is soldering in the LEDs which are mounted, and final assembly. This came with a handrail bend jig and already has the holes in the body for them. That'll come later as I don't have that gauge wire for it.
 
I also genned up some works plates. Will print them out as soon as my red filament completes drying. Haven't used it in a while. They're kinda small, so hope they come out. Doing two colors - red and white. Would like silver but I don't have silver filament. May just use a sharpie later.
WORKS PLATES.jpg
 


Got my new D51 498 for the Orient Express train in today and after a brief running to make sure all was well, I immediately went in and installed the tail lamp. Kato wants more money to equip this. Who knows, maybe they stole my idea?
RIGHT FRONT.JPG


Same as my C62, just disassemble the tender, put a 2K resistor on a warm white LED and aluminum tape it all in. I finally got the polarity correct on the first time! I should go play the lottery!
TAIL LAMP LENSE.jpeg

PARTS.jpeg

INSTALLED.jpeg

TAIL LAMP LIT.jpeg
 




Affiliate Disclosure: We may receive a commision from some of the links and ads shown on this website (Learn More Here)

Back
Top