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RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
MO 510 TRAM DUN
Got the peoples installed. Included a mother and child up front, driver and a dude standing by the door.
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
BRASS TRAM TROLLEY
Well, moving fwd whether the paint sticks or not. Last attempt made and it is still rubbing off. This may be the last brass model.
Anyway, glued the roof parts together.
And put the interior inserts in for the windows and the door. And gooped the roof ends on. Goop is good as it remains pliable.
Then it was time to work out the cabin lighting, so I used a left over piece of light strip and added a stay alive and bridge rectifier.
I added a 4.7K resistor to dim the lights down.
The stay alive lasts about 27 seconds. It's about 460uF.
And in an effort to be able to take the body off the chassis, I added brass risers to suspend the cabin lights and also provide the power. There are holes in the ceiling for the stay alive to fit into.
I'll give all the parts a clear coat spray to see if it helps keep the paint on.
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Well, the seats I bought don't fit, or would take too much surgery to make it fit. So, using the dimensions of the seat back and seat pad, I am printing out my own. The indent is for the motor mount. It'll be brown, so I won't have to paint it.
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Seats printed out and installed.
LEDs installed and front fascia glued to the porch.
I need to print out a destination sign for that little window at the top. Not sure what I want to put there. Maybe 横須賀 which is where I live.
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Printed out some destinations and glued them in. This is the Yokosuka - Yokohama line.
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Finishing up the driver station. Decided to move the control stand to the right side and use it to provide backing for that tail lamp led. Got out my grinder bit and made a channel for the wires and LED to hide behind. Not worried about the headlight wires and not seeing any bleed into the cab from the headlights.
Then it was on to the brake levers.
And found a driver dude with his hands in the correct positions (close enough).
MTF.
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Well, was in full assembly for testing and subsequently blew both LEDs on one end. I guess I had one LED shorted to the chassis and it bypassed the resistor. I must've been pushing my luck with the drilled holes as I thought I had bevelled them enough, so I took my drill bits out again and did more.
Put some wires through and it feels smooth enough, so starting again on this side. Hope I get the wire polarities correct as I had forgotten to snap a shot before disassembly.
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Or, it may have been the raw metal inside the headlamp. I put a layer of paint inside it this time and will make sure to do a continuity check after the LED is installed. Might've gotten lucky with the other side.
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Well, I replaced the LEDs and blew up the tail lamp again. I think it was the control stand touching the back of the LED, so I ground it out more. I put some bluetack on the back and glued the control stand back on. Continuity checks were good, so I soldered it all up and gave it a test with the body on.
Body is just sitting on the chassis, so still need to tweak it all in. I need to get some pax in before I secure it all together.
The kit comes with window rails but not sure if I'm going to add them or not. Clearer shot of the pax without them.
Slowly coming together.
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
I just found out that they sell pogo pins on the jungle site. This will solve my desire to make body removal a lot easier without wires hanging all over the place.
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
After searching for the correct size pogo pins, I gave up and made my own. Double sided tape for insulation and placement, strategic bends and tape to keep the runners from touching each other. Works in testing, we'll see how it stands up after a while.
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Starting another project, a J70 tram. I bought a couple of these Kato motor bogies for an EF81 for such projects as they run perfectly. They're the same as the P42 motor bogies, but with different wheels and side accoutrements.
Just had to trim some of the side stuff off so that it would fit.
Found the 3d files on thingiverse and am now modifying them to my needs. The skirt part needed to be clearanced for the kadee couplers and I'll need to make a mount for the coupler box to sit on. Luckily, the power tabs on the bogy just fits within the slot
.
Drew up a motor case/boiler in tinkercad to hide the bogy. Getting used to the way this works, but still prefer sketchup.
This part is currently printing.
MTF.
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Took 3 attempts to print the motor cover as it kept on dislodging from the heatbed and making spaghetti. Ended up having to add supports to help plant everything more solidly.
Test fitting.
The two blocks on the side are for the kadee boxes. Will be gluing them in and get the kadees mounted. Will check gauging for height.
Currently have another roof printing with black stack and a steam pipe manifold that I had to add.
MTF.
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Roof printed and steam pipe cut from one of those fat paper clips. Then painted it bronze. Also printed out a bell and painted it gold.
Printed out the buffers that was included with the design. Came out pretty good, so I used them. Painted and mounted.
I'm trying something new with the lighting by using diodes to keep the backwards going lamp from flickering on dirty track. Testing on a roller has been promising.
What's left is soldering in the LEDs which are mounted, and final assembly. This came with a handrail bend jig and already has the holes in the body for them. That'll come later as I don't have that gauge wire for it.
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
LEDs connected and British Rails Lion decal applied to the side. Test run on the rolling road and it runs very nicely. This power bogie is very nice and I have 4 more coming in July.
Weighs in at 90 grams and should be able to pull quite a few cars. Will be running on the rails tonight.
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
I also genned up some works plates. Will print them out as soon as my red filament completes drying. Haven't used it in a while. They're kinda small, so hope they come out. Doing two colors - red and white. Would like silver but I don't have silver filament. May just use a sharpie later.
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Printed and installed.
4 of 5 made it. #5 ended up a mess. Glad I made more than just the two I needed.
Your work is totally amazing Kusojiji, I am impressed, sincerely.
And also, I probably don't have 25% of your tools.
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Thanks! I put a lot of miles on my 3d printer. I was going to make a Mr. Roger's trolley, but after taking a few measurements, my power bogie is way too short in wheelbase.
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Got my new D51 498 for the Orient Express train in today and after a brief running to make sure all was well, I immediately went in and installed the tail lamp. Kato wants more money to equip this. Who knows, maybe they stole my idea?
Same as my C62, just disassemble the tender, put a 2K resistor on a warm white LED and aluminum tape it all in. I finally got the polarity correct on the first time! I should go play the lottery!
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